I have been thinking and I know that is dangerous, but, I have a question about the latest fly rods I see coming out and I need those “in the know” on fly rods to help me out.
I have been looking at 6wt rods for some smallmouth exploring that I intend to do this coming year. Understand that I do not like to use a rod that is heavy “in the hand”. It just takes the enjoyment out of my fishing, but, I also know that a smaller than a 6wt rod would not be enough rod although it would be lighter and more fun. I also would love for the rod to be shorter than 9’ but that may be out of the question. I was looking around on the internet doing research on this and found a company, I will not mention the name so that no “turf” wars start, that is selling a 9’ 6wt rod in a 2 piece and please understand that I do like 2 piece rods over all others. This company states that this 6wt 9’ rod weighs 2.7oz! Now that really stirs my interest!
Now for my question: Most people who are going after larger fish will purchase a rod that is 6wt or larger and will put a bigger reel on it so that they can have more backing in case the larger fish decides to leave the country. This I understand, but, a larger reel will also be heavier than your “normal” trout reel and I am wondering if all the fly rod companies keep making lighter rods, won’t the larger and heavier reels throw the balance of this system off and make fishing with these outfits all day a real pain?
If you check out the latest rods coming out, most are trying to get lighter and lighter and it just seems to me that putting a large arbor heavier reel on them would create a problem. What is everyone’s opinions on this? Am I missing something?
Rods are definitely lighter now, and in general, many of the large arbor reels are lighter than the older reels. I too am a fanatic about fishing with a balanced rod/reel combo. I sugggest you find a rod you really like and buy a reel that balances out your rig. You may even own such a reel. Good luck on your search.
I use 6 and two 8 wt’s for most of my fishing. You don’t put a larger reel on just for (more) backing, an 8wt line is considerably bigger than a 4wt.
If you’re buying a 6wt rod for smallies, why would you want to use a small trout reel in the first place? Most reels are generally sold as 3/4, 5/6, 7/8 wt etc. to be proportionate to the the corresponding rod right?
If you’re looking for a new reel, choose the brand and model you like then buy the appropriate size reel for the line you intend to put on on. It’s fairly safe to say that bass will not take you to the backing.
Physical weight and “in the hand weight” are two different things. That is if you mean casting balance sort of thing. You will never “see” the differences of a rod blank that weighs say 2.7 ounces and one that weighs again…say 3 1/2 ounces. Its the “balance” ( or lack thereof) is what causes your “arm” to get tired. Try picking up a 2 X 4 in the middle…then try it again picking it up from the very end…see the difference?
As far as “line weights” goes…I do 99% of my fishing with a 5 weight rod(s) of various “power”. Bass rods have LOTS of backbone and with it corresponding hook setting power. It takes sharp hooks and plenty of “grunt” to dive a hook into the maxillary plate on a fish like a bass…whereas with trout being “lip hooked” the same “grunt” can easily pull a fine wire fly right thru the lip and the fish is lost.
Not knowing the stream SIZE you intend on fishing I can only comment about the local streams and if yours are similar to mine then an 8 1/2 ft rod / 6 wgt will do you fine. Getting the balance will be the tough part and you may have to borrow some reels ( if yours dont “work” ) with line and backing to get the combo “balanced”. But remember if the blank doesnt have “setting power” it isnt going to work anyway.
I’ve been bass fishing with a fly rod for a long time now.
I’ve never had any bass even get close to putting me on the reel, much less into the backing. Maybe some day, if I can break the 15 pound mark, maybe (but I doubt it).
Bass aren’t runners, so for me, all the reel does is hold the line. I fight the fish with my fingers on the line. So, I use the lightest reel I can find. These are invaribly cheap graphite reels that weigh much less than their metal counterparts. None of my bass reels cost more than $40, and many were under $20.
On the reel question, as had been stated, balance is far more important than weight. My 6 weight is tip heavy, it was an easy fix, put a heavier reel on. The reel I am running on that particular rod weighs a shade over 6 oz. Almost 2oz heavier than the reel I use on my 7 weight. I had planned to use the same reel for both rods with a spare spool, the reel on the 7 was just too light and made the 6 feel like an anchor in the hand. With the heavier reel, the rod fishes and casts like a dream.
I use a 6wt for smallmouth and you do not need a reel with allot of backing. Smallmouth are not long runners. Also with regards to reel weight and balance here is an interesting quote I found.
[LEFT]Let us first rid ourselves of a widespread idea, which I have often had occasion to point out as false or , at least, much exaggerated: the reel does not balance the rod; though in the past when rods were ten feet or more, very long and very heavy, a reel as a counterweight did produce the illusion of balancing the rod in the hand; but it is the line which plays the principal role owing to its weight and the shape of it’s taper. It is indeed, on the line that the rod depends above all for giving its maximum, and yet retaining its balance. The ideal would be to be able to fish with the reel in your pocket! Charle Ritz 1959 [/LEFT]
Ive read that before and still dont believe it. And since fly lines ( within the same weight catagory) are SUPPOSE TO weigh identical in the first 30 feet…taper is immaterial.
If a rod/ reel combo is statically balanced and while going thru the casting MOTION “feels” right to the caster…then pulling out 30 feet of line and having it support so that it doesnt directly impart ANY forces into the rod/reel combo…then the “combo” will feel IDENTICAL…BUT…
The force imparted into the rod/ reel by the MOMENTUM of the line ( hence the moment generated by the line and its speed) can and will cause the FEEL of the rod/ reel to change.
The weight of say a 130 grain line ( which is .3 of an ounce) spred over 30 feet distance isnt going to impart much force at all. In some cases barely enough to make the tip flex!
Very true…but unfortunately the “balance point” of a rod ( no reel…etc) is somewhere FORWARD of the cork grip! I just grabbed a Sage- 9ft-6 wgt I had standing here and its 7 inches fwd on that rod.
Balance is one of those topics that there really is no right or wrong answer too. It is more of a matter of preference that takes into account casting styles and what you do with the rod after the cast and while you are fishing.
I happen to be in favor of the heavy reels usually a few sizes up over the rod I am fishing. I like it where my rod balances in the middle of my hand. It is less taxing for me to use the 10.5 foot rods I like during the cast and after the cast.
There are no hard set rules about how to match your gear to each other. None of the labeling of my gear usually matches each other but to me they are matched for the way I like to fish, the rod , reel, or line. There are things you can do to lighten or weigh your gear down how ever you desire. If you want a lighter reel spend the money and go high tech or save some money down size it a size or two. If you need more backing capacity switch over to the superbraids instead of the dacron.
My opinion: The question of reel and rod balance is processed meat. I go for the lightest reel with the most capacity. In my case, I have two reel frames and six spools of the same make. The spools carry floating lines from 4wt. to 9wt. I I.D. all the lines with the dot dash code at the tip, 30 ft.point, and at the backing connection so I don’t get confused. Life is good.
I fished the old rod and reel rigs that went upwards to a pound and they will wear you out. Go for the lightest with the most generous capacity.
with age. And since I’ve had serious shoulder issues it really matters. The lighter the more fishing I’m able to do. The heavy rods just kill the shoulder and I’m done for the day - sometimes longer. Be kind to yourself and maybe you won’t pay for it later in life.
Go for the lightest with the most generous capacity.