I didn’t have a dog in this fight, but it’s becoming so “interesting and amusing”, ( to me, anyway), reading all these “sure fire tests to do, to prove YOUR hook brand is the BEST”, I have to ask a simple question…(and I HOPE, Dr.Fish, corrects my number?).
But, with all the Daiichii fans, the Teimco addicts, Targus supporters, etc. comparing their hooks against the next guy and then considering about all of your hooks come from the SAME hook manufacturer…(what are there, Dr.Fish… THREE major makers of hooks, in the Orient now?), everyone is testing the SAME HOOKS, against one another, but with different packaging is all!??
Dr Fish Thanks they still wont be satisfied-----I’ll just keep using Mustad as I have longer than most on this board BILL
I will also continue to use Mustad hooks because they fit my budget and I have no complaints with them.
Dr. Fish…You should be proud because everyone is comparing their favorite hook against yours, so, you must be doing something right!!
So what you are saying is that Mustads tend to be stronger. I have not EVER had issues with a TMC, or japanese hook (yes, all made in the same factories) straighten on me whilst fighting a fish. Strength really is a non-issue with tying hooks unless you are fishing for fish that are +15 pounds cosistantly. At that point, I go with Owner or Gamakatsu.
I think the real issue here is how sharp the hooks are. If we compare this, there really is no comparison. Mustads are far inferior to the conical, chemical points of their Asian counterparts. Take a traditional Mustad and run it across your thumbnail and it will slide easily. Then take a TMC or other Japanese hook, and try to run it across your fingernail. It won’t. We won’t even mention how HUGE the barbs are on Mustads. That can’t promote easier hook penetration.
If you are having an issue with hooks breaking or straightening, use a more moderate rod, use your drag more effectively, etc, but DON’T sacrifice the sharpness of your hooks.
Cheech
OR…
We could just use what hooks we like and go fishing and not compare each and every one.
The flex of a rod and the stretch of a line will keep a hook from breaking or straightening under almost all circumstances I know of except one or two. One, there is a fault in the steel of the hook. Two, the hook isn’t buried in the fish’s jaw, but has the point stuck in bone. A hook buried to the bend is almost impossible to straighten or break with a rod, but one with only the point stuck in bone straightens almost effortlessly. The pro bass boys have done major research on force that can be applied with a fishing rod, and even with a heavy action flipping stick, about 8 pounds is all that can be applied with any hookset you can imagine. This isn’t going to straighten many hooks over about a 12-14.
No this is not what I’m saying at all. My point was don’t just look at the label on a pack that says 1x Fine (or whatever) and compare different brands with same description as often the wire diameters will be different. If diameters are different then the test will not be informative as far as comparing wire quality. If you Mic the hooks then you will know if one is heavier or lighter wire which will help decifer you pull test
As far as sharpness goes, of course a premium Asian hook with a ground needlepoint and chemical polishing will be sharper than a Classic Mustad. As I’ve mentioned previously, one needs to compare apples to apples. Mustad Classics point are formed by cutting the wire an an angle and that’s it. The wire is not ground 360 degrees to form a needlepoint and then subjected to a chemical polishing process. Now the Mustad Signature hooks are sharper than the Classics AND the barbs are smaller and you are right, some of the Classics do have large barbs. With email and BB posts it’s always hard to judge a posters tone or inflection and I want to be clear that I’m not being combative or arrogant/aggressive in any way. I’m just apssing along some info is all.
Please note: The first post of this thread had nothing to do with sharpness of any hook, or having to Mic the diameter of the wire to determine thickness, or the price of the hooks, or where they are made. It was a way to simply test, without the need for someone with an engineering degree and thousands of dollars of equipment, whether one manufacturers ‘dry fly’ hook would bend sooner than another manufacturers ‘comparable’ dry fly hook. Same could be applied for wet fly, nymph, or streamer hooks.
For example: Which of these ‘comparable’ (meaning standard) dry fly hooks, using the same size, will begin to bend first, second, third and last?
Mustad 94840; Daiichi 1170; Tiemco 5210; and Dai riki 305?
Deezel
Fair enough. I just like to have the best possible chance of hooking the fish that eat my flies. IMO, the more expensive hooks are worth every cent. I won’t tie with anything else.