I have a 7 wt rod and would like to install a fighting butt on it, an 1 1/2 or so . How do i go about removing the hardware present. I am going to assume once i figure the ID. , i can get an insert of the proper size, and install it permanately. I am worried about screwing up the removal job . any help would be good. thanks,
heinrich
Does it currently not have a butt on it? if it does not have one then heating the butt cap to get it off wiil work. Then take a short piece of a broken blank and extend it about 1"-1.5" out the rear of the blank and make a cork butt to epoxy onto it is the easiest method.
Steve
You can also get inserts and removable hardware from folks like Mudhole, but Steve’s suggestion is what I would likely do, too.
Steve’s idea of heating is great but he’s not going into detail about the heat…Thats the problem with us experienced builders that we forget the small items that newbies don’t know.
The heating process can be via a heat gun, hot water–but no flame!!!
Is the seat a metal one? If so, take a heat gun and go over the very bottom of the cap in a wavy motion and with a heavy glove on the other hand, pull off the cap.
You can take some boiling water and emerse the seat into that and pull it out every 5 minutes and keep checking on this until you can pull the cap off. Resist the temptation to unscrew the cap. Thats another story…
I like water over dry heat,as the heat radiates up the metal threaded barrel to the wood spacer --if there is one.
Randy
I know heat will work for epoxy…will it work if glue was used? Does the brand of glue make a difference.?
Do you know what type of glue was used? Epoxy is pretty standard for that service, so I’d assume that it was used.
Also, if you don’t have an insert laying around you could put in a removable fighting butt which would have an insert with it. That’s what I’d do in your case, but then I happen to have one laying around. If you just have cork rings and will be turning it from scratch, then I’d go with Steve’s method.
Here’s a link to some removable prefabricated fighting butts with the insert included.
http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/cork-fighting-butts/280747.aspx
$7.75 plus $1.44 for the insert in case you go without the FB.
As far as matching the diameter, you can wrap the insert with masking tape to bring the diameter up to where it would fit. Then epoxy in place.
ItS an old IMX, so i really dont know what the guy who put the butt section together has done inside, left any room etc. i am kind of afraid to take this mess on fearing i might do more damage than i want to.
You’re not going to mess it up. Get an old pan and boil some water and take it off.
If you feel the need to have someone watch over you or watch someone do it for you. call me. I’m right up the road about 30 minutes. I’ll set up the stove and boil it off for you. We can make a fighting butt for it right there. Pick out some cork rings and we can sand them down on the lathe and install it.
Randy
well, its off, but Loomis used a 1 pc barrel , nut, slider and butt cap. now what?
epoxying it back together
Hello flybugpa, well if the whole reelseat came off, now is the perfect opportunity to choose another that suits your needs better, i.e. one that has a fighting butt option and that prolly will look better than putting a fighting butt on what you have since it apparently wasn’t designed for one. I’m curious though, so i have to ask…there isn’t a butt cap that was expoxied on at the end of the reel seat installation process? I’ve not seen many of those so i wonder if someone did such a good job that you aren’t seeing the parting line just ahead of and between the butt cap and the barrel of the reel seat. Maybe take another look-see…if you discover there is a butt cap, life just got easier…otherwise, have fun selecting a newer prettier reel seat with fighting butt option. Hope this helps a bit.
Cheers,
MontanaMoose
nope this was a 1 pc deal, i epoxied it back on