Hey all you dremel bug fans! I just built a dremel lathe and have an upholstery needle for the mandrel. I’m using a very light touch, and I know what a light touch is on a lathe. Still, the foam slips around. The only reference on FAOL I could find about this was a suggestion to use a lighter touch. Anyone have another solution? Maybe rough up the mandrel? Super glue? tacky wax?
Thanks for any wisdom.
Diane
[This message has been edited by Diane (edited 04 February 2005).]
You may want to rough up your mandrel and keep your speed up.
Larry
email chevyvan37@aol.com for suggestions. Jack will set you straight.
-Zac
The way to a flyfisherman’s heart is through his fly
thanks, bass. i’ll do that. already emailed Jim Hatch, too. I tried superglue tonight sand it works but it messes up the bug on the way off the mandrel a bit.
Diane
You could try a seam ripper that has the 2 teeth or another option is one of those corn cob holders. Just melt the plastic corn shape off and you’re good to go. -Jeff
Diane,
I use a 1/16 drill bit in my Dremel. For the firmer foams, it holds well all by itself.
On the softer stuff, I use a drop of super glue. Use a twisting motion to take the body off after shaping and you’ll reduce the tearing.
Good Luck!
Buddy
Tie flies beyond the resistance of mortal trout!
first of all, it really depends on the type of foam. i find closed cell foam laminated into blocks to be the best, and then those little foam marshmallows. make sure when you put it on the lathe, you get it on right the first time and don’t reposition it, and only move it in one direction when putting it on.
Hey Diane, I might have a solution for you. First by way of information. There are basically two designs in needles. A taper needle, which is just whatit says it is, a round needle shaft that tapers to a round point. This design is used for putting a needle through fabric, (or skin or other tissue in my work)without cutting or tearing the material. The other type of needle is called a cutting needle. This type of needle starts with a round shaft and is then forged into a triangle shape on the portion of the needle toward the tip. The edges of this triangle are then sharpened so that they cut through fabric, skin, tissue, rather than just pushing through without cutting. This may be the answer for your uses because of the triangle shaped area of the needle. It would probably keep the foamm from turning on the needle shaft. Not sure where one might find a cutting edge needle out in the general public, but I know where there might be a couple of them…he he he… Send me a diret e-mail and I might be able to get one out to you to try.
These are the idle thoughts that posses a man’s mind when he’s not able to fish.
Diane that address is ChevyVan37@aol.com
Hopefully it doesnt matter if it does im sorry. Hopefully its not case sensitive
Sry
-Zac
The way to a flyfisherman’s heart is through his fly
If you don’t mind spending some money, Sleazy Steve sells a mandrel for turning foam poppers that works great. Essentially a block with three needles sticking out of it. One long one to hold the foam and two shorter ones on the sides to keep it from spinning.
Can’t remember if he has a site or not but I’ll look and post if he does.
Kevin
[This message has been edited by fly-chucker (edited 05 February 2005).]
Why not use a bike spoke a described by Bill Fitzgerald for tube flies and just turn the nut against the foam?
Push the needle straight through the foam with no twisting, and you should be good to go. It also helps a bit if you push the foam all they way up to the eye of the needle (I think it grabs just a little bit, since it’s not round).
Diane
Check the web site for Sleazy Steve’s Soggy Bottom Fly Shop [url=http://www.jvlnet.com/~swinters:f3c68]www.jvlnet.com/~swinters[/url:f3c68]
His products listings show what he sells for dremel foam…with the one long “spike” and the two little ones it’ll keep the plug straight and non spinning.
Betty
Trouts don’t live in ugly places
Thanks, folks. I’ll take a look at Sleazy Steve’s site. Sounds like a possibility. Might make something like that.
Satchel, I think those triangular needles are just the ticket.
Hey Folks,
Here is what I do. I use a 2 1/4"
upholstery needle from Walmart. I took
it to my local True Value and got a collett
that was a perfect fit for $2.00. I insert
it tightly in the dremel. Test spin at 1/2
speed. If you have any vibration, something
is amiss. If not, you are good to go. I
leave the eye of the needle stuck back into
the dremel shaft underneath the locking nut.
Then I take a pre cut plug of foam. Flip
flop foam works quite well. I tap my foot
control a couple of times as I stick the
needle through the foam plug. Then, spinning the foam at about half speed on the
dremel, I shape it with a small emery board.
It takes only seconds to make your desired
shape. A light touch is very necessary but
it works quite well for me. I use no other
method of securing the foam other than the
friction against the needle. Do not use a
standard sewing needle. Too easy to bend
and you do not want to spin a bent needle
in proximity of fingers.G I have used my
current 2 1/4" upholstery needle for over
3 years without changing it out. I have
turned over 4,000 dremel bugs on the one
needle. I have perhaps had one out of a
hundred foam plugs slip while turning during
all of this time. Once a plug slips on the
needle while turning, throw it away. It
glazes the inside where it meets the needle
and it will continue to spin. This is what
works for me. Steve has corresponded with
me and he sounds like a very pleasant gent.
I have been told by others that his products
work well. He has indicated he’d like to
come fish with me and I hope he makes it and
will demonstrate his goodies. Meanwhile, I
find the upholstery needle works very well
for me. I have corresponded with over 100
dremelbuggers since the article appeared on
FAOL that are using the needle method
successfully. I would be tickled if I
could demonstrate it for you guys but that
is not practical. If anyone has questions
plese don’t hesitate to email me and I’ll
try to help ya figure it out.G Warm
regards, Jim
p.s. I have found that half speed on a
variable speed dremel or perhaps a notch
less seems to be the best speed for turning
most foams.
[This message has been edited by Jim Hatch (edited 05 February 2005).]
Hey Folks,
Just a word of caution. If you are
going to use something other than an
upholstery needle, or perhaps the suggested
drill bit, make sure it is straight,
balanced, and tempered. Mild steel may bend
while applying pressure and create an
instant unbalanced condition. You do not
want to do this with something spinning as
fast as a dremel motor. Make sure you use
common sense and don’t qualify for a Darwin
award.
Jim’s last note was really important. I chucked an upholstery needle into my dremel and started it up on half speed. The length of the needle (about 4 inches) combined with the mildness of the steel (very cheap needle) made for an unholy mess. The needle bent quickly and wildly and if my fingers had been near it, I’d have had some cuts or, worse yet, have caused the needle to snap off and fly. Wear glasses when you start this before figuring out the equipment. Also, here’s a safety tip from woodturning. When you first start turning an unbalanced piece, start slow and stand off to the side (the headstock or dremel tool side, not toward the end of the needle or tailstock) so that if it does spin loose, it flies across the room, and not into you. I guess this means that you probably shouldn’t do this with your significant other or favorite child or pet in the trajectory path either.
I love turning foam already!
Diane
Diane,
Wait till you see the kewl foam Sleazy Steve has!
Betty
Trouts don’t live in ugly places
Diane,
Perhaps part of the problem you were
experiencing was the length of your needle.
I initially tried some of the longer needles
when first setting up my dremel lathe. I
found the 2 1/4 to 2 1/2" upholstery needles
worked well. Much longer, they tended to
pick up a bit more vibration and became
unsuitable. Unlike a real lathe, the
dremel only supports one end of the mandrel
and too much length can be problematic. I
have found the shorter ones quite capable of
turning large bass and saltwater poppers
with no problem.
Maybe your thread will stir enough
interest for a dremel bug swap.G Or
perhaps a FOTW for the dremel buggers. I
have several I’ve been considering for
submission. Warm regards, Jim
Wow, what a coincedence! I’m building my dremel lathe today! Read Jim’s great article and just had to try it. I’m painting it now, so can’t ‘play’ just yet.
Thaks, Jim for a great, how-to article!
Have fun,
George