My friend has developed arthritis and asked me that question but I have no idea what the answer is. Would someone have any idea and maybe what the variables are ? Shorter are usually faster but would that make a difference. Thanks for any thoughts.
Deepcreek,
Personally, I find that I have to work harder with the shorter rod. Also some 9 footers may actually be lighter which I would think would be a factor. Of course, the longer the rod the wider the arc which could put more pressure at the fulcrum (wrist)? Other than my opinion, which is not based on medical fact, I really don’t know. Perhaps a chiropractor or someone in sports medicine could answer this definitively. Anything I do medically involves a lot of pain and duct tape. Sorry!
Best regards, Dave S. (fishdog54)
For casting, I don’t think there’s that much of a difference between an 8’6" and a 9 footer. When you get into the shorter, 7’6"-7’ range, then there’s a difference…but I don’t know if it will help with arthritis. I would think that a lighter rod (overall weight and swing weight) would be the ticket… or duct tape. lol.
It might be worth while trying a different style of grip if the arthritis is in his hand or wrist. This is especially true if he is currently using a cigar type grip. I don’t think that six inches shorter will make much difference in a graphite rod.
I would think that force on an artheritic hand equals pain. Does for me anyway. Therefore the lower the force, the less the pain. That would hint at the lightest rod possible (and reel too) and the softest rod possible. The obvious way to go is towards lighter weight ratings i.e use a 4 wt instead of a 6 and so forth. But going down in rod and line rating will bring along the obvious limitations so lets talk about a fixed rod weight - say six wt.
Six weights will come in a number of types. Manufacturers will refer to them as fast vs relaxed or maybe even tip flex vs full flex. Bottom line is some are stiffer than others. When making a cast of a given distance with a stiffer vs a softer rod, a caster will automatically adjust his rod arc to get the same casting distance with each. This is because he is trying to put the same energy into the line regardless of the rod. Energy delivered to the line is equal to the work put into it or essentially the force on the line times the length of the casting stroke. On the softer rod, the force would be less and the distance greater vs a shorter stroke and a higher force on the stiffer one. Ergo, less hand force on the softer rod over a greater distance.
Now all of the above is a lot of glittering generalities but I think directionally it is correct. But be careful. Manytimes the lower material modulus sometimes used in the graphite on the slower rods will yeild a higher overall rod weight offsetting the lower force used to accelerate the line. In order to really understand it all you need to learn about the actual design of flyrods. The Technology of Fly Rods: An In-Depth Look at the Design of the Modern Fly Rod, Its History and Its Role in Fly Fishing by Don Phillips is a good place to start or how about some articles I wrote a long time ago on http://www.hatofmichigan.org/e-book.html in the Mechanics of casting downloads. Or maybe Bill Hanneman’s stuff on “Common Cents” (google same).
But for sure, use the lowest rod weight rating and the lightest rod actual weight and the lightest reel and the softest action that you can get away with for your type of fishing. The light rod and reel is very important because the most violent action comes in the stop rather than the actual cast. Probably stay away from bamboo and glass because they tend to be a little heavier than graphite rods. (I’ll bet this last statement draws some fire.)
Just my $.02.
Godspeed and remember to treat those artheritic hands with liberal doses of alcohol from the inside.
Bob
From a guy who is coming up for an arthritic joint replacement, the answer would be NO . what matters is a balanced rod that feels, light in hand. Grip size also matters as joints become painful and swell . I use a 3m product called TRANSPORE tape it breathes, in my case i tape my index finger to the middle finger. Duct tape in a pinch. tell him good luck
One quick suggestion, would trying a new grip (hand grip, not cork grip) make any difference? For example, is he casting with his thumb on top of the cork grip? He might want to try the three point grip - http://fishfliesandwater.com/casting-mending/three-point-grip/
One other more radical suggestion, if it really comes down to him thinking about not fishing any more, he may want to try a Tenkara rod. They are very light in hand, and I find the casting stroke to be slightly different than that used in casting a rod and reel. It’s a very gentle movement that may not cause as much stress. If he’d like to give that a try, have him contact me and I can work something out with him to take a test spin.
In any case, hope he finds a workable solution.
The ergonomic on lots if not most fly rod grips are backwards. A full wells grip is better for gripping the way the hand is made. The index and middle fingers are better for control; the ring and little fingers have great gripping power. (Squeeze your index finger with the the index and middle and then the ring and little fingers to see the difference.)
You might want to consider the casting technique, video your friend and compare it to a pro to be sure the hand is not being used too much.
No expertise here but simple physics makes me believe all things being equal, a longer rod means more weight further away from your wrist and subsequently more compensation required to achieve balance.
I have a few matched rods; an 8’6" 5wt and the same rod in a 9’0" 5wt. The same goes for an 7’6", 8’0" and 8’6" 5wt. In all cases the longer rods SEEM to me to be more tiring to use all day when I am casting the same distances and doing the same type of fishing.
YMMV
Longer is slower and therefore easier on the user one would have to think… Keeping the outfit to a med light, say 4-5 or even a 6 weight would be best to I’d think as ya actually have to work harder with lighter gear to cast heaiver flies…So unless your planning to go all out dry/wet fly only it’s best to be a bit over than under in most cases… My opinion in a nutshell…
Ever try a 10’ single- handed rod? Can be tough on the wrist after a while.
Chuck
Ever try a 10’ single- handed rod? Can be tough on the wrist after a while.
I use them steelheading and i’ve never had a problem with them. I hope I didn’t just jinx myself. lol.
From a ember who has RA. Longer equates to more torque and therefore more joint strain but it doesn’t become really apparent until you get into that 7 weight rod and especially up. The difference between a 9 ft 9 wt, three piece RPLX, was very pronounced over the much lighter and a bit shorter two piece 8’9" RPLX, very noticable. I also tried exactly the same rod with both being two pieces a couple of year later and found exactly the same results. Physics says it must be so but doesn’t tell us exactly how much or how much a given person will feel. Ten ft road really amplifiy the difference over a 9 ft rod as I’ve checked that out many times. The ten can be a joint wrecker, (elbows, wrists, shoulders) for someone with joint problems to start. Got with the 8 1/2 although they might be harder to find as 9 is more common and never look back for the heavier weight rods. For 6 wt and under the length will not matter as much depending on severity of the Arthritis. Another factor that’s pure physics is the stiffness of the rod, within reason. Stiffer equates to a longer fulcrum therefore is harder on the joints. I favor a medium action, light rod in 8.5-9 ft for general use but most often settle with a nine as they are much easier to find.
deepcreek,
In the past I saw a product being sold that attaches to your wrist and the rod which was supposed to keep you from using too much wrist. I’m wondering if it could help? Ah ha, found one in the 2010 Cabelas fly fishing catalog - called the Wulff Wristlock - $14,95. I have checked a number of other sources for this product, but no luck, just Cabelas.
Best regards, Dave S. (fishdog54)
The bigger the wt rod the more aggravated Arthur gets for me. I recently got a couple of Switch Rods to spread the casting load across both hands, arms, and shoulders. A big relief.
The real issue is finding ways to keep fly fishing.
I’ve had a painful condition called dystonia in my wrist for many years and have gone to lighter rods and reels–specifically from a 9 ft. 5 wt to a 8.5 4 wt. and a 8 .5 3 wt. What I’ve found most helpful is a simple wrist brace (Mueller made the one I’m using and I got it from an online speciality house, but have been told a like product can be had at Wal-Mart).
The wrist brace is so important in lessening pain that I wll not fish without it. Three hours of casting is still my limit, though, and after 5 hours on the SF of the Rio Grande today, I quit, even though trout were still taking, because of the pain (and oh, yes, the 17 trout brought to hand contributed to the strain).
I don’t know for sure, but I don’t believe there could be much difference with the same rod just in the shorter length. I do think that the 9’ rod would roll cast easier and that might help a lot. I also think that the line might make a bigger difference than the rod length, as different line cast easier at certain ranges. Also shorting up the cast would help greatly, much easier to cast 30 feet than 60 feet with almost any combination. I would think that the bigger issue would be the strain from the actual catching of the fish, because with any rod at all you still will be fighting the fish with just one hand at least part of the time. For that the longer rod might have the advantage.
No one has asked which joints are arthritic and whether your friend has rheumatoid or degenerative arthritis. I would think that rather than changing the rod length, a modification of his casting stroke might be a better solution.
Is he a wrist caster? Is the arthritis in the wrist? Maybe changing the stroke from the wrist to the shoulder or elbow would be of benefit? It could benefit him to look at his stroke dynamic and his arthritic joints to see if there is way for him to cast without suing those joints as much.
Also rather than rod length, a change in rod action to a softer action would spread out the force on his joints over a longer stroke and make casting easier on his joints. Bobinmich mentioned this and I think he is correct. I also agree on the lightest rod and reel combo.
I’ve had some shoulder problems over the years that have allow me person experience with casting problems related to aging joints. I personally don’t think that a rod which is six inches shorter is going to make any difference one way or the other. As others have suggested, a lighter weight rod will make all the difference in the world. I can cast a #4 weight all day but I will pay dearly for casting a #9 weight for just a couple of hours. I also find a mid-flex action to be easier on the joints than really fast rods. Also I would suggest giving up the Clousers and super-heavy flies. Limit casting distance if possible. There a lot of difference between flipping out a thirty foot cast and trying to get every inch of distance that your rod has to give. Summary: Lighter weight rod, softer action and shorter distances will help a lot. Just my 2% of a dollar; I’m sure others will disagree. 8T 
I’ve been experimenting. With both a bad shoulder (3 surgeries rotator cuff) and arthur in the hands, I’ve found so far the old Orvis Far & Fine, 7ft something, 5 weight, reasonably soft works the best. It won’t allow me to throw the whole line and can only handle minimal double haul, but that was the intention. I can fish with it. You might want to consider something similar. Just keep doing it, okay?