I finally got to feeling good enough to get out on the lake today for a few hours. Haven’t been able to practice my casting and it is showing. I don’t know what I am doing wrong here, perhaps something in the mechanics of my stroke, perhaps something mental, maybe both. I noticed that while casting my rocket taper 5wt line on a 6’6" fiberglass rod that the loop on my forward cast was closing up. Not completley but getting petty close. When I put the same line on my 9’ 5/6wt graphite now the loop is closing completely. On a couple of cast I actually got my tippet wrapped around the forward taper of the fly line.
For some reason I didn’t check the loop on my back cast but I could hear my fly popping. Ok, I figured I am not giving the line enough time to straighten out and load the rod on the back stroke. So I slow my timing down. No more popping but the front loop still closed and only putting out about 50-60 foot casts instead of 70-80+ foot casts. I throw a lot of DT lines on my rods and usually can cast into the backing which is shorter than a WF line. Even so I usually throw nice 70-80+ casts with my WF lines. The only other variable is that I don’t use the rod I used today very much. That may be huge as I may not be accustomed to it’s action.
Probably a combination of these things?
Any advice and thoughts would be most appreciated.
I would also guess that you are applying too much force and too soon in the cast. This usually knocks the ‘knees’ out from under the rod and causes the tip/mid to bend back too low on the cast. Apply a little less, yet smoother power to the rod. You should feel it load almost to the handle. Let the rod drive the line at the end of the rod, with a firm stop, don’t try to do it yourself by forcing it.
Slow down the front stroke>> a closed loop is not necessarily always a bad thing depending if it is
collapsing or not, hopefully not… It can scare fish if it is directed down to the water
at this hi line speed when it lands.
I find myself some times looking more like a right angle rather than a candy loop.
This happens on my 3wg when I haul hard on the front stroke and line speed goes hyper sphere.
This is one great feeling wish I could do it on command more often. I like to keep it high
and let it fall to the water or the fish will spoke as mentioned above…
Try slowing down with a quick stop not overpowering , you know feeling… boy what a feeling too!
There are so many explanations to this. Some will say concave rod path, some will say other stuff. But the simple answer is:
Too much, too early, too little, too late.
You already said you were snapping - good symptom of starting the forward cast too soon. You are probably starting too hard and stopping soft and high.
I think Joan Wulff talks about flipping a big spider off the end of the rod. If you start too early and too hard, the spider will fall off on your head. But if you start slow and increase your velocity to a sharp stop, the spider will flick off towards the target.
Get someone to watch. In the mean time you can open up your loop by stopping later - like 2:00 instead of 1:00. This will force your loop open until you can regain your timing. Changing from a stiff to a softer rod will sometimes percipitate this problem. Screws up your timing. Just slow down that early part of the cast with the slower rod. You will get it back.
But then, you probably know all this already and I am just talking to myself.
Eric;
Are you “Creeping” during the backcast? Letting your casting arm drift froward while waiting for the rod to load. I had this problem awhile back and my casting instructor saw that I was over powering the forecast by snapping into it and not building power as I came forward. This is hard for a so so caster to explain Eric. The forecast should build power as you make it, if you snap it you get a lot of wind knots. I rembember telling him that’s how I count my fish!!
I was throwing a punch on my forecast instead of accelerating the cast.
I have a friend down here that is a certified casting instructor and anytime I need help I just call.
You are an experienced caster not a novice so I do believe your solution lies solely with the front and rear stroke as it applies to line speed.
I have studied this with my own casting. I try all the time to achieve this very
thing with control… to my great pleasure it brings me the most satisfaction as far as
the feel and appearance of a fine cast.
Sounds like good advice folks. This gives me a starting point to work things out. This was the second rod I bought and the first “better quality rod”. I fished with it for about 6 months before this saltwater gill busting former float tuber from Ohio put an Orvis in my hand. Spoiled me rotten. Since then this rod has fallen from favor with me. Probably a mental thing as I am sure the rod is fine. My buddy can cast this rod without any problems. It’s a Gander Mountain Pioneer Guide Series 9’ 5/6 wt 2 piece and you may see it on the for sale board if I continue to have difficulty with it.
Interesting thought. This is the fastest action rod I own. The other graphite, boo and glass are all mid to full flex, slow action. Perhaps I just need to stick with the slower action rods?
BTW, Bob, no I didn’t know and it’s OK to talk to yourself, though you weren’t doing so here, so long as you do not answer yourself! I may bust your chops from time to time but it’s only 'cause I like you.
At the risk of sounding flippant (which I’m not: I feel nothing but admiration)… You say your present technical/mechanical struggles are causing you to throw “only” 50-to-60 foot casts?
Amigo, you don’t HAVE a problem! Quit fretting and go fishing; make it THEIR problem!
I believe the prior comments about starting your forward cast too fast are right on. Remember you start slowly and continue to accelerate as you move through the stroke, ending with an abrupt stop. Here’s a good analogy: Pretend that you have a big 6 inch paint brust loaded with paint and you want to throw the paint onto a wall in front of you without getting it on yourself or anywhere else. Think about that. You have to begin slowly and and stop abruptly to make that happen. The length of the stroke will vary depending on how much line you have in the air. The longer the line, the longer the stroke.
No joking here, I did not realize it’s not “normal” to be able to cast enough line to clearly see the backing on your reel. On a few occasions I have had the satisfaction that J. C. describes of hearing the line/backing knot rattle through the guides. Normally I can cast down to where I can clearly see the backing through about a half dozen wraps of line on the spool. Not uncommon for me. That is until the problems I noted as of late.
A few years back I met a new friend that helped my casting tremendously. He is from the finger lakes region of N.Y. and was making casts into the backing on my Orvis. As he was just getting back on his feet financially he didn’t have any of his own fly fishing gear any more so I set him up with my old Wal-Mart special and some flies. I think I got the better end of the deal as I got a terrific new friend and casting advice that normally would have cost me some pretty good $$. Unfortunately, due to his personal situation, he is no longer available for me to go fishing with.
Thanks for the advice, folks. It will be a while before I can put it to practice as Amy goes in for her second Biopsy on Tuesday. Add on the approach of rifle deer hunting season here in Pa. and I am going to be one busy boy for a while.
