I have a 9’ 8wt and an 8-1/2’ 5wt. The 8wt is hard for me to cast for more than an hour (too heavy) and the 5wt won’t toss the real big bass bugs. The 8wt is fine for Steelheading when I’m mostly nymphing, but more than an hour throwing big bugs and streamers is an actual pain. So, here is my question, would a 9’ 6wt allow me to toss the big flies and/or will a 6wt stop a charging Steelie. Should I even consider a 6wt that’s 9-1/2’? Gallop uses a 6wt to toss his streamers on a heavy sinking line, so I’m thinking this could work. I could take 2 ounces or more of weight off my casting arm. Comments?
Right now I’m awaiting an MRI on my left side, neck to wrist. I hadn’t fished for over a month and my brain was about to explode. I finally went out Sunday with my 3wt and just tossed a #12 Caddis and let it drift. This way I only had to use my left arm when I got a hook up. I only hit a few 6" SM and some Rockies, but man it felt good and the arm is still atttached.
I think a 6wt is a bit light for steelhead. I have used a 10 ft Sage XP in a 6 weight and an 8 foot bamboo rod in 6 weitht for steelhead with some success but, I like a 7 weight better. My rod of choice for steelhead is an 8 foot hollow built bamboo in 7 weight. If you are having trouble with these bigger rods, maybe you could go to a two handed rod for steelhead. Some of the 12 or 12 1/2 foot spey rods in say 7 or 8 weight just might be the ticket. Share the load between both arms.
I have a 6 weight, It should be plenty beefy!!
That is given you are not going to possibly be hooking into BIG steelhead with it.
It throws clousers and air resistants just fine for me!
And since mine is higher up on the$$ scale its ALOT lighter than some of the cheap rods.
I tend to favor a 7wt for Steelhead. A 9 1/2’ or 10’ is a great Erie trib rod. You can catch them on any rod. It’s keeping them and having then survive that’s the issue. As for tossing bigger flies, I can throw a goodly size stream pretty well on a 7wt and I’d think you could toss some fair size stuff with it too. I don’t think you need to throw big stuff much for Steelhead, beyond some streamers and buggers, and if your fishing the Erie tribs most aren’t that wide and don’t require long casts.
If the weight of the rod is the issue I’d focus on finding a light weight 7wt rod and reel to balance it out. Sorry to hear your healths not what you want it to be. Hope you have a fast recovery an/or no serious issues.
Wouldn’t it depend on the FLEX? I have several 6wts in all different flexes and I have landed several fish over 30" including 36" Carp on a McFarland 8’ 6wt Glass. As far as casting BIG FLIES, I can cast huge flies with my tip flex T3.
I do have a 10’ 8wt. I bought for Steelies, but have yet to really use it.
Water condition could make a difference also. Is if FAST, then go with a 7wt or 8wt. If it is fair to slow, try a 6wt. Current and a 30+ fish can be a bit tuff.
If you know what you are doing, there is nothing wrong with using a 6wt for steel (barring Babine-sized fish). I have caught hundreds on 5wts, 3wts, and even a few on the 1wt just for kicks, without worrying about breaking the rod or tiring out the fish too much. Tippet determines how much pressure you can put on fish, not the # on the side of the rod. As for streamers, I fish a 3wt most of the time when throwing buggers. It takes technique, not beefiness of rod, until you get up to the point you are throwing a big chunk of lead and steel.
I’m just wondering. Could it be the casting motion required to throw big bugs and streamers, and not the weight that is causing the pain/fatigue. Just a thought since saving a few ounces is really not all that much. Another thought is to buy a lighter reel for your 8wt, since it can be cheaper than buying a whole new outfit…not that there’s anything wrong with that!! :lol:
You could go with a “beefy” 6wt. Look at Sage’s Xi2 or TCR. Loomis’s Crosscurrent. Scott’s S3s or X2s. On a cheaper scale, TFO TiCr or TiCr-X. I’m guessing all of these 6 weights are as beefy as many 7weights.
I have caught, landed and released up to 13# steelhead on my St. Croix Premier 9’-0" 6wt (circa 2000) without any problems, and had no problem fishing it all day. We do a lot of chuck-n-duck for steel in this area, and it holds its own quite well. That being said, I went and bought a Cabelas LST 907-4 combo with the CSR reel so I could have a travel rod with some backbone. I was thoroughly amazed at its light weight and incredible balance. Check it out at http://cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates … hasJS=true
Regarding you casting pain, it’s not too difficult to teach yourself to cast with the opposite hand. JC showed us how to do it at the Michigan Fish-In this year, and I had it down pat in short order. Really helps when you need to cast from another angle. I tried to find the article JC wrote, but the search engine has the narcolepsy whenever I try to use it. Maybe JC will post it for you to read if he reads this post.
This why I love this board. The input is terrific. I will probably stick with my 8wt for Steelies. I do a lot less casting than I do when I’m chuckin’ and duckin’ down a shoreline for Bass. I find it fairly easy to nymph with my left side. As far as the 6 wt is concerned, I’m leaning toward the Sage VT2 with a Bass Taper WF. I have the 3wt and it’s a beaut plus Cabelas has a complete kit, so I may build my first rod. Thinking of this rod, any opinions on what would be the largest fly I could throw comfortably? Thanks again.
I have caught many steelhead even up to 13# on an eight foot 6 wt. with a Ross Gunnison reel- and it was not even a stiff one. I prefer a 9 1/2 foot 7 wt. with a Billy Pate anti reverse. A little more power and you don’t get breakoffs by sudden runs when the fish is at the net. I can’t use an 8 weight anymore because I had spinal fusion and I don’t have the endurance for that heavy of rod. Still use it on salt though. Just don’t cast as much. I think an 8 wt. is unnessarily heavy for steelhead. Good salmon rod though.
This why I love this board. The input is terrific. I will probably stick with my 8wt for Steelies. I do a lot less casting than I do when I’m chuckin’ and duckin’ down a shoreline for Bass. I find it fairly easy to nymph with my left side. As far as the 6 wt is concerned, I’m leaning toward the Sage VT2 with a Bass Taper WF. I have the 3wt and it’s a beaut plus Cabelas has a complete kit, so I may build my first rod. Thinking of this rod, any opinions on what would be the largest fly I could throw comfortably? Thanks again.
Up until this year, I used a 6wt for my bass fishing. I switched to 7wts, because I felt like I had more power to crank them out of the weeds. Anyway, I tossed big 1/0-2/0, hair bugs with a 6wt. I also threw weighted buggers on a 6wt sinking line. It’s not the ideal setup for that, but it can get it done.
I was looking at my 8wt compared to my 6wt’s and for the most part, there is at the most a one ounce difference in weight. Is it that noticeable on your back? I am just curious, because I do agree the eight weight does feel a lot heavier, but why does it?
One ounce times how many casts? I always felt dead after fishing an 8 all day. I think that extra little bit of weight, change in balance, different grip change the way you hold the rod, cast the rod, etc, and that changes the muscles you use, the way you stand, etc…
This might be the one one casting. http://www.flyanglersonline.com/cst/cst102404.html
As far as casting an 8wt over a 6wt, several ton a day! (the line is heavier too!) AND, STOPPING the heavier rod is MORE work too. So, BIG DIFFERENCE. I had a ten ft. 8wt for casting from the shallows in the ocean for salmon. Loved the rod, dam near killed my thumb blind casting for several hours. (and fighting all the salmon too) 8)
