Does any one have a sure-fired way to removing ghosting? I am building a banty out of the tip and mid of a bamboo rod I picked up and the guide spacing will be different.
TIA
Brad
Brad, Im watching this post with bated breath. The way I dealt with the ghosts was wrap intermediates. Hopefully Leo or October Woods will chime in
i don’t know what all the other guys have done but on all of the banties I have built I have used some really fine sand paper, i.e. 400 grit or finer (prfer 800 or finer though if I’m gonna save the finish that is already on the rod). I’m sure there are easier and faster ways but that is the way I do it.
Steve
Actually, I haven’t really found a foolproof method for complete removal of ghosting. There probably is one but I haven’t found it yet. I have tried the sanding but the problem is that the UV that caused the ghosting in the first place, has changed the fibers at a greater depth than I like to sand to. I did follow a thread a few years ago that led me to use a product called Trans-Tint. by using trans-tint, diluted (dilutes with alcohol or water) to the right depth of color as the adjacent areas, I have been somewhat able to get a more uniform color to cover and conceal ghosting from wraps. What is even worse to deal with are the black marks left by guides that have rusted and left the bamboo really dark where the guide feet were, these, too, don’t sand out very well, and I am reluctant to go deep enough to remove them for fear of removing too much power fiber.
Hopefully, Bob or some other makers will jump in with their thoughts on ghosting and either removal or concealing them…
Leo
I may be a bit obtuse, but why would you want to remove all the ghosting? The rod has a history, why wouldn’t you want to remember that and have that included in its future? :?
Betty
I just want it to look pretty 8) 8) 8) 8)
Brad
Cane Browntoner. This is a product sold by Jeff Fultz at http://www.fultzrods.com. I have never used the chemical, but a gentleman I know here in Mountain Home, who does just like you’re doing, makes Banty rods out of older 3 piece trade rods, uses it and I’ve seen the results. He says you can wipe the stuff on, just as described on Jeff’s website, and wipe it off quickly several times to get the coloration you want. If you have really bad witness marks from wraps, then wipe it on, leave it on for a minute or so, then you have a very nice, evenly toned, dark brown rod, almost looks like the perfect flaming job… maybe a better description is a very dark ammonia toning job. Regardless, even though I’ve not used the product, I’ve seen the results on Mike’s rods and I was VERY impressed.
Later,
Bob
Thanks for all the replys. I think I’ll try the Fultz product and report back.
Brad
Well I haven’t done this but I’m wondering if Kilz or a similar product applied over the effected areas then stain applied the wiped off quickly till the desired color is achieved would work? I’ve used Kilz and products like it to ‘block’ stains on wood prior to painting. A thought.
Cheers,
MontanaMoose
I know some guys who use wood bleach on the dark spots. Some mix pool clorine shock to a stong solutin and use that. I’ve heard H2O2 works
I’ve tried benzoil peroxide from the dermatologist with some luck.