Ed Shenk swears by the “epoxy splice” to join line to leader. I checked through the FAOL archives, as well as online, but can’t really find a good description or “how-to.” Seemingly, its stronger than any knot. Anyone have any thoughts?
I happened to have Shenk’s book at arm’s length, so I looked at his comments on page 74. He doesn’t say how to make it. If memory serves me correctly it requires shaving down the butt end of the leader to make it fit through a needle hole in the end of the line and it may require a pin vise to apply the pressure to the epoxy joint once it is completed. Hardly worth the effort if you’re not fishing with very short rods on tiny, brushy streams, like he fished. A properly made nail, or tube, knot, pliobonded should be sufficient. You would be better using your time trying to stay sane while learning the Turle knot.
The method I am familiar with I learned from one of Dave Whitlock’s books, but it will not work on all fly lines, only the ones with a braided cores.
First, remove the outer coating for about 3/4" by dipping the end in some acetone and stripping the coating off with your thumb nail.
Take some sand paper and lightly scuff about 3/4" of the butt section of your leader. Cut the very end of the butt at a 45 degree angle to form a point. Insert the butt into the center of the braided core and work it into the line ‘inch worm’ fashion, pushing a little then smoothing the bulge back along the leader.
Once the leader is imbedded for about 3/4" you can coat the splice with adhesive, I prefer a flexible super glue like ‘Zap-a-Gap’ but epoxy works as well.
An alternative method is to force a sewing needle into the fly line, starting about 3/4" back from the tip end, enter the line from the side and force the needle thru the core and out the tip. Thread the tippet end of the leader thru the needles eye and pull it thru. Coat the last 3/4" of the leader butt with adhesive just before you pull it into the line.
Due to the ‘chinese handcuff’ gripping action of the braided core, I find it easier to 'push" the leader using the first method instead of trying to ‘pull’ it thru as in the second method.
I have also seen this done using a 3" long piece of Cortland ‘catfish line’ ( a braided dacron line, in about 40 lbs test.) Just slip the braided piece half way onto the fly line, then halfway onto the leader. Then apply adhesive.
The Whitlock connection described above is simply amazing and well worth a try IMO. I’ve gotten lazy though and switched to leader links from Eagle Claw though. The Whitlock connection is especially useful in the winter when ice in the guides is a problem or when you fish mossy/weedy waters because it is essentially seemless and doesn’t seem to hang up in the muck or on in ice in the guides.
Warren F.
Bozeman, MT