Kwethluk River, AK trip report w/PaPa Bears pt 1

Joey and I finished our voyage down the Kwethluk River on Aug 10. We had to work hard to keep our trip alive. It was hard to find someone to accompany us o this trip due to current economic conditions. Joey and I considered making the trip alone but in the end Frank Rodriguez offered to join our party. I?m sure glad Frank came along because it would have been real tough with just the two of us. We all left Sac town at 10:00 am on July 28 and all the connecting flights went off without a hitch. We arrived in Bethel around 8pm after we gained an extra hour. Steve and Robin Powers were waiting for us at the airport with 3 pickup trucks as a large group arrived to float the Kisaralik. The lodge is starting to feel like a home away from home. We scrambled till dark converting our suit cases into dry bags. Hit the sac around 0030 -0100. The Kisaralik group was flying out first so we had a little extra time to resort our equipment. Papa Bears has 2 planes now so things move very smoothly and quickly. The Kisaralik group ran into bad weather and was dealing with 70mph winds. The weather in Bethel seemed fine at the time. They were not able to land at Kisaralik Lake and the young members on the planes made a decision to land on a boundary lake with a ?+ mile portage. This did not make the old guys at the lodge very happy. In the end I heard it turned well.

We were told our plane was 30 mins out so we had to scramble and get wadered up for the flight. Your adrenaline starts pumping at this point. We loaded up the pickup and drove to the Kuskokwim River to meet the plane. The wind was blowing more than we realized and there was a significant chop on the water. The plane landed and we had our hands full positioning the plane with the winds and waves. We loaded the plane and we were off in no time. Take off was not as bad as it looked but we were dealing with 27mph winds. We could see white caps on the lakes below. Boris was up front with us and that there chance we may not be able to land at our lake but he would take us to a pike lake to fish for the day if that was the case. This was my bumpiest ride so far in the beaver and we were all feeling a little car sick. Joey sat up front with Boris and decided to ask what the pedals on the floor do, so Boris took a move from Karl Powers and showed us by pushing them to the floor. We told Joey no more questions as that did not help with the ride. Boris lined up the beaver with the boundary lake and we dropped in with no issues. We waved good bye and started our own 200 yd portage up one side and down the other. I should mention that the trail was slippery as snot and when had to walk in the bushes for traction.

It took us an hour or so to get all our stuff to the river. Frank had opted to bring his personal raft which utilized 15ft pontoons. Frank and I worked on the Frame and Joey pumped up the pontoons. Frank and I were engulfed with the raft when we encountered our first of 5 brown bears. A bear decided to cross the river about 20 yards upstream and upwind of us. Joey heard the bear enter the water but we did not and Joey was kind of nice enough to let us know he was there. We made some noise and he continued on his way crossing and scampered off. Why is it that the gun is never loaded when you encounter your first bear. We finished packing the raft and were off heading down the Kwethluk with a nice wind to push us down.

Joey and Boris with the 1959 beaver.

Papa Bear?s second plane

Our ride leaving us at the boundary lake

The wind was not warm it felt like an Arctic blast but it sure was helping us make good time down the river. We stopped once about 2 miles in at location that was supposed to be good fishing. We ate some lunch and readjusted the load on the raft till we liked it. It was so winding casting was very difficult. The river was off color and had a chalky bluish/green tinge to it with poor visibility. Sure looked nice but fishing sucked. It did not take us long to come up on a group of 8 who decided to spend an extra night to wait the storm out. They were very nice and offered us drink and food. They were from Anchorage and have been doing trips like these for years. We asked if they had any luck fishing and they said no. We talked for a few minutes and we continued on to get a little distance between us. At this point Joey was shivering across from me in the raft and I began to have second thoughts about bringing him. I ran into to real bad weather in 2005 on the Arolik and started to wonder what I got myself into this time. We floated for several more hours and found a nice gravel bar to set up camp. Made a quick dinner and went to bed. The next morning we could see new snow on the very distant mountain peaks. Armed Joey with several more layers of fleece and off we raced to Crooked Creek where the fishing was supposed to get better and it did.

Shot of river above Cr Creek and you can see some of the color to it.

We put in a long day and made it to Crooked Creek which was about the size of the Kwethluk but crystal clear. You could see the color on one side and clear side for several miles from the confluence. We decided to test the waters and had Joey throw a streamer on a tail out seam. He hooked and landed an awesome bow and from that point the fishing just kept getting better.

Joey?s first fish of the trip took a streamer

Our second camp was below crooked creek on a bar with access to many braids. It was still cold and raining from light to heavy so we had to take advantage of small weather break to set up and take down camp. We were lucky and never had to put up or take down our tents in the rain but came very close few times. Joey started fishing the seam below our camp site and got his first grayling. We all ended up getting a few grayling but decided to pack up the next morning keep moving after a little fishing.

Joey?s first Grayling

It was still cold and raining but Joey never got cold like he did on the first day. Once fish were caught he did not have any issues with the cool weather. As it turned out we had to endure 3 days of chilly weather with light to heavy rains. After that the weather just started to get better and we would see the sun. Some days too much sun and we never would have thought how hot 65 degrees can feel. I kept a journal for the first tine on this trip and saved some memories of each day and camp site. We ended up spending 11 nights and only had one 2 day camp. I think I lost about 10lbs in this trip since you burn way more calories than you eat. We had de-hydrated food for dinners and we squeezed in a few salmon. Instant oatmeal for breakfast and salme/chesse for lunch and cliff bars to fill the gaps. Very little time was used to prep, eating and clean up meals, which meant more time for fishing. This was the first trip where I did not get too sore from fishing. Joey and I had done a lot of fishing prior to the trip and that may have help. Was a little sore after the portage but only lasted a day. Frank and I shared the rowing and soon we were fighting over who got to row because you sure slept well on the days you rowed.

Joey with a nice bow a tad bigger than the average size

First arctic char or larger dollie

Here?s a spot we stooped along the way and you can get an idea of what our raft looked like loaded. Joey and Frank were tight line fishing below and Frank was amazed at Joey?s ability to catch fish after fish. We started using him as a gauge to test spots, throw his out line and if no fish in a couple casts we would move on. I fished streamers above and hooked several large bows. I don?t remember if I landed them but if I did Frank has the pictures on his camera.

Our next camp turned out to be a good fishing site and we were able to have our first camp fire. We found a place that held some Sockeye, Chum, Grayling and Rainbows with a possibility of Silvers. We had a late start that morning due to heavy rains. Joey landed several Sockeye?s as he seems to have a way to **** off fish and get them to grab. He was not able to get the chum to bite. We were sitting around the fire at 11pm and Joey still had not got his chum so I suggested he use the green cone black body egg sucking leach I tied for the trip. He hooked 3 and landed 2 in about 15 mins. Once he accomplished that feat we enjoyed our fire till after midnight.


Looks like they both have a smile on their faces

These were the freshest Chum I have seen on several trips

Even I got lucky and picked up a hot buck who made a great run

Frank hooked a small jack king salmon and when I landed the boat on a gravel bar the fish came unbuttoned. The funny thing was he stayed in the area and a few casts latter Joey had him hooked up a second time.

Jack King Salmon

Dad with a nice bow.

Adult King that kicked Joeys butt

I think it will take too long to try and go camp by camp so I will try to summarize some of the highlights of the trip. Joey was able to catch and release 8 new species of fish on this trip (Grayling, Dollie Varden, Arctic Char, Pike, Sockeye, Chum, Silver, Pink & King salmon). Leopard Trout are pretty nice and hard to describe.

The first 25 miles above crooked creek were colored by glacial runoff and we did not catch a single fish but we were not fishing too hard. We were able to make it to crooked creek on our second day due to the winds pushing us down stream. The fishing picked up and we ran into several King runs where all you need to do was drop an egg for large rainbows, grayling and dollies. Double hook-up every time. The King runs seemed to be in places where there were no suitable placed to stop and fish so we just drifted through them. We did hook a few kings as they will take eggs but they were hard to impossible to land on a 7wt. We did try streamers against the banks with pretty good success. We also did some serious mousing and Joey lost many flies to trees and logs. I would suggest that it?s never too soon to start mousing and make sure you have a large supply. The egg thing gets old after a while and the quality fish on streamer and mice make up for the volume. We ran into some silvers above the weir but not huge numbers. We all could catch a fish or two and then had to rest the hole for a while. Some of the brightest silver’s were higher up in the river. Below the fish weir the river widened up and started to become silver water but there were some pike in Magic creek. Make a note not camp to close below the weir as the dead salmon seem to wash up on the gravel bars. Not only do they stink but we had a bear that came back 3 times even though we tried to chase him off. He came back during the night and walked the coastline looked for the best of the decaying fish. We had issues with bears as we were always down wind so they could never catch our scent and sound did not travel very well up wind. We camped one night at Magic creek to fish for pike and it had the best silver hole we came across so far. The camp site was lumpy and no wood but it had good fishing. While we were eating our dinner a group of 3 locals (White guys who live in Bethel) in a jet boat pull into our silver hole and start fishing before we had a chance. They yell up to us that we picked a good camp site and that there was a great silver hole. All we could do was watch as they kept every fish well in the 20?s even though the limit was 5 each. We were not too upset since we had caught several silvers already and Joey and I had never caught a pike. So we rowed our unloaded raft past the jet boat up into Magic Creek. Frank rowed so Joey and I could catch our first Pike on a fly. We both did and the jet boat left after about 4 hours. The silver hole fisted pretty good in the morning. The further down we went the muddier the silver holes became and camping on holes became more difficult. I got stuck real bad in the mud and had one leg go down above my knee. I became exhausted trying to get out with my boot intact. I ended up knelling on one of the oars while Frank dug my foot out with the other oar. I was breathless by the time we were done and made think twice about doing the trip with just Joey and myself. The silvers were very hot and we had several that got leader wrapped around the gills and we were forced to eat them for dinner. I think the Kwethluk had the best fishing I have seen after 3 trips and there are some big trout and I only wished we targeted them sooner.

First Silver of Trip

Sockeye in same hole



Someone said you can?t catch silver?s on chartreuse! Looks like you can



Moon rising over the camp fire

Joey?s nice bow taken on a Caribou Mouse tied by Frank R

Silver on his Spey rod

Nice Buck Silver

Grayling that took a mouse

First pike x 2

Eagles Nest

Happy Camper

I guess some of you are wondering if I would take a 13 year kid again on such a trip. I think it depends on the kid and Joey is way into fishing. It was a lot of work with just the 3 of us but he never complained the whole time. Not even when he was shivering on the first day. PaPa Bears offers deals for kids and I used sky miles to get him a free ticked. So the cost to bring him was minimal except for equipment and clothing. We shared a tent so there was not much more gear than I would bring if I went alone. I think it was an experience of a lifetime and he has come back a changed young man. It takes a lot to survive out there for that many days and changing camps every day and you test yourself like you never before have. I?m still recovering and it?s been over a week. Forgot to mention that we had a kick butt jet boat ride back to Bethel where we averaged 40mph on the glass like river. Not sure if and when we will get a chance to go back but Joey said he is ready to go now. He is currently considering trying out for the Team USA Youth fly-fishing team. We missed the tryouts that were held in Montana while we were attending this trip. They will have some more tryouts this spring and we hope to attend.

Tight Lines,

Jet

[QUOTE=Jet369;313141I think it was an experience of a lifetime and he has come back a changed young man. [/QUOTE]

That’s funny that you would say that. As I read through the report, from the first to the last, I was thinking to myself how much more confident and mature he looked with each new picture. As they say in the commercial “Priceless”.

What a super trip for all of you, but for your son, the trip which made him a man.
Way to go dad.
Hugs,
LF

Jet,

Wow, what a great trip. Thanks for taking us along on a trip of a lifetime. I’ve always wanted to take a trip like that to Alaska. Really neat to see pics of someone who has done such a trip. Loved the pics of your son. They grow up fast so enjoy while you can. Thanks again.

Beaver

What a fantastic report and experience for you both. Wonderful, and certainly worth doing again if you get the chance. If he maintains his interest in fly fishing, perhaps when he’s 16 or 17. It would be a fantastic experience all over again for a young man at that age.

  • Jeff

would you please share with us more info about the fishing? rod weights,lines, and flies/
also interested to hear about the camping and food. Your pictures may be as close as some
of ever get to this adventure. thanks

I second this thought! :cool:

looks like a blast thnx for the pictures

Joey used:
9’ 6/7 wt Sevier Blank and Tioga reel
9’6" 7Wt Scott A2 and Galvin reel

I fished a 9’6" 6wt Sage and a 9’ 7wt Scott

Our friend liked using an 8Wt Lamiglas rod on the Silvers so he could land them faster

You can use 5-6 wts when fishing eggs, mice & streamers for Rainbows, Grayling and Dollies
I would say a 7wt is as light as you would like to fish for silvers. Some fish are real hot and make it tough but it is a lot of fun. The safest way to land a Silver is to beach it and grab the leader and unhook it, otherwise they can get between you legs or other directions and snap your rod pretty quick. Some folks may take offense to this but it?s the way that has worked well for us. In some places it?s too muddy to get into the water with the fish.

Flies: Trout & others
Beads melted to hooks, Pegged beads or multiple beads. Only allowed a single hook.
Mice or Gurgler style mice
Streamer: Bow River buggers w/cone, egg sucking leach or you favorite streamers. We found sculptin type patterns worked well with hair heads. A small white bugger with a pink head worked great and was way more fun than fishing beads.

Silvers:
Pink over White Clousers worked well
Pink Bunny Leaches
Pink Gurgler poppers
Other colors worked ok but pink worked the best. I would add some weight but I did not like the heavy lead eyes as you cast a lot your casts can go from great to poor depending on how tired you get and those heavy flies start getting real close to your head. My son was catching Silvers on a floating line with a 1 ft leader. It just kept getting shorter but he was still catching fish. The adults used intermediate and sink tips but the kid still out fished us most of the time. Soon we were using floating lines with short leaders. I used a 5 ft t8 head I made but it was not really necessary.

Fishing from boat:
We had 2 up front and for a while we would fish beads or one on beads and one streamer. Beads were easy just drop to the bottom below King redds. Need to use big split shot or we had up to 5 tin bb’s. Bead fishing was fun for a while and you could pick up some 20" fish and we had double hooks up all the time. Streamer or mice on the banks was less productive but the quality of the fish was better than on beads. We also had fun with the white bugger and pink head fished in the King runs. The bows would chase those flies a long way and it you missed just toss it back and they go after it again. Same for mousing, those fish would come off the bottom 5 ft or more and stayed up so you could try multiple times. Some times one guy would get the fish up and the second one would get the fish. We developed a technique for streamer/mice fishing where you just have out a rods length of line and just slap it against the bank and used the rod tip to make it swim away. Much more control of flies and you did not loose as many but you will still loose a lot fishing from the boat.

Food:
You can bring what ever you want but we used de-hydrated food like Mountain House or Backpacker’s pantry. The Bears do not mess with people food and are pretty much afraid of people. Many bring in normal food on ice but we want to spend more time fishing and less on food prep and clean-up. Breakfast was one pack instant oat meal, 1 cup granola cereal and some powered milk. I made them all up in advanced and we just added hot water and served. Only needed a spoon for all meals except when we had fresh salmon. Lunch I vacuumed sealed hot salami and cheese into group portions. I also vacuumed sealed sour dough bread. It gets flat and mushy but still takes like bread and lasts the whole trip. We also have cliff bars for lunch if we did not want to stop or in between meals. Dinners were de-hydrated meals with 2 servings per pack. They are around 500-750 calories for 2 servings and were all I could eat. Joey could not finish his in the beginning but at the end he was able to finish his meals. I lost weight because we were putting in 14-18 hour days and my dinners were 500-700 calories and I could barely finish them. They taste pretty good and all you have to clean is your spoon. If we had a good fire we would burn our garbage otherwise we had a garbage bag we carried with us. All hot meals consisted of boiling some water and server.

Camping:
You should have a good 3 season tent and good stakes. We had pretty good weather and not to bad of winds. I have seen winds where a friend tent would collapse until he attached all of the guide lines. It needs to be water tight as it rains every day and during the night. You are going to be taking it down and putting it up every day some it should be easy to assemble. Some times you only have 5 - 10 minutes between showers if you are lucky and we were on this trip. I have taken mine down and put up during heavy rains. It is nice to have a shammy to mop up tent or dry out side prior to taking down. We used backpacking style pad which need to be inflated every camp. I’ll work on an adapter for the boat pump next time. There are some self inflating one’s available but the big foam ones are heavy and take up space.

Equipment Damage toll:
No rods were broken

Reels seemed to take a beating. Sand would get into them and cause issues. My son’s Tioga sounded like a crumpling aluminum can after a while. We rinsed as best we could and took a part at home. My Ross Evolution 3.5 had a free spooling issue after a King taught me who was boss. We ended up taking it apart with a tiefast tool since leatherman’s did not fit. Did not find any dirt but it worked after we cleaned it. It was nice since this happened on day 4.

Chairs:
I bought the cheap folding chairs that have no arms for around $5 at Walmart. I have used the before with not issues because they are light. I would leave them behind to keep my weight down coming home. But on this trip I broke one on day 6 reaching for something when the legs sunk in the gravel. Broke a bar in half and destroyed a plastic connector. Joey had to use the ice chest for a chair. The second chair was just about ruined on the last day of the trip. They were rated for 225lb and I’m about 235-240. I was not planning on bringing them back but never had the fall a part like this before.

Leaders:
We bought 2 Rio Toothy Critter leaders 15-20lb for Pike. Both failed on fish at the clips. Joey’s failed on a large silver but help up pretty well for a while but the clip straightened out. Mine came unclipped on an 18-20" Pike when he rolled. Pretty disappointed since we spent about $8 each for these leaders. I seem to buy a spool of fluorocarbon and have issues with knots and breakage. Maxima is all you need 10, 12 & 15 lb. 10lb works great for all streamer fishing. I would have some softer leader for the bead fishing like normal 3x tippet.

Rod Cases:
I’ve have used a Harding & Son’s case for 3 trips with no issues. It has a small water proof flap to cover the zipper and is pretty water resistant. I pick up a Sage case for my son at the last minute and it was $20-25 more than the Harding. It leaked real bad and we forgot to remove the rods from the socks so it made a mess. It was hand carried on the plane and strapped to side of raft entire trip. The Sage stitching is fraying and looks like it will come apart. The Harding kept my rods dry in the socks and does not have a loose thread. A PVC pipe with threaded ends will work but the rod tubes with handles and straps made carrying them on the planes easy.

I hope this answered the questions you had. Send me a pm if you have more.

Tight Lines,

Jet

Jet, Awesome report. Looks like the whole bunch of you have enough memories for a lifetime. Thank you for sharing with us. Jim

Outstanding, thanks for the report and all the information…:slight_smile:

Steve Molcsan

It’s okay to beach a salmon if you are going to harvest it. But if you are going to release the fish you have to be more careful on how you treat a salmon or you could be cited if an enforcement officer is present. (And I sure wouldn’t be posting about it on the internet)

From the Alaska regulations:

“Molesting of fish: Molesting or impeding spawning or the natural movement of fish contrary to lawful methods and means of sport fishing is prohibited.”

“Molesting means the harassing, disturbing, or interfering with fish by any means, including the use of any missile or object not established as legal gear; molesting includes dragging, kicking, throwing, striking, or otherwise abusing a fish which is intended to be released.”

I’ve heard of fish and wildlife enforcement officers issuing citations for molesting fish for fishermen who remove salmon from the water for a picture and then releasing them.

I often see spincasters pull salmon up on the bank, step on them while jerking the hook out with pliers, and then kick them back into the water. And that is all after they have purposely snagged the fish. Everytime I see that I hope that a law enforcement officer in plain clothes is also witnessing it.

im sure they are aware of the regulations artic…

btw, nice job jet!!! great report.

thanks so much for the detailled follow up. Now I can dream and plan.