OK…so I have a 7’ 3wt Lamiglass glass rod that was self-built. Only problem is, the last 1" of th ecork where it butts up to the reel seat has worked loose and moves with about 1/8" play. It doesn’t affect the casting at all…but “I” know it’s there & at times it will squeak a little. What is the best way to fix it? The grip is a smaller full wells custom that I really like, and would like to keep. Is it salvagable? Or shoudl I just leave it be and deal with it? I’ll attach a pic of the grip setup. Thanks in advance for any help.
I have a Joe kennedy glass i built in the early 80’s with the same problem, I will be interested in the answers.
there are several ways and here are a couple:
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buy a small plastic syringe, mix some epoxy and acetone (or use a glue of your choice see if it will flow with the syringe), inject, clamp, leave it for a week, then go fishing. If there is a big enuf gap you might not have to use acetone. Try whatever glue you have about the place if it will flow from the syringe.
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cut off the offending piece, replace with new cork. You’d cut the new rings in half and glue in place, clamp or tape tight, let cure, then sand or file to your desired shape.
Problem is, there is no visible gap. I would have to bore a hole I guess at the location of the gap and inject through the cork?
could you work between the cork and the reel seat?
This is what I would try.
Since you are looking for a filler more than anything else, I would get a hypodermic syringe and needle for injecting Penicillin (big fat 'ol bore on that needle) from a feed store or large animal veterinarian. I would mix up some Flex-Coat Lite or other low viscosity epoxy, suck it up in the syringe and inject it into the void by inserting the needle through the cork on the seat end of the grip. I would put the needle in right next to the reel seat, angled towards the blank or in between two cork rings on the reel side of the grip.
I can’t get a gap between the cork and reel seet. I could angle it in like KB noted. I’m nervous about doing that on the bast of the grip because I don’t want to split the cork. But that may be the best way. I have a smaller meat basting syringe…may try that?
If it is one of those that you can inject fluids into the meat with, it should work fine. Otherwise, go to a feed store and tell them what you need the needle and syringe for and they can fix you up. There are injectable medications for animals you can buy without prescription at a feed store and you have to have a way to inject it. I used to have a bunch or them but not anymore or I would just send you a couple. If you are friendly with a large animal vet, they may help as well, but the feed store is the better bet.
The needle keeps you from having to make a hole and the cork may seal up behind the needle when you withdraw it. At the worst, the hole is a minimal sized one.
I’d still go between the cork and the seat even if you have to worry a two or three holes with an awl or some such. If you come in from the grip then you have to make some holes that would be more visible and I don’t believe it would be as effectivebecause you want the glue to flow the full length of the piece tht moves. I’d go the holes first aand then see what you can get that would fit in them. YOu could make a couple holes between the seat and the grip the full length of the part that moves. Maybe three holes even. The glue will fill the holes and they will not be all that visible. If you dilute the epoxy to a thickness that will flow deeply into the holes well remember that it will take extra time to cure. If you break the cork then you do the new rings.
Folks I appreciate the help. Makes sense to bore the holes from the reel seat…agreed. Next question. I have been told to keep the cork dust from the bored holes, to mix with glue and refill. Any idea the type of glue?
I’d use the same stuff that i injected into the holes NJTb, i had the same prob you have with a cork once and asked my furniture repair/refinisher what to do (wifey) and she used a hypo and fixed the loose cork section right up. You’ll do fine.
Cheers,
MontanaMoose
To cover the hole use Elmers wood filler in golden oak. it’s a real close match for most cork. and the stuff is water based so it doesn’t kill too many brain cells.
Well…I know what i will be doing this weekend after I take the boy turkey hunting:^) Nursing an ailing rod back to health.
I would go with RockThief’s idea. Then afterwords patch the small holes with wood putty. The cork will stretch some to make room for needle going into the cork so the hole may be rather small.
So, what caused this to start with? Age (my rod is 30+ years old but lightly used) or did I do something wrong during the build, or does it just happen sometimes?
Mine was builder error…me:^) I was off on my boring of the cork. And used a tape ring to build up at the base. But I don’t think I got enough epoxy in the area of the ring in my attemp to avoid glue sqeazing out. 1st time lesson.
The hypodermic syringe approach is THE way to go. HOWEVER, I would steer clear of using any epoxy for this. I prefer a good Carpenters glue, such as Titebond III for gluing cork rings. It can be diluted some with water, but don’t overdo it. I advise this as someone who routinely thins epoxy with rubbing alcohol and HIGHLY recommend it for certain applications, but NOT this one. It is very messy to work with, is a pain to clean up, and dries hard and inflexible. Titebond III is much easier and quicker to clean up with damp/wet paper towels, and is flexible after drying. And no obnoxiuos fumes to deal with, i.e., alcohol or acetone, etc.
Good luck!
Cork Solution:
I have given this some additional thought. I beleive that I would take a small nail and push it through the cork in several places to the gap area. Then I would get some slow expanding aerosal insulation. Spray this solution into the void. Most of those spray insulation cans have a tube through which the product is sprayed. thus the need foir the nail holes. When all is done sand the excess. Done