Take a look and let me know what you think. Suggestions and tips wanted! 
First One:
Second One:
Sporting the Detroit Red Wings colors GO WINGS!!! :D, looks really good it shows you put some time in tying that fly.
Those are good looking flies!
Notice how the tips of your red and white slips flow in the tail? The wing should flow like that, too. Other than that nitpicky bit, the flies are great.
Hi,
Those look really good, especially for first attempts! I really like your mixture of the red and white hackle, nice balance (often the red will overpower the white). I think the gold tag could be shorter, maybe half itās current length? The oval rib looks to be better sized than the flat tinsel in the 2nd one. Uni makes flat tinsel in a number of sizes, 16 being the smallest, which I find suits wets up to size 12. And, as mentioned, work on getting the wing tips to marry; youāve got them tied in so nicely itās a shame not to have the join go all the way. That being said, when you fish them, after a few fish the wings usually get beat up anyway. Iāve tied a very similar pattern, with the wing being 3 strips, white/red/white, the tail is just mixed red/white fibres, and the rib is silver. Iāve caught a few nice rainbows on it, and my grandfather used to use it on brookies all the time and it was one of his go to patterns (along with the parmachene belle).
Anyway, keep at it. Those are both very fish catching ties there. Nice job.
- Jeff
speechless. from an ignorant-to-this-style standpoint, those look really good. i do like the oval tinsel in the first one better though. just a little more elegant.
nice ties!
Jordan
Make ur tail not as long the thinner tinsel looks much better, even try silver/gold wire for the ribbing. Head a little thick to keep the sleek look.
If you really want to see some good spey flies go to www.speypages.com and check out what those guys tie up.
They offer really good advice too.
I forgot to mention as well tie in your wing before you do you hackle(that will help for a smaller head as well), a tip they gave to me also was to strip one side of the feather so that the hackle is more sparse.
Also they mention to start you tag at the hook point, makes for proper proportions. I am no expert at all since I just started but just passing along info I have received.
Other than that for your first time, looks great.
Thanks for all the kind words and very helpful suggestions!
I too thought the flat tinsel rib looked like a bit much. Its always nice when your gut feeling is steering you in the right direction. 
As far as the wingā¦are there any tips on how to get the edges of the slips to line up? They looked great till I tied em in.
Also, when I positioned the wings, they were leaning back a bit more (more parallel to the body), and as I tightened my loose wraps, they popped up. Any way to minimize this?
Tag is definitely something I can work on. Any proportional rule of thumb? I just went 5 wraps because thatās what the tutorial I was using suggestedā¦but my tinsel was wider than what was used, so it makes sense itād be a bit big.
I also notice now that my 2nd attempt has a bit of thread peeping out at the start of the bend, but its no problem to fix that.
Hows the floss work look? I thought it turned out pretty good, but not perfect.
Again, Iād like to thank everyone for the replies so far, and look forward to even more! Probably more than any other single source, the internet and the great people who critique my ties are most responsible for improvements I make.
Very nice flies!
The brook trout arround here would be all over those flies.
Take care,
chris
nice work. Iād go just a bit longer w/ the wing - so the up sweep starts above the bend.
Awesome first and second attempts. Dat Boy Got Talent!
You have inspired me to do some married wing wets this weekend.
For porportions on the tag usually start it above the barb and make it as long as half the distance from the barb to the hook point-whatever that distance is.
For teeny-tiny heads I think about the purpose for each wrap of thread when I get to the head and concentrate more on making sure the wraps are as firm as possible and placed exactly where I want them. (0n more functional flies I donāt pay as much attention to the wraps, but with married wing wets it makes a difference)
BTW, patterns like that also deserve a cool old-timey box of some sort, dontchathink.
Oh yeah,
For more teeny-tiny tag wraps I have been using this bag of really finely cut gold mylar (like 1mm), and wrapping up and back over itself. When I want to use metal tinsel I carefully cut down my wide tinsel down the middle with an Xacto. -but mostly I use the skinny mylar stuff.
BTW, patterns like that also deserve a cool old-timey box of some sort, dontchathink.
Yup. Unless I pick up an older rod, Iāll be fishing these with my 4wt Diamondglass, and again, unless I find an older one, the old Perrine box I found at a bait shop last summer for $3.
Still looking for a steal of a deal on a glass rod older than myself by a decade or so. 
As far as the tag, thanks for the proportion guide. I used the mylar, tied in at the bend. 5 wraps down, 5 wraps back, each one overlapping half the width of the previous one. Looks great, but containing the flare of the last wrap has been a bit tricky. I think Iāll try wrapping back well onto the shank so itāll lay down nicer.
great looking first attempts!
For your first attempts, you did very well. Now letās help you out a bit. If your tying the flies the way they look in Ray Bergmanās book Trout then let me ad a few things. The tag at the back of the fly for a size 6 or a size 8 hook is five wraps of tinsel back and followed by 5 overlapping turns forward. Tail On a size 6 and 8 hook two quill segments of white and two quill segments of Red would be used. Now two strands of floss would be used tyed in at the back and wrapped forward with just a slight over lap to give you a nice smoothe tapered body. Now the throat two colors of schlappen can be used or Hen Saddle. Take a look at some of my flies that Noman listed under my board name of Fontinalis. I use a reverse pinch to tye in the throat/beard. Now the wings are cocking up because the head section needs to have the thread base even. You have a little step down that does cock the wings up right. Now if I was tying in a full collar hackle I would tye this in last after the wings were set and secured. Now when using mylar tinsel for the bodies for ribbing try using a size 16/18. It really looks nice and adds class and elegance to the fly. Lastly on married wings make sure the two sections that you are marrying are first from the same side of the bird meaning right wing married to right wing and left wing married to left wing. Secondly make sure the two quill segments come close to the same area of the feather. meaning idf the white came from the middle of the wing make sure the red does to. It will make a weak wing that will want to pull apart or bend/fold over if the wihite is from the bottom of the feather and the red from the top. You did a very nice job. Please click on the link below and it will show you a fly with a married wing I tyed that might help for you to imitate. Any questions please ask.
Sincerely
Andy Brasko
http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq348/Fontinalis/Blk_white_3.jpg
Lots of advice here. You MAY do a beard hackle as Andy suggests if youāre going for Bergman-style flies , or not, and I would vote not. Helen Shaw didnāt, and most wet fly tiers with some notable exceptions wrapped their hackle, including Ray Bergman. The fact that you did NOT pull the hackle down is absolutely fine. Many wet flies were done that way, and Helen Shaw has an entire book full of them.
I think your flies are quite good in many respects. If you had used a finer flat tinsel on them the tags would have been shorter. Traditionally, the tinsel should be flat, though there were some early wet flies that did have oval tinsel.
You seem to have used a salmon fly hook for this one, Iām not sure why. No big deal, they were used on early versions from Mary Orvis Marbury. To get the wing sections lined up a little better, try to match the lower end of the top section with the upper end of the lower section. And, as Andy suggests, use sections from the same areas of the feather. If the top section pulled forward as you mounted the wing, you didnāt have a good enough grip with your left thumb and middle finger on the upper part of the wing slips. This happens to everyone. Great job for an early effort! Some finer tinsel is in order!
Eric
for tying wet flies try to find a copy of
Flies For Fish and Fisherman: Wet Flies by Hellen Shaw
Trout by Ray Bergman
You seem to have used a salmon fly hook for this one, Iām not sure why. No big deal, they were used on early versions from Mary Orvis Marbury.
To be honest, the why is that 1) I had them on hand, 2) I didnt have any long shank wet fly hooks on hand, except 14 & smaller, and 3) I always like to learn on a big hook then move to smaller stuff.
On that note, I DID pick up a small pack of sz. 10, long nymph/wet fly hooks for this purpose.
You guys are providing so much great help! I cant wait to get back to the bench to give it another try.
I also made a discovery about those wingtips not lining upā¦while they;re not perfect, a quick stroke of the fingers had the wing on that first fly looking much better than it did. Iāll have to take another pic to show. Still not perfect, like I said, but better.
On the shopping list, should mother nature allow us to have safe roads in SWPA today:
-Smaller flat mylar tinsel
-Red Hackle (The stuff pictured is white that I hit with a permanent markerā¦hit the feather, the paper underneath, the benchtop underneath that, my fingers, the white hackle, the wing feathers, and everything else within a 2 mile radius is more like itā¦looked like a B-grade horror flick)
-Goose shoulder
-various waterfowl for wings
ā¦any other suggestions?
Id just like to say again that I really appreciate the help. It never ceased to amaze me how when it comes to tying, it seems like some really impressive talents, the current leaders in their respective specialties, are so accessible and very very willing to help and encourage.
Thanks, and more pictures soon!
Well, I didnt get to the fly shop as Iād have liked to, but I did get to tie another Ibis & White. Check it out and let me know what you think. I went with the oval gold tinsel again because it seemed to fit better than the flat. I shortened the tag by only making 3 wraps down & back instead of 5. I tried to get the wing better aligned.
Also itās now tied on a nymph/wet fly hook (a size 10).
One other lesson too: dont pre-marry a bunch of slips on your desk. Youāll eventually forget yourself and accidentally blow an hourās worth of work into your scrap bin. Grrrā¦
Without further ado, though, the pictures:
Wow, those are some nice looking flies. I donāt have the patience but they are nice looking flies. Almost too pretty to use on a fish (almost 
)
Jeff
Looks a lot better to me! Some good hooks to use on these are the Mustad 3399s, available now by mail order only. http://www.fishusa.com/Mustad-3399-Wet-Fly-Hook_p.html
These hooks are used by Don Bastian, Andy Brasko, me, and others, and they are just about perfect for the American wet flies. You donāt really want ālong shankedā hooks for these flies, though Iām sure thereās not a whole lot wrong with using one.
The gap on a nymph hook is a little narrow, and any width in the the wing makes the wing seem too wide for the gap, out of proportion. Wing width does vary on these flies, from about 1/2 a gap to the whole gap in width. Bergmanās hackle extended to about the hook point, but Helen Shaw took her hackle to the hook bend. Youāll find lots of variations with wet flies over the years, and no hard and fast rules really.
Wings typically extend to the hook bend, or to half way down the tail, depending on style. Even in Trout these lengths vary somewhat, though Don Bastian will say that the tip extends to halfway down the tail. J. Edson Leonard and the European tiers generally only take the tip of the wing to the hook bend.
Good luck with these, youāre doing great!
Eric