The ones I have the most problem with are the small ones and getting them on a size 18-22 scud or curved nymph hook. If I can get them on the hook point, it can be a problem for me to get them around the bend. Usually they fly off.
Another method to get them on the hook is to put them in a pan as FFranky suggests (he and I should get together sometime - we only live about 50 miles apart and fish the same water). Then use a needle or bodkin to pick up one or two (not as easy as tweezers, but they don’t get away as easy either). Using one of your fingers for backing it is not too hard to align the tip of the needle with the point of the hook. Slide the beads from one to the other. All is more easily done if the barb is flattened (at least a little).
On a second note for those going to Michael?s for beads, also look for antron punch yarn for tails or wings, braided craft yarn for streamer bodies, mylar embroidery thread for ribbing, boa yarn (as mentioned) variegated chenille for WB?s, pheasant church windows and also marabou in the feather section, storage boxes (like Plano) for materials or fly inventory, and an excellent Beading Travel Kit for a travel fly tying kit.
Ah, since you’re using such small hooks, then that generally means the beads are too “long”.
These are from a bag of inexpensive beads:
The red bead in the upper-right corner is short enough but shaped wrong. The two lying on their sides are definitely too long.
Out of all of them, I’d say only the bottom-most blue bead and the right-most green bead have the right proportions and hole diameter to be usable.
This “grading” of beads is not fun so I opt for good quality beads, which are more expensive, but are consistently shaped with big holes.
ps. Greg, spring thaw is just 3 months away! We can hook up then or I’ll probably be testing my winter creations at Primrose to curb the cabin fever on some weekends.