I want to be able to cut the battery voltage down on the batteries I use on my inflatable…so I can get a really really slow speed/troll.
Does anyone know where I can get one or a particular one to get?
Using a 30# thrust MinnKota…
Not sure, but you might try an interior light dimmer rheostat out of a car/truck. Jim
Duck:
A trolling motor is DC. If you reduce voltage directly you also reduce torque which may not be beneficial in a trolling motor application and may damage the motor. You need some type of speed controller, possibly what is referred to as a pulse width controller.
If I was you, I’d call MinnKota.
I’d be willing to be someone makes a speed control for that situation.
A car dimmer switch is usually just a spring in a ceramic holder. anything over about 5 amps will just burn out the spring. (Ask me sometime, I’ll tell you how I know. 
)
If I remember correctly, and it’s been a few years, motors, in general, don’t respond well to rheostats, and it’s worse with DC than AC.
What may possibly work is to put a large resistor in a separate cable connection at the battery. One drawback to a large resistor is very high heat. May not be workable on a rubber bladdered boat. Just sayin’.
Good luck in your quest.
Kirk
BTW, if you know any electrical engineers, they may can point you in the right direction.
Over the weekend I did some research and indeed, Bam, the pwc seems the way to go…an interesting technology and is what Minn Kota uses in their current variable speed motors .
And I took your advice and called Minn Kota today…they, several years ago, came out with what was called the Maximizer which was used to vary the speeds…they no longer make it…[I suppose because they incorporated it into their motors]…other than finding one of those they didn’t have much to offer…
Anyone have a Maximizer they want to sell???
BBW …you’d think there would be…
crazy…thanks for the reply …I didn’t see it before…pretty sure you are correct about the AC and DC thing…and the motor thing unless you are dealing with something like a sewing machine motor…
Ducks, they don’t make the Maximizer anymore, it’s now the Traxxis. I think it’s the same thing as the Maximizer for about $75 more. FG has a Maximizer and it does save on battery draw down quite a bit.
I made an adjustable trolling plate that inhibits the thrust. On the motor shaft: 1/2 inch saddle tee. (for sprinkling system) From saddle tee: 1/2 X12" plastic pipe (threaded). From pipe: 1/2 Elbow. From Elbow: 1/2" X 12" plastic pipe (threaded). From a plastic cutting board or plexiglass, cut a piece about 8" square, drill a couple of holes, and bolt it to the second plastic pipe, so that it fits in front of the prop. Leave the pipes loose enough in the fittings so that it will swing up 180 degrees, out of the way when you want to run. You can also turn the plate so that it won’t impede the prop if it hangs into the water.
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m220/2boomers/lastscan.jpg
Duck:
I found this info on a crappie thread. There is even a schematic posted if you are so inclined.
If I was you I would peruse the conventional bass & crappie fishing boards. Those boys know their trolling motors!
Good luck!
these will get you a really slow trolling speed
http://www.forcefin.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FT
;)
So true, Norm, but I hate wearing those things…and you know what?..I haven’t had a cramp since I started leaving them on the bank;).
Lew…I’m always running in reverse so I’m thinking that wouldn’t work…also coming into shore is an issue…the craft is basically a glorified float tube…
Boy, I know where you’ve been hanging out PCV Boy!
Good idea Lew.
What do you mean when you say you’re running in reverse? In my Navi, I had the motor turned- pulling me- and a remote control box. Originally years ago, I just turned the control head 180?. I face rearward and had the motor pull me. When I headed into shore just before I got there, I pulled the motor up and at an angle to lock it in, and using my fins just kicked around 180?. By that time I was in knee deep or less water. Pulling up the motor would cause interference with Lewie’s troll plate though. With the zipper, you’re limited to what you can do.
I’m not sure, but would a smaller prop slow your speed down?
Mojo…I gotta ask …are you FG’s “old man”?
I just mount the motor on the metal plate with the handle forward so I can adjust it…without a remote I’d think I have to do it that way…I pretty much “straight line” it…and control direction with my feet [no fins]…my waters are pretty mild.
So like finning the motor propellers me backwards…I have it in reverse…
I handle beaching pretty much as you describe…
Since I quit using fins I always take the oars…
I have indeed changed to a smaller prop and have yet to test it but Minn Kota told me it wouldn’t make a difference because the pitch is the same …but it seems to me since it is smaller it should be slower???
I have my motor mounted in front of me on my boat. It necessitates landing fish on the side, but it makes handling the motor real convenient, and coming into shore isn’t a problem. Just tilt the motor up.
Perhaps a picture will demo what we are talking about…
Yes to your first question.
Have you thought about removing the head and turning it 180? and let it pull you. It’s easier when you’re going backwards. That way you have 5 speeds. I’m not sure if Reverse 1st is a different rpm than Forward 1st. Maybe I ought to take a strobe and find out eh?
And in my findings years ago, the boat handles better that way and if you want to troll, or just motor, cast and strip it works great. I think too, if you start using your fins again, the drag may slow you down a little more.
I think MinnKota is right, with the same pitch, it might not change anything.
If someone could build a jig, heat up the blades on the prop (changing the pitch) it would be trick.