Dang, my background is desk, keyboard, computer guts, wall, windowsill, then a big green plastic lid to keep the sunset out of my eyes.
Maybe that is why my flies are ugly.
Thanks for clarifying that, tho. The only time I use a background is when I take photos, which is very very seldom.
Clay,
I dont have a real (attached) plate, but I do use the light blue 3mm foam sheets when I take pics of flies in the vise . I just prop it against the bobbin cradle. That is unless I have a BLUE damesl fly.
I think it was one of the Fly Tying: The Anglers Art episiodes where they were demonstrating different colors with different flies. Unless you only tie the same color patterns, at least 2 colors (light and dark) are reccomended.
The only time I use a background is when I am shooting a dressing hooks article for a given fly pattern.
Depending what materials you use and their color, have a great deal with selecting the best background for the image.
My backgrounds are big sheets of 2mm foam. Sometimes I use a light green, other times a light blue. Other times it is a bright yellow, orange, or red.
Then other times it maybe a tan, brown, or even black.
All walls in my fly tying room are painted white, my desk top has a white matting, and there is plenty of light all over the place. This helps me not only with my photography but with my dressing hooks.
CD in the player for some non-obtrusive background music.
I recommend you read one of Al Campbell’s articles that touch on this subject…
~Parnelli
I have the blue and grey DK plate materials and like them both. The blue is easy on the yes. I use them all the time.
OK, finally time to $hit or get off the pot as they say. I bought the DK profile plate in blue. I also picked up the extended 3" waste basket at the same time. Now I have to spend more time tying and less time thinking about what I might need as tools. :idea:
Like someone mentioned on another thread, I tend to over think these things.
Rick
If you got the wrong color, home depot has this stuff for around $5 or less called spray paint, you can change it to any other color you want.
Eric:p
what is a profile plate???
go back to page 2 of this thread and read posts 15, 16 and 17!
Actually that might not work Eric: The profile plates from DK are made of a plastic sheet that has a finely textured surface with a matte finish. It is an anti-glare color and very even in tone. I have experimented quite a bit on these and have not equalled this surface yet.
I take the DK plates into the field and use them for backgrounds when taking wildflower images (Fly pics in the fly room too).
It is not the greatest photo-but you get the idea of the DK blue plate utility from it. basically no glare.
Nice picture, I guess you get what you pay for in plates.
Eric
I just use a small piece of mat board and prop it up behind my vise. No work to make, lots of color choices, no problem to store it, and little to no expense involved.
The white corrugated poster/picture board is excellent for building one. That and a heated and bent coat hanger, and you have exactly what you want for pennies. Just a thought.
Had to do a follow up on this thread. I’ve been tying with the Dyna King light blue profile plate for a few days. The lighting seems better with the clean background. Thread control is easier; black use to get lost in a dark background. My material placement and control is also better. Eye strain is noticeable reduced. I absolutely love tying with it.
If you don’t want to invest in a store bought profile plate, no problem with me, just get some foam board or construction paper or make one yourself but having a clean background is a very nice addition that is helping the quality of my flies. Try one for yourself and you will be pleasantly surprised.
Like a few had posted, I always just propped up something when i needed a clean backdrop, usually 2mm light blue foam, but after a couple weeks pondering the posted ideas on homemade profile plates the mental wheels wouldn’t leave it alone. Not only a profile plate, but also the problem on how to connect it to the vise. This is what I came up with.
Raw parts
Finished parts ready to assemble
Sub assemblies
Profile plate & vise mounting block
Mounting block on vise stem
Black side of plate swung out
[
Blue side of plate swung in
[URL=http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f37/Bass_bug/Flies/ProfilePlate7a-1.jpg]
](http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f37/Bass_bug/Flies/ProfilePlate6a-1.jpg)
Parts list:
7" embroidery hoop: $.79
5/32" x 12" brass rod: $1.49
1/4 x 20 thread inserts: $.65 ea
1/4 x 20 SS cap screws: $.75 ea
1/4" x 3/4" aluminum spacer: $.65
80# Card stock (8 1/2 x 11). Black & light blue: $.29 ea
Cardboard back cover of notebook (not shown): free (but I’m sure I’ll hear about from one of my kids one of these days).
Hardwood block rough cut to 5/8" x 5/8" x 2". Block shown is a Wenge pen blank I had on hand from another project.
Total cost less than $7
Tools needed:
Drill (Drill press preferably) and various drill bits.
Fine kerf saw (2" dremel saw if available)
Tap & Die set for cutting threads in brass and aluminum
Sandpaper
Epoxy
Flat paint (any color). Plaid? brand craft paint is cheap and available in any craft dept.
Fabrication directions:
Hoop:
Remove center ring from embroidery hoop and slice in half to make two smaller hoops. The idea was that even a fine kerf blade would leave enough of a gap for cardboard substrate and 2 layers of card stock.
Sand lightly all surfaces of now 3 rings. Paint as desired.
Support rod:
Cut threads with thread die on each end of brass rod.
Tap matching threads in aluminum spacer.
Bend brass rod 90deg approx 4" from one end.
Epoxy threaded aluminum on outside of hoop opposite tension screw.
Block:
Drill a 3/8" through hole 3/4" from one end of hardwood block. Assuming vise stem is 3/8".
Drill a 5/32" through hole 5/8" from the other end of block.
Roll the block 90 degrees onto adjacent side and drill a 5/32" through hole that bisects first 5/32" hole.
Use countersink bit to slightly flare through holes.
Drill pilot holes (to threaded insert mfg specs) in each end. This is where drill press really helps.
Sand all sides and finish as desired.
Screw in threaded inserts in end holes. Insert cap screws in ends.
Profile inserts disc’s:
Use one of the inner rings and trace outside diameter on cardboard and card stock. Cut out disc’s. Sandwich one inner ring, card stock, cardboard, other card stock and other inner ring and insert in outer hoop. Tighten hoop to secure inner rings. Thread on brass rod and mount in vise block. Plate will swing around to use either side, you 'll just need to adjust brass rod to fit behind vise jaws.
I never used a profile plate and probably never will.
Heck, I just learned what one is right about now.
I do love bassbug’s contraption and will probably make one just because it is really really affordable, but then I’ll probably never use it.-those directions kick azz bassbug!
I’ve done well without it so far.
bass Bug that should have been an article, it would have been around forever. great post.
Eric
Make one, use it and you will like it. If you have younger eyes you might even tie without a tying light, but as you get a little older and your eye sight isn’t what it use to be, you will find yourself using a light every time that you tie, some of might even use a magnifying contraption every time. These are all things that help out that you never knew how much they helped until you try one. Besides, they make great backgrounds for photos of your handy work.
I second the idea of an article on the profile plate. It would be nice to have a “how to” section where people could put tips like how to build a profile plate, cordura rod tubes, home made fly tying tools etc.
Rick
What’s a profile plate?
see post 35 above. it has a picture of one
