Are there any ways to do a furled leader with Uni-thread without using a board? I saw one guy who did them by hand, but made them out of mono. I am thinking the board will be easy once I have done a few, but always looking to simplify it…and what colors do you think are the most stealthy?? thanks in advance.
WOW, I would love to see that. I have seen Bimini’s made by hand, but how the heck would you do a tapered furled leader with out some kind of staggard pegs? If I tried without a board, It could be a mess.
Plus, what did he use for a center point? You do have to have a center point and two ends, right? I mean the two individual twisted the same direction, then both twisting the opposite together.
You are talking TAPERED aren’t you? I read where there was something about making these in sections and then combining them.
Ah, heck, I hinged my board and made it very mobile, I will stick with it, or the big Tinker Toys
He did do it in sections, which I think would work fine for monofilament, but not so much for Uni-thread…I have my directions I’ll be working on a good old peg board this weekend, seems like the best way to make them…what about the stealthy colors any reccomendations?? thanks.
I get my rings and thread from J. Stockard. I like to combine olive/brown UNI 6 for a camo effect. But you can use coats and clarks .005 Nylon for the mono look. I also use Lt Cahill, and dunns.
I saw a picture of a ‘travel’ jig that used velcro strips and wood pegs. The set up was designed for use on a carpeted floor, the velcro was suck into the carpet at the appropriate locations.
My jig is an 8’ length of 1X6 pine with 3/4" dowels. I drilled several hole patterns for various lengths. I then took different colored magic markers and marked the correct holes and recipe for each leader right on the board.
I can set the jig on my kitchen table and not have to bend over. Using a large diameter dowel makes it easier to pass a whole thread spool through the loops.
I use meduim dun color for my leaders, trying to match the color of an overcast sky.
I saw somewhere someone putting his pegs on his deck railing…talk about length:roll:
there is a leader that is twisted and not furled called a "Singapore leader, but its made of mono. maybe it could be made of thread?? i believe this one has been written about in one of the fly fishing rags. maybe in “american angler”???
I suspect most furlers would not want to do it the way I do, but it works well for travel and will produce a furled leader of any length desired. My “jig” is a roughly 3’ piece of 1x2 and a few pushpins. I furl in sections, knot each end before taking it off the jig to keep it from unfurling, and then knot the sections together. I’ve used several different materials, but usually use 6/0 Unithread, and find that a single surgeons knot holds well in Unithread and is not so large as to cause any problems. I do it this way because I don’t have room for a full-sized jig, but I really don’t see any downside to this method. It does take quite a bit longer, but I’m really not in any hurry.
I got the jig board made, and out of 10 attempts I have two decent leaders, I am making two seperate ones and then furling them together, my main issue is the loops on the small end! I am having a hard time finishing the leader in a nice clean manner?? Any pointers would be great…I like doing two seperate ones then furling them together, you can use two different colors and it really allows you to see how the twists are!!
I gave up trying to make pretty loops on the ends. Now I just place a drop of super glue on the tip and butt ends while in the jig. This prevents them from unraveling when cut off the jig.
For use I use a double surgeons knot at the tip and a modified barrel knot at the butt (I use only 3 turns in the furled butt, 5 turns in my 12" mono butt section) I add a few inched of extra length in my leader design to account for the knot.
I find that the knot work very well for me, less hinge in my cast than a handshake loop or small metal ring, plus I can easily re-knot in the field if needed.
Note: I broke a lot of leaders during construction in the beginning, I was having difficulty mantaining correct tension while twisting.
This was resolved by adding some rubber bands… I take 4-6 fine dia. rubber bands and loop them end to end, I add a bent paper clip to each end. This gets added to the tip end of a leader strand before twisting. The rubber bands apply the required tension during twisting and have enough give to prevent breaking or ‘pig tails’. I rarely break any more during construction.
murphlax34,
I have difficulty inserting the Knit-Picker through the small end of the furled leader when using the very small Coats & Clarke 100% Nylon and what I have found that really helps is to take my fly tying bodkin and push it through which makes inserting the Knit-Picker a lot easier. You might try that and see if it helps…
Hi,
I tried the by-hand method demonstrated in American Angler with some mono, and thought that with a bit of practice an emergency leader could be managed from tippet or backing or whatever was on hand. Fun to try it.
I used to make mine with the dot of superglue, too. Works great. Did glue the spacer in once or twice!
But I like the peg and board method for its fine, tight twists and smooth transitions. Just my thoughts.
For portability, anything on hand that cranks or spins and can be adapted on the spot for a summer leader or two, along with a few finish nails in the (with permission, of course - grin) deck railing or picnic table.
Kat
The small end shorb is tuff, I got it downs, but lately I have bee using the rings. I LOVE THE RINGS! I get the 3mm and a 2mm. The 2 is very small about the size of a #16 hook eye.
Try the rings. They are worth the money and they last a lot longer then the shorb with smaller tippet.
My husband agrees with you completely: tippet rings for his leaders (so I make some each way, grin, mixed marriage!).
Kat
Now that is funny. If it weren’t for you girl…well lets just say I wouldn’t have a clue what you all are talking about;)
You are the FURL QUEEN!
Heay, I wanted to tell you, I found some UNI 4mm Mono and it is sooooo cool.
I made a 5 1/2’ for this Memorial weekend in which I was using a “Y” connection on the end with fluoro. Longest side was 4’ and second was one foot which I attached two different colored Chironomids to. It roll cast so easy and NO TANGLES! Plus it was windy and when.
I finally got it down, practice makes perfect eh? The super glue sure did help, as did using the bodkin, so thanks for all the great tips.Now my question is about materials! I made a couple out of mono which are nice and a couple out of Uni-thread. The Uni-thread ones seems a bit too soft and limp? Maybe they will be better once treated with floatant?
Just a thought,what do you think???
I’m up for a leader swap…just a suggestion…how about starting another thread for the swap. Some of the members that might be interested may not read this thread.
Brad
I prefer the UNI thread over all the other materials I have tried. It may seem soft in your hand but it casts like a dream…