KB,
Thank you so much for that link. It really helped. The wraps are really looking good…gives me chills when I hold it up to a picture of my brother in his dress blues.
TT.
Particularly for multiple accents, I use the technique where you lay the accent threads longitudinally, do your main wrap over those threads, then do the accents. There is a drawback to this technique, though. With some colors, the accent threads can show through if you do not use CP. What I do to minimize the visibility of this is to lay the accent threads alongside the guide foot before wrapping on the main wrap. This places the accent threads on the bottom of the rod as the person is fishing and they do not see the threads showing through. You also want to make very sure the main wrap is well packed. The better job you do of packing the main wrap, the less show through there will be even without CP. The other option is to use CP. Then the main wrap does not go translucent.
I’ve really tried hard to keep the wraps tight to eachother. I’ve packed them on each one as I wrapped, and as far as I can tell, there aren’t any visible openings at all. With you saying that the wraps will go translucent, I might have to get some PC, it looks so good as is, I don’t know that I want the color changing. I suppose it wouldn’t be the end of the world, but if I can keep it looking close to what it looks like now, I’ll be super happy.
TT.
P.S. Only one and a half guides to do and I’m done with the tip section. Just have to wait for the white acrylic insert for the reel seat to come, send it off to Steve, and as soon as I get it back…I’ll be done in a day and show some pictures.
Jack,
This is not an addiction…I do not have a probelm!!! …Yet.
If you like the colors the way they are AND you did not get NCP thread, you will need to use CP or the colors will darken considerably. If you got NCP thread, you are fine. The colors will not shift enough to worry about.
Thanks, I’ll have to check.
TT
Ok, so I just got the color preserver/thread sealer. If I’m right, it doesn’t replace the flexcoat thread wrap epoxy, I still have to use that after I coat the treads with the color preserver…correct?
And then after I’ve applied it, do I let it dry, or do I have to put the epoxy on right away? My brain tells me that I can let it dry, but I just want to make sure because the directions are a little vague.
Thanks,
TT.
Correcto! It is a separate animal!! It does NOT replace anything. Put it on. Let it dry … THEN apply the finish.
There have been rods I’ve built where I’ve actually done wraps on something else of the same color, and applied diluted coats of the CP, let them dry, then put on the epoxy … as a test to see how much of a color change I wanted to achieve. Fortunately, most of the people in this world are not as freekin’ AR as I am!!
Have fun!! It’s going to be beautiful!!
Hugs!
lol, so what gave you the least color change, the 100% preserver?
TT.
NCP thread with CP. 
then NCP thread, then full strength CP on nylon thread. The differences here are barely discernible and will only make enough difference for the most AR among us. You will be fine with what you are doing.
NCP thread has an odd looking texture to me but I use it when I want colors to be absolutely bright and true, like with a red, white, and blue wrap on a patriotic themed rod. Most other times, the results with full strength CP are just fine.
Of course, now we can explore spirit based CP vs. water based CP, CP on NCP thread, thinned CP, and silk thread. You will get different effects with all. :lol:
When you apply the CP, the thread will darken some. Do not be alarmed. It will lighten up as it dries. Let it dry overnight or at least for several hours before applying a second coat, let dry thoroughly, and apply your finish after both coats are completely dry . If the CP is not completely dry, the finish will cloud.
Because teh CP seals the thread, it will not soak into the tunnels formed by the thread going over the guide feet. Take a toothpick and carefully work a touch of finish in to close off the end of that tunnel. This is where I mean.
Thanks KB. I will definitely do that. I’m glad you told me that the thread will lighten up as it dries. I would’ve probably freaked a little if I hadn’t know that, lol.
I think I’ll get the first coat on tonight, the second tomorrow sometime, and then put the epoxy on early next week.
TT.
Oh wow the fun we could have with THIS one!! That is, if it wasn’t already a known fact! 
However after seeing the pics she has posted of her rod builds, there is definitely something to be said for being AR! But watch out TT there is a fine line between AR and OCD.
I don’t think I’m either, but this is only my firts rod! I’d lean more towards AR. I think if I was OCD I’d wrap the whole blank just to make sure…lol.
TT.
I’ve finally got the first coat of wrap finish on, wow, it looks good.
There are a few pieces of the thread sticking out…little burrs for lack of a better term. How do I get rid of them? I’m guessing I’ll have to get a second coat on to completely cover them once I take them down. Other than that though, it’s looking pretty sharp.
TT.
Um… I guess we forgot to tell you how to burn off the ‘fuzzies’ before applying finish.
Hey Betty, you want to take it from here?
CAREFULLY shave off the offending bits with a razor blade, then apply your second coat of finish. The finish will cover the spot you shave nicely. You will never be able to see it was done.
Hugo;
Adding more coats of epoxy will only make the bumps bigger! You’ll have to shave them off as Keving has explained.
'Nother way … let the epoxy dry completely and use an emory board (the cardboard type) to GENTLY smooth off the fuzzy, and even off the bump. Then, apply another thin coat of finish.
Back to you BB!!
I tried that once, Betty, but my wife about killed me for swiping an emery board. So I took the blade out of her razor instead! :twisted: :lol:
Kevin, Did you get in trouble for NOT putting it back or putting it back coated with epoxy dust?
TT,
For future reference on your next rod. after you wrap the guides, the fuzzies can be burned off EVER so gently by holding the flame (preferably from an alcohol lamp) to the SIDE of the wraps until the fuzzies singe off. Since this is inherently dangerous to burning the thread and especially the rod itself, I would suggest wrapping a dowel rod in several places and practice first. A butane lighter can be used but butane and any candles can leave a black soot which is not too desirable on your rod and thread. Hold the flame out to the side a few inches and slowly bring towards the rod until you see the fuzzies singe.
Speaking from experience, this can change the sheen on metallic thread to a nice dull color. I actually melted a metalic thread once to something flat resembling tinsel. This was obviously a major mistake, but if one can control it you can make different effects with trim wraps.
Put it away?