… but here is a link to one way of doing them. Compared to a couple other methods I’ve seen, this one seems rather simple.
http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/showthread.php?26866-Furled-Leaders-Shorb-Loop
John
P.S. Jack - On your question about sizing the leader to the fly, not to the rod weight ?? I think that will take some research.
I was up very late last night playing with these leaders.
I need a clear line drawing for the routing for wrapping a 4 step, two legged leader. So that we are all on the same page there are two butt hooks and 5 pegs total.
This is a wonderful line drawing that Jack Hise posted in an earlier thread here and this is the type of directions that I am seeking. Already PM’d Jack and he doesn’t have one for a 5 peg configuration.
John, nice link on the Shorb loop. Thanks
Good morning , Clay.
Re: the Shorb loop …the best instructions I’ve see are by Jim Williams on the UK site…great pictures …just look at the "How to Make a Shorb Loop " thread.
Re: Your question about wraps…I think you are asking about tapers and step downs…here is the definition used by us on that site…you will find others using different designations so it creates problems communicating. Your question would be for a 4 step down leader…4 pegs between the end pegs.
“A decrease in number of threads in the finished leader. Occurs where the pegs(not the butt or tip pegs) are placed on the leaderboard. A leader consisting of 5 different diameters(number of strands) is a 4 step leader.”
In other words the number of step downs equals the number of pegs between the butt hooks/pegs and the tip peg.
The choice for the number of loops [threads] varies with what you want…rod size…line wt…fly size…etc.
A common 4 step down formula for say 4/5/6 wt rods is… 3.5…2.5…1.5…2.5…3.5 loop formula which is 14/12/10/8/6 thread formula…but it’s to each his own.
I would suggest you use Steven’s {Parnelli’s} Big Furled Leader Formula …as suggested by agedsage…to figure your peg spacing…might as well use something apparently based on some sophisticated physics…it’s very easy to do with the spreadsheet.
Yes, we are on the same page Dman on the step downs. I was just trying to get everyone else on that same page so they understood what material routing I was looking for. Anyone have a line drawing for the above 4 step peg layout (5 actual pegs, with 4 step downs)?
Yes, on the Shorb loop on the UK site. I downloaded that to my own computer and saved it in a file about furling. Here’s the direct link for anyone else interested and then there is another wonderful pictorial to address the twist that can sometimes occur in the loop that Jim also did a wonderful job with posting with grand pictures for us that are challenged when trying to understand something that just has text.
http://furledleaders.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=shorbloop&action=display&thread=241
Sorry, can’t find the second link right now. I’ve spent so much time there that I can’t remember where I found it and a search under Shorb doesn’t come up with the specific link that I am referring to. I can see the photos for the description in my mind. Jim talks about the shadown showing the twist in the loop better than the actual photo showing the twist. This second thread isn’t about making the Shorb loop but perfecting it so it lays flat without twist. I’ll run across it again soon and post that link. If any of you find it before I do feel free to post it.
Rick
Here…
http://furledleaders.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=shorbloop&action=display&thread=409
Clay, as I mentioned just think loops…start with your desired loops and just make one less loop as you go around each subsequent peg…then add one as you go back up the other side…you could draw your own…sorry I don’t know how to do that on the computer.
Not a perfect Shorb loop but a quick photo. The second photo is a problem that I am having occationally. Am I putting too much pressure or not enough or not pulling hard enough on the butt end before I start to twist? I end up with two or three of these loose loops in most leaders that I am making. A push in the right direction is appreciated.
Hey, a neat new feature, I forgot to resize my images before I uploaded them and for the first time that I noticed the web site did it for me instead of telling me that they were too large. All automatically - super cool.
Made a couple of leaders with the 3.5, 2.5, 1.5, 2.5, 3.5 formula - nice.
My first ones were 5.5, 3.5, 1.5, 3.5, 5.5 but I like the latest better with the material that I am using, 4 pound Ande’ Tournament Green in an IGFA class line that is .175" thickness.
Rick
Wow, did someone do that? 
No offense taken, btw.
I don’t know so many of you guys personally, but I’m hoping you’re all saying that there’s room for people who just want a simple fishing leader and for those doing research on this board.
Kat
Hi, Clay,
Ed Engleman drew that diagram originally, and may be helpful if someone else doesn’t come up with what you need:
His website is fun to check out anyway.
Kat
Kathy, glad that you joined in on the conversation. I actually have a quick question for you. I think that the cork is mounted at the 10% reduction mark and I see how you twist the leader with the pin already through the loop and then the pin is placed in the cork. So how is the cork mounted to the board, with epoxy? Thanks for joining in on the discussion.
Rick
Finally found the thread that I was talking about earlier about making the perfect Shorb loop. While the one that you linked Dman is a good one, this is the actual one that I was thinking of: http://furledleaders.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=construction&action=display&thread=155
Hi,
Wish I could join in these conversations more often, sigh. Teaching 8th graders to cast today, six classes of PE. Fun, but keeps me occupied.
I did just epoxy the cork to the board. A friend’s pooch chewed up a grip, hence the cork. I replace it every so often (comes back off nicely with a chisel, grin).
Good luck,
Kat
Clay:
I learned to furl from Skip Shorb himself. He advocates ALWAYS running the loops in a leg segmen, segment-by-segment, back and forth between the terminal hooks and the interlocking connections with your hands to make sure you have no slack in a thread in any section. Any slack is easily worked out before you start twisting. What you show in your first photo appears to be due to slack in one or more threads in the loops for one of the legs in this segment. By making sure you keep the loops under tension at all times helps prevent this and also facilitates ‘working’ slack out when found.
aged sage
I’ll ditto what Aged sage says…I’m a big believer in equalizing the tension after the legs are off the pegs…and equalizing each leg with each other.
ducksterman:
Thanks for adding the key element to my comment that I carelessly omitted: equalization is done after the loops have been removed from the pegs!
aged sage
Huh? You fish big poppers on a 2 wt? I’m not a native english speaker so i might understand things wrong. I’d think you adapt the line size to the fly size (weight, air resistance etc.) so in the end when the leader is correct for the line size i’t also correct for the fly size.
Karel
PS, fun to see you guys here also. Seen the C-channel and window latch picture, seems the way to go to extend my current board on the butt side without having to use extra T-track(of which my supply is dried out).
