Has anyone tried using small plastic worms,something like dropshot worms with weedless size 2-4 hooks on there flyrods instead of feather substitutes,the light weight seems doable?
sure do it a lot with these small plastic trout worms about 2" long, rigged on a 8# leader about 5-6’ long on a 5wt. Just use a slightly “softer” casting so you don’t tear apart the plastic. works pretty well with panfishing.
Mike
If you go to assalt lures and look at the worm section the salt shaker worm in 4" with the thin tail rigged with a #2-4 weedless hook and a pinch of lead putty make catch a few bass in ponds and be as light as those lead eyed ribbon worms they sell and a lot cheaper!
I’ve used small Sluggos in the salt
I super glued them to the hooks so that they survived the casting better
They were more of an effort to cast, they didn’t work any better than a regular fly, and I felt goofy doing it
:rolleyes:
Thomas,
You can certainly do it. Lots of folks do. Effective for bass in shallow waters.
As noted, though, it’s not fun to cast. A heavier rod and line make it easier and less noticable, but, frankly, soft plastics cast like a rock…
That being said, a 4 inch Senko rigged ‘wacky style’ (hooked once through the very middle of the bait) with a circle hook can be ‘lobbed’ with a 6 wt. It’s very effective for bass, and big bass, that are holding tight to cover edges (please don’t tell anyone;) ).
Buddy
Hi Thomas,
Jack Ellis in his 1994 book, Bassin with a Fly Rod, makes a very strong case for using plastic to catch LMB. He points out that bass taking an underwater fly can inhale it and expel it before the fisherman ever detects the strike. Plastic is just held longer by most fish. Ellis recommends a selection of small worms and lizards. He also recommends testing the water with spinning tackle before fishing it with a fly rod. Shocking I know but not a bad idea. You might also want to do a search for “hairy weeny,” “double pink weenie,” and “koosh ball(s)” on FAOL. I think that fly rods fish small plastic baits far more efficiently than spinning rods do. Just my 2% of a dollar. 8T 
I used to use a lot of curly tail grubs rigged on unweighted hooks until I found patterns for flies that would mimic the same actions. They worked well, and I didn’t have much trouble casting them, but, like others have said before, durability was the real issue. They work, though, and if you are really interested in using them, the Ellis book is definitely worth tracking down.
Tom Nixon was doing it over forty years ago.
Biggest bass I’ve ever caught came on a small plastic worm. Ten pounds, four ounces. One of my better fishing days.
I have had some of my best fishing days using plastics. Weight is an issue. I will sometimes use a scissors to cut 1/2 a curly tail grub to get 1/2 the weight. I usually use 1 or 2 inch grubs… anything longer I “trim” unless I am using my 6 or 8 wt. When I started my kids with fly fishing, the grubs work great because I am convinced the fish do hold longer and it allows them to get the feel of the bite. The easiest way to keep the grub on the hook is to hook it once through the front but I that methods looses some of the tail action. Tail action is crucial. The best way to get consistant tail action is to tie 2 or 3 20lb mono “barbs” on the shaft of the hook and thread the grub through the hook so the tail either points straight up or straight down in line with the bend of the hook. The 20lb mono barbs are not my idea. Someone one from this site suggested the mono barbs a couple of years ago. I caught my biggest northern (26 in) and my largest smallmouth (21in) with 2 inch curly tail grubs. I can’t say that they are my “go to” warm water “fly” since I love top water stuff, but, when the top water is not working the small grubs will get a try with the rest of the fly box. They can be deadly.
caribe
I once caught a fat 5# carp on a real earthworm.
Greg
Yes, I use the Berkley Honeyworms powerbait for bluegills, they stay on the hook good on the cast,and the gills love them.I use them under a popper bug as the dropper too.
I skimmed through this post briefly but I didn’t see the normal argument “that’s not fly fishing”. Fly fishing is different for each of us and I tend to say that fly fishing for me is more about how I present an artificial bait or fly that what I am using at the end of the tippet. It’s about using a fly rod and fly line to present something to the fish.
With that way of thinking I definately have used plastics, I haven’t used power bait, some would say to just use worms then. The point is that we all must make a decision for ourself and use our own self imposed false restrictions to make the hobby match our mind’s eye of how it should be. The only problem that I ever see on these types of discussions is when someone else tells me how I must do it.
The point is, if you are happy using plastic instead of feathers, go for it and be happy. Instead of plastics but out of the norm for fly fisherman, I have been casting some ice fishing jigs lately. The colors and patterns are very interesting and sizes are varied. Try some of those little tungsten jigs out instead of tying up some chezch nymphs, the results have been good.
Rick
Jack Ellis discusses this whole issue in detail in “Bassin’ with a Fly Rod” and comes to the same conclusion. Ellis bases much of his techniques on Tom Nixon’s theories. Nixon realized (much sooner than most) that a bass is not a trout and will generally hit a plastic worm or spinnerbait faster than most flies.
For those worried about durability or the soft plastic coming off the hook during the enertia of the casting stroke:
Texas rigging, where the hook point is burried in the worm, is pretty secure except where the hook eye is buried in head. Sliding a piece of stiff mono (something like 20 to 50#) through the head and hook eye and trimming it close will hold well.
If you want to use an unweighted worm/grub on a bare hook, a drop of super glue will hold it in place. Just remember that the violence of tha bass’ strike and the resulting fight often destroys the soft plastics regardless of the kind of tackle you use. Carry enough with you, sometimes it’s one fish per bait…
If you want a bit of weight, slide a bead on the hook, THEN glue the soft plastic in place. Makes a nice lightweight jig without having to buy ready made fly fishing/ice fishing weight jigs (which generally have too small a hook for most ‘bass size’ soft plastics).
And a bit of ‘secret’ tip for those who are interested in both fly tying AND fishing soft plastics: Place a bead on the hook, then tie and wrap a hackle collar in your choice of colors. Glue a curl tail grub to the hook behind the hackle. Gives a bit of extra action to the lure. Incredibly effective for schooling bass and in the smaller sizes are deadly on Crappie.
Another tip: Several places sell hooks for making lead head jigs. These have the shank bent at 90 degrees (or 60 or 22, depending on style). Nice thing about these hooks, the hook point rides up, even if you don’t mold any lead on them. Use these for your soft plastic baits, with and without a bead, to lessen hang ups without resorting to a buried hook (often hard to set a buried hook point with a fly rod). They are also cheap (around $5/100).
Buddy
Hi Buddy,
Thanks for the tips on keeping plastic baits in place on the hook. I’ve got one question for you. Do you super glue your plastic ahead of time or in the field right before fishing? Actually two questions. Does any particular brand of glue seem to work better than others? Zap-A-Gap for example. 8T
The very best ‘super’ glue for soft plastics was the old ‘Bondini II’ stuff sold in a white plastic bottle with a red cap. I can’t find it anymore. Zap-a-gap works okay, but the Loctite brand ‘easy brush’ works better.
I’ve always ‘pre-glued’ my baits. Don’t like to carry glue on the boat (it spills and sticks to EVERYTHING you don’t want stuck).
Buddy
With plastics on a fly rod, durability is an issue. Here are two solutions.
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Get a durable plastic like the Strike King 3X material. Though the material naturally floats, they make a salt impregnated 4" finesse work that sinks. Or fish one of their floating grubs with a sinking line. Rig on a offset or keeper hook for weedless presentations.
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Make worms and grubs from Bohemian Chenille adding lead or brass do-dads to get the sink you want. Simple 3-5" strips of chenille with the tip singed to prevent raveling make very durable worms.
There you have secrets I would have taken to the grave if you were not such nice guys.
I checked my copy of Tom Nixon’s book this morning. He buried the eye of the hook in the worm and pegged it in place with a toothpick – same as the bass pro’s.
As i stated if you goggle assalt plastics and look for there salt shacker worms in 4" you will see how small in diameter they are and i am looking at mustad or gamagatsu weedless hooks for that worm i believe in a size 2 or 4 will not be too heavy for the five weight.