I’m still not clear on whether a loop connection creates a hinge or not? I can’t see how it wouldn’t. When I started fly fishing I like the idea of loop connections. It seemed like an easy and fast way to hook everything together. I’m having second thoughts now.
It seems the rage now for fly lines to come with a loop at the leader end. Is this the best way to hook up a leader, or is it just a selling gimmick?
One of the reasons i bring this up is i’m reading a book by Chris Francis called “Brown Trout Fly Fishing”. In one of his nymph leader setups he wants a hinge right after the indicator. He gets it by using a loop to loop connection. If it hinges there. Why not everywhere?
Normally a hinge anywhere from reel to fly is not good right, or am I wrong in thinking this?
I am still somewhat of a newbie. But I would assume how “hinge-like” a loop conenction is is dependent on the stiffness of the material being looped and the size of the loop.
The only way to really know would to be cast with one and see if you like it. I am sure some people on here would never use them and others use it all the time. I use one but I am not sure I am a good enough caster to tell. That being said it works for me. Maybe as I get to be a better caster my opinion will change…or maybe it will stay the same.
Which way to loop? Normal, or ‘thru’? It can be run thru, giving a nice hinge.
I hate loops of any lind. Only serve to catch stuff or help sink things.
[quote=““J Castwell””]
Which way to loop? Normal, or ‘thru’? It can be run thru, giving a nice hinge.
I hate loops of any lind. Only serve to catch stuff or help sink things.
[/quote]
One of my lines has a loop like that and I like it. It seems like after a little while casting the whole thing gets cinched together and is pretty tight. I dont think it hinges after that. Although I’m probably not a good enough caster to realize any difference.
If you are looking for an alternative way to get easy connections, try the line to leader connectors that Scientific Anglers makes. I tried them with one of my lines and think it works great!
Gramps - I don’t know about a hinge or not, but I use loop to loop for the fly line to leader connection with no problems. I had been using the nylon loops you add with the shrink wrap band, but the boys at the fly shop felt that a short piece of 25lb. or heavier mono (blood knot to connect and the perfection loop to finish) is a beter connection. I’ve been using Amnesia which is red and acts like an indicator.
I think Dave Whitlock has a method of inserting the leader into the fly line so there is no “bump” to catch in the guides. Seems like overkill to me, but I know folks who swear by it.
Gramps, the hinging effect below the indicator, is to force the leader into a right angle, thus allowing a right angle drift. It prevents the leader from forming a bow and gives a much more natural drift. The rest of the leader will tend to straighten, if added weight is used.
Personally, I like my leaders to be as knot free or loop free as possible, since the knots tend to collect debris, ice etc.,
The loop connectors on the fly lines tend to cinch down pretty good and not really hinge, although I do prefer a mono section, nail knotted into the fly line.
The heavier the line (like 8 or 9wt), like when using with a straight mono leader and a streamer, I prefer a loop to loop connection. However, when using my 4 or 5wt, like dry fly fishing, I still like those old timey Eagle-Claw leader links.
Also, in my kit-bag of tricks, when fishing some creeks that you can step across, way up in the mountains, where the brush is kinda thick, I’ve been know to carry an ultra light spin cast reel; loaded with 4# mono, which I’ll attach it to an old timey (short - 7 1/2’) downloading fiberglass fly rod and I can do an underhanded flick-of-the-wrist, sending a small bead-head nymph a little short distance - just far enough to get the job done!
The heavier the line (like 8 or 9wt), like when using with a straight mono leader and a streamer, I prefer a loop to loop connection. However, when using my 4 or 5wt, like dry fly fishing, I still like those old timey Eagle-Claw leader links.
Also, in my kit-bag of tricks, when fishing some creeks that you can step across, way up in the mountains, where the brush is kinda thick, I’ve been know to carry an ultra light spin cast reel; loaded with 4# mono, which I’ll attach it to an old timey (short - 7 1/2’) downloading fiberglass fly rod and I can do an underhanded flick-of-the-wrist, sending a small bead-head nymph a little short distance - just far enough to get the job done!
Dale
Recommended by Don Bryant. he said you should have three rigs to cover all situations of nymph fishing. The conventional fly rig, the light spinning rig, and the fly rod and reel with full mono line.
I just don’t know if I could bring myself to do it. Catching fish is not the bottom line with me when I fly fish.
I just don’t know if I could bring myself to do it. Catching fish is not the bottom line with me when I fly fish.[/quote]
Consider this … when I climb up those mountain creek ways, I did so to do a little fishing. Had I just wanted to sit and observe nature (which ain’t all bad), will do so down in the valley! When on those mountain creek treks, I always carry both reels; a fly rod reel with an FL-4-F line and the ultra light, open-face, spin cast reel. When it finally gets to where “something” has to be done to keep going, i.e., either quit fishing or put on the spin-cast reel, that’s what I’ll do … every time!
[quote=““J Castwell””]
When your fly line has a loop, tie your leader end thru the loop, not ‘loop-to-loop’. THIS will give you the hinge you want. (If you want a hinge)
[/quote]
I wasn’t looking for a hinge. I’m not sure it’s a good thing. Nobody answer if it was or not. I assume it’s not a good thing for casting.
Terrible for presentation, at least for anything I might want to do. But, some want it. I hate loops, catch grass and such. Actually use a small knot to fasten the flyline to the leader (loop).
I used the slip on loop connectors for a long time until I discovered the “Castwell Knot”. The “Castwell Knot” is the only way to go as far as I am concerned. Makes a very small knot that goes through the guides very well and has never failed.
Application is always the key. Most loop to loop connections do form some type of square knot that actually tightens the leader loop and the fly line loop. The problem is not a hinge, but as others have said, the problem is that anything and everything will get caught up in that big mess. If you are okay with that like I am, then use loop to loop connections. The actual answer to your actual question is, yes and no. Yes, a hinge is bad if it affects your casting, but no if it doesn’t make a difference.
My question to you would be: do you intend to change leaders often?
I use the loop system and yes it does have its “snagging” issues but that is offset by the ability to quickly change leaders IF, you have a need to quickly change leaders.
I use either a braided butt or furled leader for dry fly fishing. I like them long and tipped out fine. For subsurface work I go to a much shorter stouter regular knotted leader. I like the two different set-ups. It works for me.
When I switch tactics, I switch leaders using the loop to loop system. Now if I was inclined to use the same type leader for everything; I would probably not do the loop thing because there are times the loop is in the guides while landing a fish and that ain’t a good thing.
I have seen some fly fishers that like the loop system because they are not very good at tying blood knots, surgeon’s knots or the knot of their choice when replacing a tippet so they swap out the whole leader stream-side and repair their shortened leader at home when they have 6 hours available to tie the required knots.
I won’t go there…
By the way, the hinging thing doesn’t seem to be an issue with my leader to fly line loop connections.
As far as a hinge for nymphing; I don’t buy the concept. I fished too many years with worms & bobbers in moving water and never saw anything that didn’t weigh a ton hanging 90 degrees below my bobber; but then again, I never wrote a book about fishing so what do I know?
