My old vise has been in use for about 10 years now. The both sets of jaws are pretty warn out. I can still tie larger hooks but the smaller stuff just doesn’t hold any more. I think I paid around 30-40 for it. Not sure on the brand but it says Master on the clamp. Very similar to this one. I think at this point I have gotten my money out of it.
I am currently eying this one for a replacement. What are your thoughts on this vice? Quite a few people from a local forum recommend it.
Thanks!!
Borrow one from one of your locals and try it out for a couple days to see how you like it. I have tied on a lot of vises covered with bells and whistles, and still prefer my old Thompson, ten years old and counting, which replaced an identical Thomspon, twenty plus years and the cam wore out (and it was cheaper to buy a new vise than a cam), which replaced a nearly identical Herter’s…
And replacement jaws can normally be had for a lot less than a new vise.
Google is a wonderful tool. Here is a review http://wvangler.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5025987 which sums up the problems often found with cheaper vises made elsewhere than USA or Europe. I bet the Terra is made in India (or similar).
In my experience the quality of steel in the jaws and quality control in general is just not adequate in the knock-offs. The jaws on your current vise are possibly worn out because it is a knock-off.
Check out the thread currently running on this BB, http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/showthread.php?43996-Vise-advice-please , for a number of excellent reviews and suggestions.
I have two Griffins and a Danvise (mostly using the Danvise). If you don’t wish/need rotary you can get a Griffin for $50-$60 that will last the rest of your life and their service is excellent. Just spend enough that you don’t have to compromise as in the Terra review. Good luck.
You really do get what you pay for I’m afraid. What you paid for your vise is what a good set of jaws sells for today. I recommend 2 vises to tyers, both with very different price ranges. The Peak Rotary Vise with base sells around $150, made in USA with a Lifetime guarantee. I was given one of these vises from the manufacturer to test, and I was shocked at how nice this vise was. It did everything my tyers could possiby want a Rotary Vise to do.
Then the vise that I have used all my life is the HMH Standard Pedestal Vise, for around $250. Cannot say enough nice things about this vise, especially if you tie streamers and big flies. It also offers 3 different jaws from Micro to Magnum.
Either of these vises will last you a lifetime with no upgrades needed. 
I have used a Terra vise like the one in the review for several years and am pretty happy with it. I don’t tie a lot of flies and I don’t tie anything smaller than a 20, could see the eye if I did. It has been very serviceable vise, I did replace the plastic sleeve on the shaft and installed a nylon bushing in its place, I have recently added a crank type handle on it. For around $50 or a little less it’s hard to beat.
I would like to have access to a machine shop and build my own from scratch.
Thanks for everyone’s insight. I will continue doing some research before picking up a new vice. I understand the “Get what you pay for”. Right now I am really not in a spot to spend big bucks on a vice. Have been teaching for 5 years and still on year two pay. Also have a 6 week old now.
I should have also mentioned what I tie. Currently I have been tying a lot of nymphs in the 12-18 range. I also enjoy tying bigger streamers for bass up to size 2/0.
Thanks again!
I can think of many many less impressive things to spend 40 bucks on.
Since you mention price as a major factor I would consider the Danvise as mentioned. For $80 range [it appears sometime for less] it gives many desirable features…
True rotary
Cam closure
Very adjustable
Handle extension for easy rotating
Bobbin cradle
Good service from BT
Thanks again everyone.
One of my local fly fishing friends has the Terra I am looking at. I will be borrowing it sometime this week to see if I like it. Will go from there. If I don’t like it I think will end up with a Griffins.
look at the anvils, made in usa and rugged as they get…
Most cheaper vises have jaws too soft to last for the long haul… Unless you redress the jaws. Take the vise jaws completely apart and sight down the “flat” inside (gripping) surfaces. Chances are they flare out. It is hard to hold a hook when the jaws are trying to spit it out like a watermelon seed.
Flatten the jaw surfaces by lapping on a large FLAT whetstone or hone. I use a number of different diamond coated “stones” for the purpose. If your stone is not absolutely flat or if you do not have one there are several cheap ways of getting around that. A piece of plate glass with valve grinding compound on the surface makes an excellent substitute… and if valve grinding compound is hard to find, use high quality Wet-or-Dry sandpaper (use it wet) backed with the plate glass.
All require a little finesse. Lapping is NOT done by holding the piece tightly in your fingertips and rapidly running it back and forth over the abrasive surface. That will create enough rocking motion in the jaw to round the edges. Instead, press gently with at least two fingertips and move the jaw back and forth lengthwise. Start with coarser grit (there are several different scales so I will leave that up to you to figure out at the hardware store) and work to finer. It should take no more than 3 grits, but one or two may be enough.
With wet or dry under the old sandpaper system you should end with 400grit. 320 will remove a lot of metal faster if needed.
Do not worry about the surface of the jaw that will not be touching the hook as it should not be touching the other jaw in use, either. Some cheaper vises I have lapped were quite bent and a light tapping with a small peen hammer brought them back. Set the vise jaw on the bench, mating surface down, with a small piece of brass or other soft metal under the jaw very close to the point. A number of light taps with a small hammer will not break the jaw, just do not try to do it all at once.
Some vises have hook grooves cut in the tips of the jaws. I ignore them as I am not taking off that much material. Some high end vises have jaws designed to spring slightly and they will be curved very slightly at the tips… The hook will not likely be slipping in them and so you will not see the need to lap them.
art
hap, coincidentally just yesterday I was working on that problem…tips of the jaws flared out…so your suggestion is timely…I’ll give it a try.
I was contemplating grinding the tips down to where the jaws meet. It would make the tip of the jaws more blount but I’m thinking that is not a problem. What do you think?
Definitely DO NOT grind the jaws back shorter! For one thing that usually involves a grinding wheel and the jaws are probably fairly soft to start with… Heating the metal by grinding will not make it harder. I have peened many jaws back together a bit. Because the hook is going to ride between the jaws the problem with the flare is not the fact the jaws don’t touch, but rather the angle of the jaws is trying to squirt that hook out…
art
I was able to get my hands on one of the Terra’s to try out. Overall it seems to work pretty well. The rotary option is nice for ribbing and such. The only down fall I see with it is the lack of material clip/spring. I don’t really see a good spot to put one either.
If there is room for one, you can get a spring clip/spring on Ebay, or at least you used to.
I use a magnet, sometimes 2 magnets, about half way down the jaw for a clip, works pretty good for rotary work, easy to move around.
I like the basic Griffin 2A vise.
The Griffin 2A Cam is available for $59.50. It is a great travel vise as well.
Wayne
The difference rotary vise and TRUE rotary vise is so significant it is difficult to describe.
If you are not looking at a true rotary, test one out and you may find it worth double the price of a standard rotary.
HMH
