I would like to hear some opinions on attaching the tippet ring to the furled leader. I know it has been discussed before somewhere. I understand there are 3-4 ways to do it. The first one I did I just did not put in the Shorb’s loop on the tippet end…and did a typical loop to loop handshake. That looked a little stiff. So on the next one I ran the tippet ring down one leg to the tippet end and then furled the leader using Uni 6. That seems like only 3 strands of uni going through the loop. Is this strong enough? It LOOKS sweet…but the handshake looked stronger. You could even do the Shorb loop and then a handshake but you will still have divided the strands at the knot. Probably strongest is furl the leader, slip the tippet ring on, then tie an overhand loop knot. Well…guess you would get hinging for sure there. So is the method of a 10-8-6 taper with Uni 6 strong enough by sliding it down one leg before you furl it?
You know my preference from the PM I sent you a while back. ( By the way, glad you decided to use some of that big stock of tip rings you acquired .)
I’ve had occasion to break off 2X 10# test tippet without damaging the leader or the tip ring on leaders made using the method of sliding the tip ring down one leg of the leader before starting the furling process.
Other methods may or may not make for a stronger connection, but I don’t think they would make for a simpler, cleaner, and more energy efficient connection ??
Thanks John. I know it is a goofy worded question. Kinda cluttered up my question with words. Not well though out.
I know tippet will break first…it is the weakest link. Just if the tippet and ring get snagged on something…wondering how well it will pull/jerk lose without the furled leader breaking…cause the three little strands don’t look too tough.
Different strokes, certainly, but for my 2 cents, I prefer to finish the leader (except the tippet end Shorb loop), then wet and poke the tippet end through the ring and pull the opposite end of the leader through the end I just poked through.
I guess if I get into a situation where something stronger than 2X 10# test tippet is needed to consistently land the fish I am targetting, I might find that a different way of placing the tip ring on the leader is necessary ??
Other than the strength issue, do you see other advantages to doing it the way you do it ?? One disadvantage for me, at least, would be keeping the strands at the ends together to do it as you described. Maybe that results from the difference in our respective methods of making furled leaders ??
Thanks Kat.
That’s how I did my first one and kinda liked the feel of the strength. Sliding the ring on one side leg first sure looks sweet though. I’m on the fence. I gave it to a local friend though. Think I will do another one with the wet and poke method so I can take another look at it. Thanks for the update.
BTW somewhere I read something about where to get furled leaders. I was intending to post to Contact “YOU”…but I haven’t done it yet. Now I will have to find THAT thread so I can recommend your info.
Thanks for the comment…sorta verification for me. and thank you Kat for the help in the past. You the man!..ooooops
Well, yo know what I mean <grin>
The furling process creates something much stronger than the apparent strength of its components. I think the breaking strength of the Danville 210 tying thread is something like 12 ounces. Three of them very loosely wound together would be about 3 pounds breaking strength.
By the time you are done furling, there are a lot more than three simple strands holding the tip ring, and the strength far surpasses 3 pounds. Mine have proven around 10 pound breaking strength several times.
The static test I’ve used is accidently sticking a fly tied on 2X 10# tippet into a tree or something like than on the far side of some water I couldn’t or wouldn’t wade to retrieve the fly. Simply pulling until something gave - every time it was the tippet, usually at the knot to the tip ring ( which is the weakest point in the rig, but close to 10# strength ) with no damage whatsoever to the leader or tip ring.
I guess I could tie on heavier test mono and expand the static test to a “usual” breaking strength for the leaders and tip rings, but just don’t see the point.
I understand what you are saying about sliding the ring down one side so 3 strands going through. It IMHO is not as strong. I have lost a couple of rings due to that. It is as clean as it gets though. I like Kathy’s idea, but with a 2mm ring, can you still do this? I guess I will have to try.
Fairly easily done! Using a #12 or #14 crochet hook (really, really tiny!!), put the ring on the hook, catch up the loops of the leader, slip the ring down on the threads, and with the loops still on the hook, catch up the loop on the butt end of the leader, and slip it through the loop on the crochet hook. Keep pulling the butt end through till the tippet end is at hand, hold the ring, and form a locking loop behind it. Pull it down tight, and it’s not going anywhere!
"Using a really, really tiny crochet hook, put the ring on the hook, catch the loops of the leader, slip the ring on the threads, and with the loops still on the hook, catch the loop on your butt and slip it through the loop on the crochet hook. Keep pulling your butt through the tippet, hold the ring and form a locking loop to your behind and pull tight . . . ? "
Betty, I apologize, but those of us in the deep South are somewhat logy this time of year, and down here, your description will require some idiot-proofing
OK … will try to work up some pictures. It probably helps that I know how to crochet:rolleyes: … with that in mind it seemed easier to envision what I was saying. I’m sorry to sound so confusing. Back shortly!!
All I can say is I have a VERY tiny hook latch tool (actually two different ones) but no way will they fit through a 2mm ring. We are talking the size of MAYBE a #16 hook, but, I found that by feeding a thin wire through the ring then loop and back out the ring works really well. Like those threaders for small flies by CF or even the ones to help thread a needle.
Stick it through the ring, the feed the finished leader through the threader. The thinest part of the leader though. Wetting the leader does help except when using mono.then pull. You end up with a loop, but just pull and adjust till the big end pull through the ring, then slide loop to ring.
Great presentation, really slick. That should make a stronger connection between the tip ring and the leader than the “slide it down the leg” technique. And it is really clean, more so than I thought when I was just reading your description, and probably as energy efficient.
The only question is how do you keep all the strands at the tip end together before you insert the crochet hook ?? Maybe its due to the furling technique I start with, but if I don’t have the tip ring in there, I have to put a piece of thread through the end loops to keep them together.
John
P.S. I might go into a fabric or yarn store for supplies, but to buy a crochet hook ?? I think not.
pull the butt end through the loop on the tippet end
keep pulling the butt end through till it’s all the way through
snug the loop around the ring