Fast sinking streamers: the Sockeye Shiner

Not a good photo. My normal closeup equipment is all packed away for house remodeling. But this is a good fly. Sparse. Synthetic. Flexible. And weighted too. That’s what you need to sink quickly. Crystal Flash and Pearl Ice Dub are lashed to a snelled hook. A split shot is flattened around the snell, just in front of the loop knot. Plastic eyes are glued to the flattened split shot. Casts like a bullet. Sinks like a stone. And catches well too.

Here’s the original article, as it appeared in Fly Tyer, Spring 1988 ==> Sockeye Shiner <==

Dressing:

scud hook
0x flourocarbon snell
crystal flash
ice dub
split shot
stick on eyes
CA glue (or epoxy)
14/0 white thread

I tie the snell. Then mount the snell to a horizontal #12 beading needle just long enough to lash on some Crystal Flash and Ice Dub. Slide it off the needle. Squeeze on a split shot. Flatten the split shot with smooth jawed needle nose pliers. Stick on some eyes. Surround the head with glue (epoxy or ZapAGap). Thin 14/0 thread helps to keep the front end of the snell narrow enough to pinch into the split shot.

Faster than a speeding minnow. More powerful than a darting Bugger. Able to tempt brown trout with a single cast.

Thats an interesting concept. It is very similar in construction to the Snake Flies that are used here for Sea Trout (Salmo Trutta Fario). They are tied on a braided loop with a hook snelled to the open end. If you made your own mounts you could incorporate the eyes in the loop to make them very secure. I’ll try to get hold of some braid and tie one up to photograph. Here’s an example.
Cheers,
A.

RE> AlanB’s idea about eyes incorporated in the loop, sea trout style

I want to see that.

Look Down!

You’ll need, Some hollow braided mono, a hook, dumbell eyes and a large needle.

Fold the brain not quite in half, Miss the half way point by about 1/2 inch (12mm) Put the longer end of the braid into the eye of the needle (Mine was too small and made this difficult, use a LARGE needle) Then thread the needle into and out of the braid an eye width from the bend in the braid and out again. Pull the braid through.

This double length of braid will be where the head of the fly is located.

Make a small loop then pull the braid into itself for the full length of the braid.

Put the eyes into the loop and pull the inner length of braid to tighten it up

Trim the braid so both inner and outer are the same length. Thread the hook shank into the open end of the braid.

Put the hook in your vice and whip the braid to the hook shank.

If you want to stiffen the head with a little CA glue it will make tying easier. Now tie whatever you like on it. When you form the head it will tighten up the loop holding the eyes. How long you make them is also up to you. The great advantage of these flies is that they don’t provide leverage for the fish to get off. Which can happen with long shank hooks.

Cheers,
A.

Thanks Alan. I like that.

Alan -

Wow - my mind was boggled last night when I first looked at your post, and this morning it is even more boggled !!

That is one of the few truly unique things I have seen for tying flies. Is it your creation, or should I thank someone else for the headache ??

John

The idea of the snake mount isn’t mine. It has been around here for a good few years. The extra loop to hold the dumbbell eyes is my adaption of it. Now I have a little more time I’ll finish off by tying something on it. May as well now I’ve made the mount.
Cheers,
C.

Right I’ve thrown a few materials at that mount just to give you the idea. Here it is.

Cheers,
C.