Fly Line or Gold Mine

OK, I have something to gripe about. It the outrageous price of fly lines today. A single line (not the multi tips) WF or DT can be $100! Granted, this is with all the bells and whistles but the “standard” lines are $50 - 70.00. What’s the deal here? The price of materials has not gone up 20 - 40% a year and the technology for pumping out fly lines has not changed enough to justify these prices. It looks like it is “whatever the market will pay” is the rule and “every year ask for more and see if we get it”. So you part with your $100 for a new line and you get an extra 20 ft on your cast or your line is a bit dryer longer. You can get the same thing from cleaning your lines a few more times a year. Sorry fly line manufacturers, but in case you are living in a box, the consumer has voted with there wallets and enough is enough on constantly jacking up prices. Time to come back to reality.

There, I said it and I feel better. Thanks FAOL.

Dr Bob

In the case of $100 lines, I have to agree with Dr. Bob!

DITTO. I have been reduced to scrounging on ebay for cheap used lines and seconds. The last time I was at Bob Marriott’s store I picked up a few “last year” packages of line for under 20 bucks each. I don’t think fly line has a shelf life. I spooled it and it casts fine. I guess since these lines are made from oil by-products they have to pay more for materials but I can’t see that kind of markup. I think it’s like everything else, put it in a pretty box, get trendy, advertise, raise prices.
I clean and dress my lines regularly and get a lot of mileage on them. Jim

I’ve had this conversation with my dad concerning many things.Laundrey detergent,wine and of course fly fishing paraphernalia.How much can you really improve something?When do these “improvements” just translate into more money?Ultimately it comes down to what you want.I have a Scott E2 that I love.I could never see any reason to spend any more on a fly rod and I don’t think I could expect a better fly rod for more money.Others just have to have a T&T with bubinga handles and 18 kt gold reel seats.I think the best thing to do is just to shop smart.The internet is a god send when it comes to finding good deals.good wine on the other hand is worth every penny.

What they said! Lately part of the fly fishing experience is to use ‘moderatly priced’ gear & NOT that high dollar stuff. Fly shops should be on the complaint list too.

I pay about $25-30 for my fly lines, and they serve me well. That’s because I don’t fish more than about 30-40 days a year (in a good year), and my fishing is mainly small stream and small lakes/ponds. Also, I am basically cheap/frugal/stingy whatever you want to call it, and don’t find the need to pay more at my skill level. If I want to be a better fly fisher, I will pay someone to teach me that. The fly line will do nothing for me without the knowledge that makes you better.

On the other hand, I buy the best tools I can afford for my work. I’m skilled in several major areas, and the high quality tools in the hands of a craftsman make the job easier and a higher quality outcome.

Some hobbyists are willing to spend the big bucks so they can have the very best tools for their hobby, and that’s fine also. These same people may also get 2-3 times the water time that I get, and I can see where they just might want better gear.

If I made my living with a fly rod, you bet your sweet pa-tootie I’d spend $100 (or more) on a fly line, and probably around $400-500 for a top quality rod and reel.

The market will always bring out new and different things, and not everyone will agree that it’s any better than last year’s model, but SOMEONE will buy it, and they know it.

Just remember that there is a buyer for EVERYTHING, even though it may not be you or me. these companies wouldn’t be bringing these things to market if they thought they would lose money on them, so let those with the desire and money just go out and buy it. Nobody is forcing anyone to spend any more than they want to. If you want to buy a decent line for a good price, I think Hook & Hackle has some nice “generic” lines that I bought for $20 at a show, and I’ve been happy with them.

Does any of this make any sense? Probably as much as bitching about a $100 line.

I Digress…

Bob,
Too bad you don’t live in Spokane. The White Elephant has 75’ SA lines for $25. I’m sure they are seconds, but at that price, who cares.

I have been dreaming of fitting a glass six weight I acquired with a pimped out 1494 and a $100 DT sharkskin line, probably wont do it, will have to settle for a $35 medalist and a $40 line.

This is a lot like Raceing cars IE Horsepower to weight loosing the first pound and gaining the first horse is relatively inexpensive, Its the last few horses and last few ounces that cost bigtime.

I don’t need the fast cars or the expensive gear, I’m not that into Cars or Fishing.

Eric

Flylines are made with petroleum products, which have gone up substantially recently. Even many less expensive fly lines have creeped up in price the last few years. Many of the lower end flylines available today are on par with the top of the lines from ten years ago, which are still pretty good today.

I’m thankful don’t have to pay the prices that people in some other countries have to pay. When I was in Australia a couple of years ago, found out the flylines there cost about twice what they do here.

I also like good tools…

But…I’m certainly not ready to buy into the hype that just because something costs more, it’s a better product…

Is that ‘$100’ fly line really better than the $50 one I bought last year? THAT’s my problem…if it was really better, I’d be tempted, but I can cast just fine with the one I have…it floats fine…I like the color…what can the ‘new line’ do for me that my old one can’t? Farther casts? They’d have to prove it…Float better? How ‘better’ can something float? It floats or it doesn’t float…My current line floats…I don’t ‘need’ more than ‘floats’. Last longer? I’m getting five or six years from a line now, and that’s the cheap ones…I can’t complain about longetivity…I tend to damage them before they ‘wear out’…

I have a few lines that were ‘top end’ back when I bought them…mostly to support friends fly shops…didn’t care that they were $20 more than they should have been…they worked fine,though. But, I have some $29 lines I bought from a catalog that perform just as well, and in a couple of instances, better…

It is, after all, just a fly line. How ‘good’ does it need to be?

I know that there have been ‘improvements’ in fly line technology…but they’d have to come up with something pretty different and ‘improved’ to get me to pop for the ‘top end’ now…I envision a line that’s the diameter of 4 pound mono, floats regardless of how dirty it is (or sinks precisely)…has a no bump/knot/anything that you could possibly see or catch on connection to the leader, is unbreakable and cant’ be damaged by stepping on it, accidently grabbing it with forceps, or getting stuck between rocks…that functions like a weight forward line (or double taper, whatever you prefer) with no visible taper…is slick enough to slide through even old fashioned wire guides like they aren’t there, and is easily visible to us but invisible to the fish…and never wears out…THAT line, I’d pay $100 for (but first I’d try to find it online for less)…

By the way, did the folks at Scientific Anglers that came up with the name ‘Sharkskin’ fly line actually think about that name BEFORE they started using it…sharkskin is pretty abrasive stuff…my firt thought is that if it’s called that, it will probably destroy line guides pretty quickly…nothing in that name makes me think it would be a ‘good’ fly line…why not call it ‘sandpaper fly line’ or ‘gritty’ fly line?

Buddy

I am using a line that does float higher than others due to the finish of the line. As such, it lifts with less effort from the water. Less effort, I like that. The line has less surface contact with my rod guides and slides through them with less effort. Less effort, I like that. Some fly lines are very slick, so slick that they become sticky, just too smooth. Actually do not go through the guides well. Sometimes a line that is a bit more rough will create less friction and cast better. An example might be the early UK Masterlines. Very rough surface; excellent shooters. Anyway, my line will cast farther than any other line I have ever cast, but that is of little, if any real value. That it does cast at any distance with less effort than any other I do like. Overall, it casts farther, easier and lifts off the water easier than any other line I have ever cast. I like that. My fishing with this line takes less work in the casting and line handling. It is ‘better’ than my other lines. :slight_smile:

My line is better than all the lines on the market, it cast’s, lift’s,shoots and anything else a line can do better than all the others… Why? Cause its the one I have, and I sure can’t do any of those things with a line that’s on the market, and not one that I own…:):):slight_smile:

Its gotta be a Chinese proverb or something like that…:slight_smile:

Cabela’s Prestige and Prestige II. Best line for the money. Period. $35 at the most.

Okay, I’m confused.
Hook and Hackle has AirCel for $40 (less 20% online discount) so really $32 and Cortland 333 for $32 (less 20%) or really $26.
Obviously they have more expensive stuff, but for $100 you better be buying sharkskin.

Take an inexpensive line and treat it with Glide. It will work fine.

I rarely treat my line with anything other than ‘water’. Never had a problem casting, ever. I believe line treatments are a bit overrated. And ‘sharkskin’? Give me a break.

Sitting at a table last year with several FFF Master Casters (not being one of those experts myself) I asked if they treated their lines. All said yes and all said with Glide. These are world class instructors and casting competitors, so that was good enough for me.
All I was saying about Sharkskin was that if you are going to spend $100 that would be the obvious choice. If you haven’t used it, all I can say is that it’s like having rocket powered line (but it will tear up your fingers). Of course, you don’t treat the Sharkskin – sort of defeating the purpose there.

Just keep in mind, these guys were not “FFF Master Casters;” a common mistake and most of them are quite content to let it go like that. They are "Master Fly Casting Instructors. Any I ever talked to that ever cast on a street said that the absolute worst was Glide as it picked up the ‘oils’ faster than any others. Most any of the ‘treatments’ will temporarly make your like a bit slicker. None of them actually soak into your line but wear harmlessly off in a short period of fishing. The next ‘treatment’ may remove some dirt/crud from your line and also make it slick again, and so it continues.

Maybe that sharkskin line does shoot better, but it doesn’t have anything to do with surface contact. Friction is determined by the force pressing two surfaces together and their coefficient of friction. There’s a basic high school physics experiment where you take a block that is wider than it is tall and measure the friction for both sides. It turns out to be the same.

I’m assuming the sharkskin has a non-smooth surface and therefore contacts the guides less than smooth line…kinda like dimples on a golf ball.

But the amount of surface in contact doesn’t affect the amount of friction.