hi all
im about to embark on building my first rod and this is probably a really dumb question what kind of drill but/cutting tool would you use to make the recess in the bottom of you grip for an uplocking reel seat?
thanks
tyler
Hmmm… I didn’t have to make a hole. Did you buy a precut grip or a blank?
I have seen several different ways to do it. One is a modified spade bit. A 1/4" pilot is brazed to the spade bit where the point is to center the hole. Another is similar in that there is a pilot and removable blades to set the hole diameter.
If you are really careful, you can use a Dremel and hog it out, but you have to take it slow. I would imagine that if you had a way to hold the grip solid, you could use a Forstner bit in a drill press, too.
I am sure there are other ideas out there, too.
Of course, the easiest way, is to order the grip with the cutout already done. Several of the vendors will do that for you for a nominal fee.
Tyler,
Are you talking about how you bore the center hole, which would be a drill bit, or are you talking about the inlet for the reel feet sit and are covered by the locking rings?
Greybeard
Use a forstner bit.
And turn at a very slow speed! You cut the recess for the hood with a Dremel and a cylindrical grinding stone about 1/4 inch in diameter after the main recess has bee cut. The VERY FIRST STEP is to center, and then trace the outline of, the hooded metal part onto the cork with a ball point pen to serve as a guide. I highly recommend first practicing on a single cork ring.
Some reel seats have a cork ring with them that is inletted so that you can just glue it to the end of the grip - I have some and would be willing to send you one.
Let’s not do anything that is simple, easy to do, and makes sense. It’s a thread killer. :lol:
thanks for the responses guys,
i was talking about the recess to put the metal ring into the the real foot would lock into, it looks like the fostner bit is my best bet, i have already glued and spun/ shaped my handle, but i wanted to use some burl and i couldn’t really find any that were already bored, plus i wanted to make the grip so it would fit my hand
thanks again
tyler
The first handle I glued up and turned, I used a Dremel with a half inch dia ?drum sander? to bore out the recess for the reel seat. I bored out the cork ring before gluing up and only went thru 2 rings to get it right. Some reel seats are made to be mortised in the cork and have a knurled lip that will cover any slight imperfections in the hole (like a winding check). This is where a forstner bit will come in handy. A couple handles I made I bought pre formed cutout rings that were made for just the foot housing. Again glued these up before turning. Some different options to keep in mind for the next one.
I believe what you are looking for is called a “Crafty’s Cutter” … use Google and you should easily find it.
I have used a piece of thin metal tubing (thin wall electrical conduit) to cut the recess. Cork cuts quite easily with just hand pressure. I found the tubing made a cleaner cut than a forstner bit.
I chucked the tubing in my lathe and used a metal file to sharpen one end to a bevel. I added some ‘saw teeth’ to the bevel using a triangular file, but I’m not sure this was needed. Then I drilled out a blank cork ring by hand using slight downward pressure over a cutting board. The ring was then glued onto the end of a pre-formed cork handle and shaped to size.
If the your handle is already glued up (so you can’t add a new cork ring) you could use this system to cut the outer ring profile then use a dremel burr or an undersized spade bit or forstner bit to hog out the interior.
That is a great idea! I have made cutters this way for other things and they have worked quite well.
Cork- Dan Craft Crafty cutter-http://www.dancraftent.com/detail/index.cfm?nPID=1659
or flex coat pilot bit.
Wood Handles- a forstner before chucking and placing on mandrel
or what I use after I turn it is pilot bit made for large timber framing
applications modified a bit.
http://www.morriswoodtool.com/Counterbores.htm
i just replace the center bit with a 5/16" drill rod and counter bore for my arbors and ahve a different size for my insets in handle- 13/16", 3/4", 11/16" covers my needs and then enlarge with a drum sander. I ahve even sarted using thes on my cork, but I use the burl cork which is denser than regular cork.
It’d be lots easier if you all just used DOWN LOCKING reel seats!!!:rolleyes:
Betty? Didnt you read Kevin’s post???
EASY is just going to the fly shop and buying a new rod, Easier still, orerding a new rod on line! But whats the fun in THAT???:rolleyes:
DUH!!! <slapping forehead> 
I used the ones for 1/4" drill rod…but I only ever needed 2 different sizes for cork. HI speed…extremely slow feed…and it cuts as clean as a factory made grip has
All good points here.
The best is to start with centering it and drawing onto the cork so you have a line to follow. I have used forstner bits and spade bits but the spade bit didn’t cut cleanly.
One thing I did is use a 5/8" bit for a 3/4" hole and use my sanding drum on my dremel tool to finish it. GO SLOW!!!
Most reel seats have a small ring that stops the seat from going too far into the cork. Use that to cover up any SMALL imperfections. Most times, that ring just covers up my pen marking on the cork. Remember to dry fit several times as you go.
Now that I use the crafty cutter, it gets done quickly and cleanly.
I have seen it recommended to turn the bit in reverse when using a spade, or butterfly, bit; which obviously requires a reversible drill. Apparently the cut is cleaner and there is less likelihood of ruining the cork ring. Have never tried it myself.