Well, I’ve reached a new low. I picked up a spey blank to build up (after winning the speycasting book offer here on FAOL). It was a Forecast 8/9 weight blank. Mistake 1: I got it second hand, so I didn’t get anything identifying it as a Forecast blank. Mistake 2: I glued the handle up without pulling out all of the sections from the bag. I glued the handle assy up to the 3rd instead of the 4th. I already pulled off the spey cork, but can’t remove the seat.
So now I have one of the middle sections ruined and no real way to return it to the manufacturer to try to get a replacement section. Well, that rod is scrapped. I guess I can try building up the 2 (or 3) tip sections as a 6’ or 9’ shorty and hope it will cast something well. It isn’t really anything I need as a shorter rod. UGH! I guess I shouldn’t work on rods when I’m not feeling well. Out of funds for another blank. I guess I’ll have to start fresh another time.
… have you had a chance to read Simon’s book ?? Just curious what your reaction to it was ??
John
I’ve been waiting to get the rod done to go through it in depth, but I think I might be able to cast somewhat by using the book. It appears to be a good instruction tool. Perhaps I can spey cast my 6’ remnant…
Did you try to cut off the seat?
Not yet. It is an all metal seat, so it will take some work. I might get it off and make it work in the meantime, but that section will remain ugly from the epoxy that won’t all come off. But it is better than scrapping the whole blank. I still can’t believe I did that. I guess I can only laugh it off and feel pretty sure I learned another lesson the hard way.
Blue those things happen to all of us at some point in time or we would not be rod builders. I don’t know what you glued the reel seat on with but I do believe heat will loosen the glue or epoxy. If it was done with rod bond use thinner to remove the glue and then rubbing alchoal to clean it up. There is nothing that can not be fixed just how much time you want to take with it. Don’t know if this will help or not just wanted to kick it out there. BOB
I know you are probably going to find this hard to believe, but we have ALL done something in the same genera … AND more than once.
Here’s something else that you won’t believe … so has Bill Batson AND his son Karry. They own Batson Enterprises, the company that produces Rainshadow and Forecast components.
I suggest you stop anything you are trying to do to remedy the problem. Pick up the phone tomorrow and give them a call toll-free at 877-875-2381. Make sure you speak with either Bill or Karry, they are readily accessible … believe it or not.
You just might find the assistance you need to undo the mistake by making a simple and free phone call.
TJ -
You didn’t wreck anything if can’t heat up the glue or get it off (reel) seat. Try to cut it off with a pipe cutter, the kind you use on 1/2 or less copper pipe with the round disc knife. If you do use electrical tape around the shaft area that needs to be cut. This way it will help buffer the area so it wont splinter apart. So when you cut you actually are cutting the tape and shaft at the same time. It works, I’ve used this method several times. Go slowly. Hang in there.
I will. I used 2 ton epoxy for the handle, so I guess I’ll try the hot water trick next. If that doesn’t work, time for the pipe cutter. Thanks for the advice and words of encouragement.
But still…geez, what a bonehead thing to do!
ol’ blue, if’n it makes you feel any better, long time ago I epoxied up a cork grip and then I slid it down over the small end of the butt…what a
mess…even the wife asked what the heck did you do that for? It cleaned up though so no worries once you get the seat off by heating…
best of luck,
MontanaMoose
Aaaaaha! But in every mistake other tricks come out. Pipe cutter for an old or crappy reel seat. Gonna keep that one in mind. Sounds better than my Dremel
Here’s another way. If you have access to a Dremel or similar tool, put a cut-off blade in it and slice thru one side of the reel seet…from top to bottom, then peel it off. I’ve used this method several times when re-building rods. You know whichever way you choose the reel seat is going to be trashed, right. If you use the dremel method, PLEASE make sure you wear eye protection. Good luck.
Ken
:pBlue I got one for You,
Finally started on the SWAP Rod, got my “spigot rod” fitted, mixed the epoxy , applied to the rod got a 1/4 in. dowel to seat it, inserted it used the dowel topush it in, set dowel down, cleaned up the “spigot”,
put it aside to dry. Forgot about the dowel with the epoxy residue on it… Now I get to chisel and sand my tying desk, Unless someone knows of a use for a dowel going across a tying desk at about a 30 degree angel and about 8 inches in:rolleyes:
. . . if they stay in bed all day! Hey, ol’ blue, you stepped up to the plate and that’s what matters most. I’d still give Batson a call. They may have a section that’ll fit properly and then you’ll be able to start over.
You already received good recommendations. I’d try to removed the seat by heating it. If you used 2-part epoxy, it should be fairly easy to disassemble.
One of my favorite mistakes is when I heated up a metal reel seat (already on a blank) over a gas stove to remove it and when pulling it apart, grabbed the seat with my bare hand. OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOuch!
Ron