Hi there.
Has anyone built or know how to build a rod to use for practising indoors?
Maybe something similar to fly-o rod from Wulff (http://www.sportfish.co.uk/product/3489 … e_Rod.html)
I’m basically looking for the measurements for the rod and which kind of line to use with it.
I know summer is coming bun mabe next winter…
thorarinna:
A friend of mine who owns a fly shop showed me several years ago that I could just take the tip section of a fly rod and tie some thick yarn to the tip. It seemed too simple, but it worked fine. I used the same thing when I was teaching a Boy Scout flyfishing class. Doesn’t look very elegant without the grip but it works. I was using the tip section of a 2 piece rod; if I were using a 4 piece rod, I would probably use the last 2 sections. Basically, that’s what Joan Wulff uses. She just had a grip section put on.
Larry Compton
Ok, I will try to find the thick yarn somewhere.
I can put a handle on later (if I can find the yarn).
Buy a length of “egg yarn” from the fly shop. It’s the perfect length and thickness. I did this to replace the yarn on my Joan Wulff rod that had worn out and broken.
I use the front section of my two piece 8 weight steel head rod just like canoeman said. You learn in short order about open and tailing loops. I use a piece of swanandaze instead of yarn. You can use a piece out of an old 8 wt. line too. - just cut off the taper and use the level “belly” section. I have a 5 foot 3 wt that I overlined to 5 wt that I will try inside. I’ll let you know.
Do you have a HS gym or a senior center with a gym. Both are good places to practice the “real” thing.
Bobinmich
Does the rod need to flex??? Or is it a matter of timing to make the yarn cast? The reason I ask is that I have a butt section from a 3 piece boo that I would like to use for this.
The rod section I use does load a little, but not like the actual rod. The swanandaze is heavier than yarn and forms a loop better. Use a bright color so you can see it. It is really more for studying loop formation and getting the stroke length, ark, and the stop right. I have some articles on my website that explain what I think is going on. Not too many people agree with them or like them for that matter, but it will help you break down the cast into it’s components, i.e. load, accelerate, stop, reach. Then when you use the practice rod, you are thinking about the individual components. It is helpful sometimes to cast the section side arm so you can see the loop form. Try to keep the stroke to about a 70 degree included angle - that’s 11:00 to a little after one in clock talk, to see the proper loop form. Keep your stroke smoothly accelerating to a brisk stop. But you probably already know all this stuff anyway. Look at http://www.hatofmichigan.org on the e-book page under other stuff - The Mechanics of Flycasting - it might be of help, or not.
Bobinmich
Hi guys.
This is a good starting point for me, I will have a try.