I have never tried the new Veevus threads. I have always used the Uni-threads in 6/0 and 8/0 and along with the Flymaster line of thread and I have been quite satisfied with them all. I do have a large selection of the U-70 threads but I find myself going back to the Uni-Threads. What are the opinion’s of FAOL’s members about the Veevus thread. Thank you. Gordon
I like them.
Currently using 16/0 and haven’t broken a thread yet.
Nice stuff!
Used a cople of spools. The one I have currently feels quite rough. For me the jury is out. I haven’t used all of the range, there may be something I’ll use lurking in there.
One thing I have noticed is that it is expensive. This far I have not noticed anything about this thread that would outweigh the extra cost.
Cheers,
A.
I tied some elk hair in with the 8/0 yesterday - very impressed. Lots of colors.
I’ve almost totally stopped using Uni 8/0 except to finish up my existing stock. I have found MFC 8/0 a thread I’m most comfortable with for all around tying. If I need something finer I agree with Byron Veevus 16/0 is very good. I like a thread that lays flat without having to untwist probably the reason I will not switch to a heavier Veevus. All this is probably because I tied for years with Danville 6/0, and still do for many patterns.
Gene
Love the stuff!! Very strong unless … you happen to hit the point of the hook when you wrap. Good, clean, smooth heads on flies, in limited space, if you happen to crowd the eye.
I have been using Veevus since it first appeared on the U.S. scene…
It is one of the strongest threads I have found and comes in a wide range of sizes and colors…who else makes 16/0 thread in this wide range of colors?
http://veevus.com/thread/8-160-12-different-colors-available.html
PT/TB 
I have been using the Veevus 14/0 for about a year. Quality stuff. I would rank it with Benecchi. Strong, yet easy to split (unlike Uni). I wont throw away my Uni thread, but rarely use it now. I like UTC, but have serious problems being able to use an entire bobbin. I have issues with it being wound over its self on the spool. I keep hearing the problems have been resolved, but still I have problems with it.
The UTC problem was because the spool was made in two parts. The thread tended to pull into the joint and jam. Since they went onto single piece spools I haven’t had the problem. Be careful that you are not buying old stock though.
Cheers,
A.
Yep, that is what I was told. I threw 6 spools away that I bought a few weeks ago. I wont be frequenting the local fly shop anymore.
The UTC thread seems to always fray on me when I am whip finishing, as I pull the last bit through the whip, so I stay away from it. Anybody got a solution for this?
I love the UTC 140 but find the 70 too “flossy” and although I rarely use a whip finish, I think it’s related to your issues; maybe try spinning the bobbin a bit. The MFC 8/0 is my go-to for smaller flies, down to #22s. Veevus looks like good stuff, if a bit pricey.
Regards,
Scott
I had the same problem with the UTC. Spinning it, like Scott said, helped and waxing it before whip finishing helped, but I just don’t use it for finishing off a fly anymore. Only for bodies sometimes now.
Veevus is excellent. I use the 10/0 and the 16/0. Very strong.
Joe
I have been using the Veevus 14/0 and 16/0 and really like it but as others have stated I won’t be getting rid of my Uni or UTC.
Got two spools of the 16/0 to try a few months back, one each black and pale olive.
In my use, it’s an okay-but-not-great thread, and I won’t be buying any more. It’s worked okay for patterns that don’t rely on any tension techniques, but it has caused me more frustration than satisfaction on any fly that even requires as much tension as needed for a hair wing (caddis).
It handles nicely, but I can get just as good handling with superior performance under tension with Uni 8/0 or Sheer 14/0, and since I’m already confident in the Uni 8/0 for all of my sub-#8 patterns (#8 and above get 6/0), and 14/0 for all dries, and anything #16 and smaller, there’s no real reason for me to add the Veevus to the rotation, especially since I have to really baby it to avoid breakage.
EDIT: I use white UTC 70 for the majority of the process for any “fancy” fly I tie, and absolutely as an underbody anywhere floss is required. It’s highly prone to fraying, but there are a few ways to mitigate the overall impact of this. First, keep at least bobbin-weight tension on the thread at all times…low tension lets the filaments spread out on the hook face, and really makes it easy to snap individual filaments, leading to fraying. Second, a bit of beeswax here and there can help keep everything together. Twisting works to keep things tight when you aren’t using it for it’s ability to lay flat (but if I don’t need that particular characteristic, I’m going with a bonded thread like Uni), but the tradeoff is that it’s a bit weaker, and obviously won’t lay as flat.
When you’re ready to whip finish, I use two things to reduce the tendency for fraying at the head of the fly: first and most direct is to tie off the UTC just before the last material is added, hiding the whip finish under a hackle collar, topping, etc. which is added after starting a black bonded thread for the head, and second, try to whip finish with just enough tension to keep the thread from falling off of the tool. It’s really a tricky balance since the Venn diagram between tension that will cause fraying and looseness that will make the thread spread out has very little overlap, but it can be done.
As a workaround to save an already botched head, add a few coats of thinned head cement that will penetrate the thread. Once it’s completely dry, shield the rest of the pattern and use a lighter (in very quick passes) to singe off stray fibers, then hit hit it with a few coats of black lacquer, and finish with a clear topcoat.
I want to thank everyone for their advice on the Veevus threads that I asked about. I will be ordering out a few spools of the threads and give it them a try on some of my patterns.Gordon
herefishey, and others who have threads fray while whipfinishing. A little trick I learned some time ago …take an emery board, fine side, and gently smooth the edges from the tip of the whipfinisher. Doesn’t take much, but it instantly stops the fraying!
Veevus 12/0 is my standard thread these days, in white for everything. A quick swipe with a marker at whip finishing time gives me any color I want.
IMO&E it blows any Uni completely away. I use 16/0 for full dress Atlantics…
Thanks, Betty, will try smoothing the whipper. And also adding some wax and spinning.