Two years ago I was at a fly show and I observed a professional tier tying a dry. Upon finishing the fly she said that she rarely uses head cement. I decided to try an experiment last year and not use head cement on my dries. It did not seem to make a difference. My flies seemed to last just as long with the head cement as without. I must admit that I rarely end up fishing one fly all day and I lose many of them before they can show their “wear a tear” but the flies that I had to replace were not due to the thread becoming unraveled during use. Is head cement overrated?
Caribe
I think it depends upon the fly.
I use it on boa yarn flies so they don’t fall apart as fast.
Use it on any bead headed fly I tie. I think it makes it more durable.
Rick
2 half hitches and a little Sally brushed on the head adds maybe 3 seconds to the tie. If I didn’t use cement, it might be okay but I’d be thinking about it and I prefer to think as little as possible when I fish. 
Regards,
Scott
I use cement selectively. Never on dry flies unless they are extra large or otherwise seem to require it for some reason. Almost always on nymphs and streamers.
You may not most of the time. But when one does come undone, the irritation will not be worth the 3 seconds saved. 
You have made a great observation! Head cement is over-rated. In the “old days”, tying thread was not pre-waxed. Today’s waxed threads do not really require head cement at the eye, though most/many tiers still apply.
On certain flies, during the tying, a tiny amount of head cement might be helpful…for example, if you want a little added security at the base of wings, etc. Even then, if you do a good job of tying down with today’s thread, it shouldn’t be necessary.
My most respected tier, Bob Jacklin of Jacklin’s Fly Shop in West Yellowstone, uses a lot of head cement in his tying, but I don’t think it is really necessary, myself anyway.
so, if you don’t use head cement, do you use extra whips? I must be in the minority, as a lot of my flies come apart. I have started using a whip finisher instead of my fingers, and use 5 whips. What do you use in lieu of HC?
A 3-4 turn whip finish. The thread must be held taut during the knot.
I don’t use head cement, I do two four turn whips on larger flies, size 12 and larger and one four turn whip on smaller. When I used to use head cement and accidentally glue the eye shut, it would be only when I had a rising fish and I was hurrying to tie on a fly only to find I couldn’t thread it and had to clear the eye, then the fish would stop rising. Every time.
I use Sally on many of my freshwater flies, both dry and wet. For saltwater I use Hard As Hull head cement. I also started not using cement in the more traditional way of finishing the tie and then applying the nail polish on some flies, depends if I want to or not, no set reason. I will also often apply a little Sally on my thread just before I tie it off, that glues the thread into the knot without coating the head. Again, depends on how I feel. But, for saltwater, I always use head cement, those fish have big teeth and the rocks have barnacles.
Larry —sagefisher—
I was taught by a guy who wouldn’t fish a fly that wasn’t tied with head cement, but I hated to take the extra step. When i learned to hand whip, it was over for the HC, but when my flies started falling apart, I at least went back to using a whip finisher. Haven’t had any fall apart since that I know of, but always wonder as I am making my whip - does it matter if you run the wraps back from the eye, or just kind of slop them on top of each other?
Cannot hurt - probably an improvement. Thinned (10-20% thinner) lacquer penetrates and adds negligent weight to a dry. Both cents.
Now that I think about it, when I do not use head cement I do a double whip finish. I use Veevus thread and I feel I can crank down a lot harder on the whip finish…something I could not do with my old thread. I still must have some doubts on neglecting the head cement since I feel I need to double up on the whip finish and crank down on the thread. It doesn’t take much more time to add the cement but when I crowd the head (a technique I employ way to often) the cement has a tendency to fill the eye of the hook…and that takes time to clear at the bench or on the stream. Thanks for the responses. Its nice to know that at least some times head cement is not needed.
Caribe
Dry flies never, nymphs yes because I feel they take a beating down under.
Gene
I haven’t used head cement in over 30 years, I feel it’s not necessary. A good whip finish is all I ever use.
I am fortunate to have what I think is a lifetime supply of Overton’s wondear wax in the green tube and use a touch on the thread and whip finish never had a problem and the eyes are not glued shut. I Think I read about this in Harry Darbys book From the mid-80s. Anyway I’ve been using wax long time and it is been very dependable. Fishin’ Jimmy
I just hate to pick up something else off the table - got away from the whip finisher cause I could never find it in the mess, but finally went back to it.
I guess I don’t understand the “no cement on dries, cement on nymphs and wets, etc.”. Why not on dries? Don’t say it adds extra weight. A mini drop of cement won’t sink your dry flies.
Chuck
Simple, dries don’t take the beating of rocks and underwater debris. And I only cement them if I’m in the mood. Nothing set in stone with me. Overall though I believe a good whip finish is all that’s needed.
Gene, my flies take a beating on rocks and above water debris, such as trees. I use fly head cement and would probably spot weld them, if I could figure out how to do it. Maybe I should learn to cast… 
Regards,
Ed