I am outfitting my canoe with a variation of the Joe Hyde 2-anchor system. I really wanted to use his idea of the soft anchor. But I about fell over when I saw the cost of the lead shot. I have one of those mushroom anchors, but I think it is too big an clunky.
So, some questions?
[ul]
[li]How much weight do I actually need for a canoe anchor?
[/li][li]Any other sources for the shot?
[/li][li]Any ideas for a substitute for the lead shot?
[/li][li]Is there another type of suitable anchor?
[/li][/ul]
I use this for my canoe and my pontoon boats…get a laundry mesh bag from the dollar store. Fill it with rocks from the bank. You’ll soon learn how many rocks you need. If it gets snagged it’s not a big monetary loss or environmental disaster…WHen you’re done for the day, empty the bag and let it dry out…
I use a large about 2 1/2 inch ID nut as in nut and bolt. I bought at a surplus store, weighs enough to hold the canoe and cost almost nothing.
I constantly see things that could be used to anchor a canoe at goodwill. small dumbbell weights, window sash weights old ankle weights milk jugs full of sand work, look around you will find something that looks good and works well.
A search of canoe anchors on the web shows weights from 1.5 to three pounds. a four to five pound weight ought to hold you in any conditions you should be out in a canoe in.
HAHA—be careful—i used a sash weight in 20 ft of water with a clay bottom in a lake and almost upended the canoe trying to get it out—evidently it speared the bottom like an arrow and went into the marl about 10".
I welded a 4" diameter plate on the end so that didnt happen again.
I made one for my 11’ jonboat by hanging piece
of 3/8 chain in the center of a 3lb. coffee can
then filling same with cement. I suppose all one
would need for a canoe would be a smaller can
of some description…could actually have a few
different sizes for not a ton of money.
About 2 links of the chain above the level of the
filled can are enough to tye a line to. Drop the can,
drift a few feet away, tug till the can tips over and
there you go. Never had any trouble staying put on
Fall River in NOCA and the current there is pretty
strong in some places I’d anchor.
Be careful shorthaul if that plate sinks into the clay/muck it could be even harder to get out…the disc I mention below has given me concerns at times…
I’ve done the the sand and/or rock ideas mentioned but you know they aren’t always available.
I currently am using on my float tube… a disc exercise weight…somehow they tend to be around my house unused:rolleyes:…been thinking of a dumb bell as mentioned above…
“…been thinking of a dumb bell as mentioned above…”
I don’t usually like getting wet in the winter…summer’s OK.
We use a hunk of large chain for one end and a hunk of steel for the other end. The chain is our primary anchor and with it we can adjust drag if the situation requires drift.
,lee s.
I walk away from my PC for an hour and get nearly a zillion suggestions. I’m actually feeling kind of silly now for not thinking “outside the canoe”. :rolleyes:
I’m going to have to spend a little time in Goodwill and the hardware stores. I think a milk jug type solution would be about perfect for me.
Hmmm, I think I may have a small old TV lying around…
I used to use a plastic-covered 5 Lb. weight ‘donut’, that goes on a barbell. It worked fine for years and years. Then, last year, I broke down and bought a Kwik Tec folding anchor. It works great, holds the canoe/kayak better in all conditions, and on all bottoms, and is very easy to haul back up. It only weighs 3-1/2 Lbs, so in a pinch, it could be used as a grappling hook. I payed around $35.00 for it at Wal-Mart.
I use a three pound mushroom anchor for the front and a bleach jug filled with cement for the rear. I setup a system in front that the stem of the anchor slides into to keep it from hitting the bow and the rear is off on the side where I can reach it and use the jug handle to lift it out if needed.
I use an 8# mushroom for my canoe, but then again I needed it to hold in some decent river current on a rocky bottom. Other suggestions might be a downrigger weight (what I use on my float tube), a length of heavy chain…
Like MOturk – I use ankle weights. Works better than anything I’ve used. I tried plastic jugs but I couldn’t ever get them high enough out of the water to keep them from messing with the tracking of the canoe. The ankle weights pull right up to the U-bolt and out of the way of the water. I’ve had a drift issue only one or two time, so they do work well. JGW
