has worked out how to keep the first foot of the 444 cortland fake silk line from sinking. I like the line but it sinks way to fast.
Of course you did try some good old timey Mucilin line dressing …?
In my opinion, Cortland Sylk is the absolute worst for tip sink.
Yes, you can dress it but it won’t be too long before it’s sinking again.
Won’t use it and dumped the two I foolishly bought.
On the other hand, the 444 Peach is, again in my opinion, one of the finest and most supple fly lines ever developed.
Unsurpassed if you’re a medium action type.
I don’t have a problem with my 3wt DT Sylk at all. But I may have solved the problem unknowingly from the start. I prefer a loop…so I create my own loop and in the process of “getting it right” probably took about 8-10" off the tip. I really have not noticed anything out of the ordinary wiith mine after 3 seasons now.
Ralph
Interesting subject for me as I have one that came with a glass rod combo, but have not had a chance to fish it yet. I’m looking forward to the ideas that come up here.
Brad
All fly lines have a level “tip” section before the beginning of the front taper.
For Cortland lines this front tip is 6" long. By cutting off 8-10", you removed the tip and went slightly into the taper. Since the thickness of the core and coating of the fly line is fixed, by making the new tip loop out of the thicker section of fly line it has more hollow beads to float the tip. By doubling the line into a loop, you improved the floatation of the section of line you attach to the leader.
It’s a good solution to a sinking tip although the line will land just a bit harder on the water.
Silver, makes sense. Wasn’t sure of the exact length of the tip.
Ralph
+1. Great line and can be found on the cheapsies.
I cut back the tip and added a folded loop on an older Rio line and I think I will get several more years out of it. Most of my trout fishing is 2 or 3 day trips w/ 10 to 12 hrs a day on the water. It was getting hard to keep the tip floating.if the tip does not float it is hard to mend. Now I am good to go again
Just dressing the tip works- as does permanently attaching a leader butt. A little zap-a-gap on the knot is all it takes…I LOVE the SYLK line and in fact we were part of the reason Cortland made it. The cost of a ‘real’ silk line is way out of the budget of most of us, even those who are fortunate enough to have gotten a bamboo rod. We all haven’t bought them new from the makers either…
I know that my 3wt DT along with a uni-thread furled leader loop-to-loop floats well. And yes, I regularly dress my entire leader to include both loops. It matches perfectly with a 7’ 3wt Lamiglass firecane rod. 
Respectfully, I don’t need any further prep when I’m fishing. Rig up, dress my dry fly, and fish. Why have to bother with dressing a plastic line?
And yes, the cost of a new silk line is prohibitive to most, including me. In retrospect, if you can live with the required dressing and drying (while you’re astream)
and really love the feel, then it’s probably worth it to you. If properly cared for a real, and good, silk line will easily last you 20 years.
It’s all good though. If you don’t have a problem with the alterations you have to craft to fish the Sylk, then it’s okay.
all lines that are cut (not factory loop) will sink in time…think about the center its dacron or mix of. dacron absorbs water. I seal every new line I use with thinned goop…most trout lines I do a welded internal piece of mono with a loop a few inches ot from tip. i use gorilla super glue (more waterproof than other brands) and then seal with thinned goop. never found a super glue that was totally waterproof, all break down in water after a while…
When I fish dries and nymphs under an indie, I always grease the leader. I tye my own mono leaders and either make a mono loop on the line tip, or nail knot the leader directly to the line. Slicking up the line tip and leader helps mend and pick up line; also helps relieve the drag created by the knots. I use a product from Loon Outdoors called “Payette Paste”…good stuff. It only takes a moment to apply and lasts quite a while.
aa
I agree with you LadyFisher. I do everything that you do plus I treat the line with this product:
http://www.feather-craft.com/wecs.php?store=feacraft&action=display&target=HC505
For those of you having issues with this line I put a couple of coats of Watershed on then let it dry for 24 hours. I also use zipcast and scientific anglers floatant while on the stream. It is a fly line so it is going to get dirty thus requiring stream side cleanings to maintain it’s performance. It really doesn’t require any more maintenance than some of my other more expensive lines. I love the buttery smooth texture of this line along with it’s lack of memory. Any line that gets cut is going to have at east a small part of the core exposed thus giving water a route to invade the line. That can make the line sink. Best course of action is to do what LadyFisher said. Seal the knot and the exposed core with Zap-A-Gap, Hard As Nails, Head Cement, Gorilla Glue, Elmer’s Glue All or your favorite glue.
I’ll try the gorilla glue thing and dressing the first couple of feet with floatant and see how that works, I do like the line, its just the sink thing… thanks for all the input… hope the gorilla glue dries fast…lol incase I need to change leaders on the water, i always tye mine directly on the line…
Hey if all else fails use it as a nymphing line. I know you got some great waters down your way that have great nymph fishing. Could also use it on big rivers to g after larger warm water species too.
I put the silk line back on my reel, tyed on a new leader, coated the not and tip with super glue, and assuming dressing means fly float on the line,(am concerned about an oily film on the water from it) and will test it out again in the next day or so… I don’t tye a loop on the end cause the streams I fish are so small and clear that I try to limit splash or bulk as much as possible, sometimes using 7x tippet… any ways, any more tips other than this are welcomed,
Am really glad I started this thread… cause of this thread I had my important stuff out of my fly belt pack and in the house when someone went into my Jeep and stole my fly belt at work. It was full with stuff I wanted to replace one day and I’m sure who ever took it thought they was getting something valuable… the look on there face when they opened it to find fly fishing stuff that had no pawn or resale value at all… May sound strange but I’m glad they did so I could replace the stuff I wanted to any way… lol now I got new not worn out way cool stuff including newly tied flys…
Semi-Silver lining there…hope they didn’t damage the car beyond the insurance reimbursement