More Seed Bead Patterns

All about flies Fly Tying
1

I’ve been busy again, these are bead buzzers suitable for stillwaters but in smaller sizes can work on streams.
http://www.dtnicolson.dial.pipex.com/page55.html

And the last five on this page are additions.
http://www.dtnicolson.dial.pipex.com/page51.html

2

Nice buzzers. Bead buzzers are great because they sink quickly and last for many fish. One thing you can do to greatly reduce breakage is to seat them on one or more layers of thread. I found out that it’s the loose beads hitting the hook, especially the eye, that cause most of the damage. Good quality seed beads have big enough holes to let you do this. As a side benefit, they lay evenly on the hook. This has been a killing pattern for me, perhaps it looks like a caddis larva: :wink:

These are 11/0 light beige ceylon Miyuki’s for the body and 10/0 clear orange iridescent finished Czech for the head. The hook is my favourite: a Daiichi 1150 #12.

3

I like that fly, a good idea with the thread between the beads. I have been soaking mine in Sally Hansen, usually two coats.

4

franky, do you run the thread over each bead to get to the next gap or do you tie off and start each gap individually? seems like if you did it the first way you’d quickly have loose thread and doing the second way seems like there’s not enough room. I think I need some schooling on this.

5

I should just let him come back but I can do this and watch the game at the same time…

"One thing you can do to greatly reduce breakage is to seat them on one or more layers of thread. "

I believe that means he’s wrapping the shaft of the hook…not between the beads. The beads slide over the thread…at least that’s how I do it.

6

Thanks, duckster. Yeah, I’m on a laptop in the livingroom while watching the game. Can’t beat it.

7

Yep, I wrap the shaft of the hook. Depending upon the thickness of the wire and the bead hole size, it takes 1-2 layers of either 6/0 or 8/0 thread to stop the beads from rattling. One thing I also do is untwist my thread so it lays flat. Since I’ve been doing this, it really takes a hard knock against the side of the boat or my head to break those beads.

8

and…I most of the time will wet the thread with a light coat of super glue before sliding the beads over the thread.

9

Gentlemen,

Try wrapping some tinsel or holographic thread on the shank under translucent tinted beads. You can get some different ‘looks’ this way. Also, using black thread under translucent beads can give you a ‘lateral line’ or ‘blood line’ effect.

AND, if you’ll give ‘nail glue’ (available at the dollar store or in the cosmetic section) a try over the beads instead of Sallys, you might be pleasantly surprised. The ‘nail glue’ fills the gaps well, dries to a rock hard shine, and it is incredibly durable. Two coats of this stuff makes the beads look like a segmented body rather than a series of beads on the hook.

Don’t get it in the hook eye.

Wish I could figure out this picture posting thing…

Good Luck!

Buddy

10

Very good idea,I like that Buddy

      JaD
11

Ah Buddy, but then what will I do with all my silver, gold, copper, etc lined beads that I foolishly bought? :lol:

Here’s some clear/silver lined beads on a Crazy Charlie (hook: #12 Daiichi 1150, my favourite):

Strangely enough, it appears stillwater rainbows in Canada really like Carribean shrimp. I use it with a streamer strip, nymph drift presentation, so its a shrimp strymph.