I recently purchased by first rod building kit from a sponsor here and while it looked really good coming out of the box and I had delusional visions of perfection, the rod just didnt seem right once I completed it.
My biggest problem is that the guide wraps, with the flex coat, look like a series of pregnant guppies laying along the entire length of the rod. The wraps arent flush with the rod in the least, partially because I had to put so much flex coat on to hide the little hairs that are sticking through from the silk wraps.
Are there different qualities of flex coat or silk out there that one can use to avoid this problem? I went to the local sewing store and got another spool of silk but it doesnt seem to be much better. Does it have somehting to do with the brush you put it on with? PLEASE, any help would be much appreciated.
jb;
Try Flex Coat Lite or thin the epoxy with an equal part Denatured Alcohol.
Burn the fuzzies off with an alcohol lamp or butane lighter (Do not use a candle).
If you are going to re-do the wraps cut them on top of the guide feet and take care not to nick the blank. Use a stiff plastic scraper like a credit card to remove the epoxy residue.
JB,
I’d hope you would NOT redo the threads and epoxy! That’s your FIRST rod.
“Even” rod building has a learning curve! You completed your first rod, and it’s something you will always be able to look back on, while you’re fishing it, and remember the process. Things will improve after the first dozen or so rods you build :lol:
Flex Coat /FC lite is easier to handle if you warm the materials, SLIGHTLY, with a hairdryer before applying it with a fairly stiff brush in thin layers.
Betty
Betty, there is no way I am going to redo the wraps, depsite their flaws. In sort of sentimental fashion, I built this rod, and labeled it as such, for my son of 6 months. It’ll be a gift from me that I can tell him I made while he slept at my feet.
I try and get some flex coat lite and any reason to get a butane lighter is fine by me.
My first rod I built then sold at cost so I could rebuild, then sold at cost so I could rebuild, then sold at cost so I could rebuild, then had the rod I wanted.
Sometimes I’m a slow learner - but that was back in 1977 - I have built 100’s since (maybe over 1000). I love the hobby and really enjoy getting it better each time.
Keep it up, it’s a great deal of fun.
Edit: Oh by the way the advice given is right on target. I use an alcohol lamp. I think I’ve worn out a few now - can’t build a rod without one.
Guppies! :lol:
Johnny, I’ve got a few boos set aside for the kids (4,7) already myself and understand the sentimental value of it. They sat and watch me spin the thread “around and around and around” and even helped on a few guides. JOY indeed.
Just a tip, I’ve carefully looked at the sewing shop threads and they do have a lot more “fuzzies” than the specifically made rod winding threads (silk/nylon). It’s probably only $2 more each than the sew shops but well worth it. They might help to make skinnier guppies!
Is there a particular type of thread i should be looking for? The type that came with my kit seemed ok, but if something is out there that would help me I would gladly look into it.
JohnnyB,
What I do now, in addition to trying to burn the fuzzies, is to use a light epoxy and do a real light first coat just to coat the thread. This results in fewer bubbles, and allows me to cut off any thread fuzzies with a razor blade before I do a second light coat of epoxy. For me, this actually turns out to be less work than trying to do one thick coat and dealing with potential problems. I can coat a whole rod at a time because each coat is thinner and faster to apply.
Now that I’ve built 2 rods I know just enough to be dangerous!
What my instructors had me do was a combination of all of the above advice — First, flame the wraps with a plastic squeezy alcohol torch, specifically the 2 thread tails that will be protruding from each wrap. In doing this, most of the fuzzies are also eliminated off the middle of the wrap. Torch those tails only once! If there’s a bit left and you try a second time, you’ll burn the thread and have to re-wrap.
Then, apply a first coat of epoxy, but don’t glop it on there. I didn’t use thinner grade epoxy or thin it down, i just applied less of it, just enough to darken the thread. Some places will be shiny, others you’ll still see the thread texture. It will look kinda ugly. Then it’s off to the drying motor.
For the final coat, first use razor sharp nippers to clip off any thread tail (now epoxy-covered) that’s left. Then coat it again, everything should be shiny. To smooth the epoxy, they had me lightly hit the wet epoxy with the torch while the rod is spinning on the drying motor. You can visibly see the epoxy get smoother as you flame it. Too much flame, and you’ll scorch the epoxy, though. I have one ‘oops’ on my second rod from that!
Anyway, I followed my instructors instructions to the letter, and everything came out nicely both times.
Danbob,
Your response is great! :lol: But fire and I don’t play together well!! I just can’t imagine a torch in my hands!! The use of a cuticle trimmer (like a nipper, but the head is angled with a fairly sharp point on one edge) will easily clean up the thread ends before or after the first coat of epoxy. You can also let it dry completely after the first coat, and smooth the bumps off with an emory board. Then apply your final light coat of epoxy.
Betty
This is all great advice. I thank all of you very much.
I guess I should invest in a drying motor, huh? I didnt want to get too far into the rod making things, money-wise, until I knew it was something I would enjoy. Manually turning the dumb rod for hours while the expoxy sets is a little monotonous. Any suggestions there?
You don’t need to turn the rod continuously. Set it in V notches in a cardboard box , and turn 1/4 turn every 10 min. leave a dollop of epoxy on a piece of cardboard and touch IT to see if things have set up enough to stop turning. That said, you will really enjoy a drying motor. Just find (buy? ) any AC motor which will turn something like 4 rpm or 20 rpm. Speed is not critical. You don’t need a fancy rod chuck. I just butt up the rod to the output shaft and apply a few turns of masking tape. You can mate it with the female ferrule by shimming the output shaft w/ masking tape ( the rod builder’s secret weapon) until it fits just a bit snug.
My first drying motor was a cardboard box with the motor bolted to one side and a V notch in the other. I have now built a fancier one but it doesn’t work any differently.
AgMD
THE BATTENKILL
KEEP IT WILD
JohnnyB,
Just a thought … are the wraps standing proud of the rod because the guides don’t fit flat against the rod? When you’re smoothing the top of the feet (to remove any sharp points and thin the ends) smooth the bottom of the guide feet by holding the bottom of the guide flat against a wet stone, and smoothing it back and forth till it’s truly flat. That extra few minutes will make for a smoother wrap.
Betty
jb;