My first build...

Equipment Rod Building: Cane and Graphite
1

I have selected a Forecast 6’6" 4 piece rod for my first build. Now that I have the blank picked out, what else will I need to complete it?

I have a general idea that I will need guides, winding check, handle, reel seat for the rod and epoxy and thread to put it all together. Are there any other specialized tools I’ll need? I can convert my fly turner into a rod turner no problem.

Can anyone point me in a direction of how many, how much and what brands to buy? I am looking to make this as inexpensive as possible as far as hardware goes until I figure out if this will be something I want to do again. For what I will be using the rod for it probably won’t last more than 2 seasons before I break the tip anyway. Thanks for your help.

2

I posted a bit more in the short rod thread about the different kits available from H&H. I think it’s a good idea to get a kit to start with … everything in it you need … no worry about getting part way in to the build, only to find out you need one more little thing !!! The build is fairly straight forward. Practice a few (or more!) times before finishing. A box, a book, some very sharp scissors, good lighting … you’re good to go!! Remember, this being your first build; it may not look like a high end finished rod when you finish (well, it might, but, it might not!), but it will be YOUR first rod, and you’ll love it forever!

3

Betty pretty much hit it. Can’t stress the need for good lighting enough! I’d add “a good clean out of the way area where it can dry in peace and quiet”!
P.S. I caught 14 trout on mine Friday!!

4

I sold some “crap” laying around and ordered my kit. 6’6" 2 wt four piece. Hope everyone is up for helping me out when it gets here.

5

Before you start get a bottle of vinigar. Vinigar will clean up fresh epoxy and it’s a lot safer.

6

Flyrodde -

I just started my first rod yesterday - a Hook & Hackle 7’6" for 3 wt two piece.

Before starting, I read a LOT on the solvent issue because I flat out did not want to work with acetone.

Vinegar was suggested by a lot of folks, but I ended up with alcohol in a 91% solution ( recommended by several different folks both from FAOL and a couple other websites ) from the pharmacy section of the local grocery store. $1.59 for enough to do a couple rods, at least.

So far, putting together the reel seat and gluing it to the blank, the alcohol has cleaned up everything easily and nicely - no fuss, no bother, and hardly any fumes, and the ones that are there are much less noxious than acetone. It has also worked well cleaning some adhesives ( from stickers and masking tape ) off the blank, and cleaning the blank after sanding it prior to gluing.

So far it has been easier in some regards and a bit more difficult than I expected on a couple things. I guess the real challenge comes after all the gluing is done and the work with the thread starts !!

John

I thought about starting a thread on my first build, but I know it ain’t gonna be photogenic so I thought I would wait until I catch a bunch of nice fish in a beautiful place and post those photos instead.

7

Denatured alcohol works also and if you make/buy an alcohol lamp to burn off the fuzzies you’ll need it.
John I’d like to clear up one statement you made. “Cleaning the blank after sanding”. flyrodde, the sanding John is refering to is the area under the grip and reel seat only. Lay out the reel seat and cork grip and measure to determine how much of the Butt section should be sanded, a little masking tape at this point to protect the rest of the blank won’t hurt. After roughing the area up with some 180 sand paper clean it with the alcohol to assure a good bond.
Earlier in this thread I stated that I had just caught 14 trout on my 6’ 6" 2 wt. Well today I caught 18 on my 9’ Sage “Z Axis” that I completed Tuesday evening!! There is no way I could ever afford to buy a rod like that but by learning to build rods I now have one!
Welcome to the addiction!!

8

My first fly rod build was a 6’6" 2 wt made on a Cabela’s blank. It’s pretty ugly, all black except for the cork. Black single foot guides, black carbon fiber looking reel seat, and black thread.

The action on it is really fast for my beginning casting skills. First I lined it with a 2wt double taper and it felt like I was casting with a stout stick. Next I lined it with a weight forward floating 3 wt, and that helped a little, but still very fast action. I did managed to catch 4 blue gills on it Thursday evening though.

My second fly rod build is going to be on a longer blank(7’6") and hopefully I’ll find a moderate action. It’ll probably be a 3wt since I already have a reel and line that will work on that.

9

Jack -

Right on with the clarification on sanding the blank.

Thanks.

John

10

Flyrodde -

Just finished my first rod this morning - waiting for the finish on the wraps to cure. Will likely go fishing with it tomorrow or the next day to see how it fishes.

A couple points to keep in mind. The Graphite Rod Building series ( go to Features on the Main Page and go to Rod Building on the Features page ) is a great reference for each step of the process. Before starting another step, I would reread the part of the series that applied to that step a couple times.

One article I read pointed out the value of elastic thread to hold the guides in place temporarily after you get them spaced and aligned properly and before you wrap them. I had never heard of it before, but found it at Joann Fabrics Store. Tie down the guides fairly tight with the thread well stretched and it holds them in place nicely, but allows you to move them around to get them aligned properly. ( I read about other ways to temporarily hold the guides, but none of them sounded as simple as the elastic thread, and after using it, its hard to believe any other technique would be as simple and effective. )

Another point I think is worth making is that the temperature REALLY affects how well your glue and wrapping finish mix and how easy they are to use ( assuming you are using two part mixes ). For the epoxy for the reel seat and gluing the reel seat to the blank, I used epoxy mixed in the basement where I was working. Very thick consistency, which may have worked better for that part of the process.

For the finish on the wraps, using two part one coat Flex Coat, I warmed the components before mixing them and got fairly thin finish material. Went on much easier than I had anticipated, but it did start to cool down before I finished all the wraps. You might look for a warmer part of the house ( garage, workshop, etc ) to do this step.

One other thing - most of the articles I read on rod building described one variety of stand or other to hold the rod while wrapping the guides. Anything from a cardboard box with slots and holes in it to stands made by various companies retailing for $XX. You can get by without a stand - at least I did. Hand held and hand wrapped the guides, ferrule and the tip top. Had to rewrap a couple guides to improve the appearance, but since I started out just wanting to get through the process with a lot emphasis on learning and the actual function of the rod and without much emphasis on appearance, it worked out well.

Had put building a rod off for a couple years, for a variety of reasons. Glad I finally got around to it. Will be building more rods in the future, and will likely invest in some of the things that will help me produce a better looking, if not better fishing, rod.

John

11

Nice write up on your build John. I hope we see some photos from Flyrode and you soon.

There’s something I’ve always wondered about. Using one of those little coffe cup warmers with the wrap epoxy cup sitting in a saucer of water to keep it thin longer.

There is another way to hold down the wraps but it takes a little partice.
Squirt a little Super Glue on a sheet of paper and dip the toes of the guide foot in it (single foot guides would only be one toe. Very gently put the guide in place and hold the foot down with a popsicle stick for a couple of seconds. This will hold the guide in place for wraping but you can still break it loose to align it.

I’ve built a couple of manual rod wraping stations out of scrap lumber. I’ll take some pictures and pass them along.

12

Jack -

Thanks.

Look for a thread in the not distant future titled “Ugly Duckling.” Will have some photos.

Thought about the super glue, which was recommended in a number of write-ups. But was concerned that I might over do it and end up with a problem.

That coffee cup warmer would be a neat trick. Next time I start a rod I’ll try to remember it.

Will look forward to some pics of a home made wooden wrapping stand. My fishing partner has built bunches of rods and has some nice stands and rod turning set ups that he made, but I wanted to do this one completely on my own. Best way to learn, for me.

John

13

This is made from some left over hardwood flooring. The spool carriage slides from side to side on a 1/4" wood dowel. The 3 oz. weights and cotton string act as a friction brake when wraping. They will hold the rod in place if you have to stop. The green strip of foam is to hold the guides in the order they go on the rod.
The base is 14" wide by 10" deep and the arms are 9" set at a 60 degree angle.

I modified a friction type tensioner to set the tension on the spool and not the thread. I had to replace the wing nut with a Ny-Lock nut to keep it from slipping. I glued a bent paperclip in to the carriage for a thread guide

14

Jack -

Very inventive !! And the workmanship is outstanding.

Considering what you put that into the work station, I’d like to see some pics of that Z-Axis you built on it, or did I miss them somewhere along the line ??

John

15

Here’s the Sage Z Axis. 4 pc. 9’ 5 wt.
I used Titanim single foot guides to save some weight and a Pac Bay reel seat. This is the first 9’ rod I’ve built that balances exactualy where I like it, in the palm of my hand! And it does cast better than I do!!
I had a darker green thread that almost matched the rod but there was not enough contrast for me to wrap it!

16

I just received my blank and kit in the mail today. I am going away this weekend so It will be started next week sometime. I already can’t wait to fish it. Actually wish I had it today the river banks are getting mighty thick, and trees are mighty low this year.

17

Ok I am almost ready to start. I’ve read all of AL’s articles and have my stand and what not ready to go. Just had a question. Has anyone ever used acrilic to finish your wraps with? Something like a knot-sense or similar product. I am just curious because I find it much easier to work with than epoxy. Let me know.

18

I’d recommend using the rod finish. Start with smaller batches, and practice on something (anything) else, before starting on the finished wraps. Go slowly, don’t try to rush it. You’ll be glad, in the end, you mastered that step. Oops, forgot to say, in addition, use thin applications. If you need to use a second coat, fine, just don’t get too much on at a time.