Its pretty obvious that the green Mucilin is silicone. That is stated on most all of the websites that I have found. However, so far, none of them I have seen have offered an explanation of what red Mucilin is composed of?!
There are a number of sites that state that only red ought to be used on silk fly lines (not an issue for me but a point of question) and a number of folks have stated to only use the red on furled leaders, again there is no explanation forthcoming.
Hoping that someone can enlighten this grasshopper
Robin,
I am anxious to hear as well. I used the green tin last year…dropped out of my shirt pocket & when I found it, was melted. Since I heard that melting ruined it, I disposed of it. This year, I bought the red tin as I see it is more highly recommended, but I really don’t know WHY. Maybe we’ll both learn something?
Mikey
I noticed that the majority on this site say Green, but on the Europian sites they say Red (the original) so that is what I use on my furled. Never tried it on my lines, never need to.
OK - Now you have me wondering what the difference is and I do not even use it
Here is what I have found out:
Mucilin - is not in my dictionary
One quoted find - “A thick waxy paste that liquefies to the touch. It is an ancient formula that works both as a line and dry fly dressing. Temperature sensitive and harder to handle than silicone gels, but still very popular. Safe for all non self lubricating fly lines. Was originally formulated for silk lines. Works well with all kinds of dry flies. Comes in a hard plastic container with removable lid and line cleaning pad.”
On another site: “Red Mucilin. There is no substitute, proven for decades. Greases lines as well as flies. A must have for the silk line angler Caution: DO NOT use on plastic lines”
Green Mucilin - on another site: “This paste blend of Silicone and Mucilin is an efficient water repellent”
So, I guess the Green Mucilin is Red Mucilin with Silicon blended into it. This still does not tell us what Red Mucilin is. (Secret formula)
Another interesting find while looking:
Albolene is a cosmetic cream for dry skin and can be purchased rather easily and works well as a fly/line dressing!
I still did not answer your question, but, I sure had fun trying!
Robin
From what I understand, the silicone in the green will cause problems re finishing a bamboo rod if it is needed. As far as the formulation goes…you are on your own.
Brad
Re: the Albolene…I’ve used it for years…but I’m not sure about it = Gink…rather doubt it.
It’s temperature sensitive…that is it will melt in heat…lighter fluid does thin it …in fact I carry it not only solid but in liquid form…frequently will dip the fly to start the day…lighter fluid evaporates rapidly…also dip the fly after desliming and cleaning.
There is another solvent for it but can’t remember right now.
So far the lighter fluid hasn’t been a problem…
In fact, if I want to make a really , really , really long cast I just light a match to the tail of the fly and point it in the right direction…[G]
All I’ve ever used is the red, and that goes back to my orginal days with silk line. Seldom have I seen the green on the shelves, mostly it’s been red.
But I’m curious as to Ohiotuber’s post as well … what would melting do that would render the concoction useless? I ask because all these type products become soft in a summer’s warm day, especially when left in the car or in a tackle box in the boat. Now I could possibly understand if it were to be heated on a stove to a boiling point that it might change properties, but just getting soft and melting in the heat of the day, I don’t understand. Now I say all this as my red “stuff” has melted in the tackle box but after coolong has went back like it was and I’ve continued to use it and it seems like the same 'ol same 'ol.
Sorta on topic…icw dressings and Gink. Never used a sinking treatment on a fly before. Bought some Xink? Zink?..whatever it is. One day decided to try it. It says once you apply this to your fly you will NEVER have to use a weight again. That crap is the best floatant I ever saw! I am on my stream and have to jerk the fly four times to even get it to go under water. By then the drift is totally ruined and over with. I have heard that they are known to mis-label their products. Just FYI on buying dressings.
I really do not remember, but I either was told, or read somewhere that melting ruined mucilin. I’m pleased to hear that I was misinformed, but could kick myself for disposing of that tin which was almost new.
Mikey
I always thought red was animal fat. I think Gierach alluded to that in Fishing Bamboo, but i can’t think of where else I heard it before that. made sense so I never questioned it and just assumed it was
“The more widely one observes nature, the more it appeals to one’s soul. Why? Because there is a music there; and the wider one’s outlook on life becomes, the deeper one’s understanding of life, the more music one can listen to, the music that
answers the whole universe.” --Inayat Khan
Mucilin Red is not deer fat, all the old writers condemn the use of deer fat and other animal fats – not only rancidity problems, but animal problems as well (do you want critters munching your silk lines while you are napping by streamside and your line is drying in the grass?).
Back in the '40’s there were a lot of dressings sold containing Silicone or “Silicote” (marketing gibberish). I’m sure that many rodmakers were swearing when they tried to revarnish rods with even the smallest amout of silicone on them. The silicone causes “fish-eyes” in the varnish.
W.B. Sturgis in “New Lines for Fly-Fishers” (Derrydale Press, 1946?) describes fishermen using deer fat and condemns it as sticky and likely to gum up the guides. (He also mentions seeing desparate anglers using butter from their sandwiches). He suggests Aspinall’s “Mucilin” which he states is paraffin based.
Sturgis gives this handy formula if you want to make your own:
Proportions by Weight, not volume
Type A Type B
Medicinal Mineral Oil 1.5 parts 2 parts
White Vaseline
(Petroleum Jelly) 1 part 1 part
Paraffin 1 part 1 part
Type A is for normal conditions, type B is for cold conditions.
Best regards,
Reed [url=http://www.overmywaders.com:7dbe9]www.overmywaders.com[/url:7dbe9]
It’s back to the same bit about old vs new and how rarely things stay the same. I recall when “Coke Classic” came out stouting the same as the original. A friend has some old coke in the garage, and we checked the side. Sure enough, “old” and “classic” had different ingredients.
IAMS, when they were bought out by Procter & Gamble, it went through the same change. (My neighbor was cleaning out back of the barn and found a bag of food several years old and compared it to a recent bag.)
What worked in the past, with original formula and different uses, may not work now.
