I’m looking for a dragonfly pattern and also a damsel patter.
did you check the fly archive on this website??
Did you Google “dragonfly fly pattern” or “damselfly fly pattern”? Also are you looking for adult or nymphs? Two totally different types of patterns.
Guess that would make a difference…Just noticed the bluegill eating them instead of my wolly bugger
Foam is easiest to use to make the body and silicone skirting (not rubber) for the soft legs. The problem is wings, and it is a problem. I have tried MANY materials, none with success. Those firm enough not to collapse are like casting a kite and flutter. Those easier to cast collapse toward the tail. Those that float don’t look realistic, and those that sink sink. Trying to retrieve a fly once it’s on the water is worse. Big wings want to tip over the fly, and soft wings really fold against the body now. Here’s a list of some things that DON’T WORK for wings: krystal flash, flashaboo, bucktail, closed cell foam, packing foam, plastic bag materials (like zip lock), raffia, etc.
You can try to use hair comparadun style, but it doesn’t look quite right on the water.
Using hackle parachute style had potential, but the dragon fly has to be very small to have the hackle be proportionate. Even big saddle feathers aren’t quite big enough for a fly the size of a real mosquito hawk.
To make the segmented body, put an upholstery needle in your vise clamping down on the hole. Cut a small strip of sheet foam. Make a point in one end. Start a few wraps of thread on the needle. Stick the point of the foam on the point of the needle. Fold the foam around the needle. Bring the thread over the top and around the foam. Segment one. Make another wrap at the same location. Bring the thread under the foam about 1/8 inche toward the vise and bring it over the foam again. Segment two. Etc. Etc. Whip finish when you think you have enough segments. Pull it off the needle. You want to leave about 2 inches of unsegmented foam attached to the segments. This will form the main body of the dragonfly, which you will segment also, just bigger segments.
Here’s a pattern of mine that I use for a small red damsel fly.
The tail is pheasant tail fibres dyed red, the body is red floss (tied over the fibres) and the thorax is the but of the fibres wrapped. Hackle is furnace. I leave the wings off. Fish don’t seem to mind, but if you wanted to tie some in, just tie in grizzle hackles along the back (for damsel) or two a side, spent, for a dragon. The wings might mess up casting though, but I’ve not tried them so I could be wrong.
- Jeff
Very neat fly there Jeff. I’m sure it will do the job. Jax
Thanks Jax. Mostly a still water pattern. First time I tried it I just flicked it out to see how it floated, and as soon as it touched the water this trout smashed it violently! I wasn’t expecting anything and it scared the bejeezis out of me! It’s done well out at Parkinson’s Lake, near Waiuku, where there are a lot of the little Red Damsel’s around. I know a spot near Dickie’s Flat where I’ve seen trout leaping out of the water to grab the Red Damsels as they fly around and want to try this there one day.
- Jeff
Hi Jeff; I haven’t been up to Dickies Flat for ages, guess it slipped below the radar some but I must make a point of getting back up there for a late afternoon/evening fish. As you say it can be quite exciting up there when the fish come out to play. Your fly should be high on the menu for the fish. Jax
Here’s a blog I did on laminated wings for an adult Damsel last year.
http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/entry.php?220-Damsel-Fly-lamenated-wings-glass-bead-eyes
I cant see the pics that should be with it, but I’m at work and some stuff gets blocked. I’ll check it tonight form home.
Hi Bass Bug,
Hmmm, I didn’t see any pictures either? Wonder if some of the images got lost in a server shift?
- Jeff
I don’t see pics either.
Hi Jax,
I’ve not been to Dickies flat in 4 or 5 years now. Keep intending to go, but with the little one it’s not been easy to get out. Still, she’s getting old enough now that she can have some fun outside so it may be possible soon - when some sun shows up anyway!
I’ve done well in the riffle just up from the walking bridge using some soft hackles just under the surface in the evening rise. Great fun. Down the walk a wee ways was a section with a very deep pool and the fish were leaping and grabbing the damsels out of the air. Was a great site to see, but very frustrating as they were interested in nothing we had in our boxes and we had no adult damsel patterns! It was after that trip that I tied up the above pattern, but never got back there again to try it. go figure.
- Jeff
Lamenating 2" mesh ribbon (found at most Michaels, JoAnne’s etc) to peralecence opaque mylar with Fleximent makes durable and somewhat realistic wings. I say “somewhat”, because the distinct mesh threads ‘suggests’ veining and the mylar gives that peralecence look in reflected light. A 7 or 8"" long strip will yield about a dozen pairs of wings if cut properly. I cut the strip down to 2.5" long strips, fold in half across to yeild 3 pair.
Wing_prep_1.JPG
Gold 1 " nylon mesh ribbon, Flash back (Mylar)
Wing_prep_2.JPG
Cut a 6" piece of ribbon and trim off ribbed edges. Cut a matching size piece of Flash back and glue together with Flex-Seal/Fleximent. Use enough flex adhesive to saturate ribbon and ‘squeegee’ off with finger. Pin flat to cork to dry to prevent curling.
Wing_prep_3.JPG
Finish laminated materials will have shiny translucent on one side and satin ‘veined’ look on other side. Fold piece in half (for symmetrical wings) and cut to desired shape. Top and bottom choice is personal preference.
The eyes are glass beads melted on 40# mono. After melting one eye, I use hackle pliers up against the first eye with the second eye opposite the pliers and pointing straight up. This sets the gap bewteen the eyes to be the width of the pliers tips. Using larger or smaller pliers with larger or smaller beads and mono, will give a range of finished eye sizes.
Eyes_1.jpg
Chameleon 40# mono cut into 1" pieces. Glass beads (color to match fly)
Eyes_2.jpg
A- 1" piece of mono with 2 glass beads.
B- One end of mono melted, first bead threaded on mono.
C- Bead heated to fuse to mono.
D- Second bead added.
E- Hold with hackle pliers, trim mono to ?? past 2nd bead and melt.
F- Finished eyes
Eyes_3.jpg
Finished eyes
here’s a damsel that’ll convert to dragon very well. material list and instruction here:
http://www.flypatternbook.net/blued.htm
Wes, Nice fly and your Pattern Book is really cool! Nicely done.
Those are both very neat patterns! Nice.
- Jeff