Trust me any info you can get from Jim Smith has been tried and works great. Have some of Jims flies that he tied and they look great. I also set up a lathe like Jim suggested and in a matter of a min or two I also have great looking bugs. Once past the short learning curve you will also put out some great looking bug bodies.
Nothing against capt paul I just do not know anything about him but if Jim learned from him then the info is top notch.
Happen to have this photo so will share…it would be interesting to see how folks mount their tools…
I explain the process here: http://www.flytyingforum.com/pattern6910.html. When doing this work I generate a LOT of foam dust for which reason I always wear glasses and a buff (instead of a face mask). Buffs look cooler. I also wear an apron.
Finding a #8215 grinding head isn’t always easy to find and I get mine from this site: http://www.mytoolstore.com/dremel/alumox.html#911.
I have done a lot of different work since posting that pattern and have found that this approach is uncomfortable for many folks. You absolutely cannot do it this way if your hand trembles. I generally rest my wrists on my stomach for extra steadiness. For this reason, I would not suggest starting this way unless you are wiling to practice a lot and screw up a lot of flies. HOWEVER, by using the grinding wheel on the tool instead of mounting the foam on the tool, I can more easily create rounded edges. Most of all, the finish on the popper bodies is completely smooth.
I’ve worked foam with a dremel/rotary tool several ways:
On the rotary tool using the mounted tool as a lathe.
Holding the foam with something (tried several methods) and working it against a bit or drum on the mounted tool.
Mounting the foam onto the hook, then shaping it with bits/drums mounted in the hand held tool.
All have good points and bad points.
Using the tool as a lathe produces the fastest and most consistent results, especially if you want to make more than just a few dozen bodies. It’s also cheaper to do, since the ‘cutting’ is done with an inexpensive emory board and the final polish, if you want one, can be done with 600-1500 grit abrasive paper. One piece of abrasive paper will last for thousands of bodies (I always misplace it before it wears out) and you can do several hundred bodies with one emory board ($.99 for 12 at WalMart).
The drawbacks? You have to find a way to mount the tool. You have to go buy the collet set and mount the needle properly (or buy one of those neat dremel mandrels that are now available). You have to find a way to make the cylindrical foam ‘blanks’ that are the starting point of the foam turning porcess. All of this requires a bit of know how, ingenuity, and desire to make it all work. Lots of folks just don’t want to bother with all of this, or they just don’t have the mindset or skills to do so.
Mounting the tool and using a sanding drum or bit in it while you hold the foam against the tool is probably the easiest method for the tyer who only needs a few dozen bodies, doesn’t want to bother with punches or such, and isn’t too concerend about consistency in the final product. All you need is the tool, a way to hold it steady (a simple clamp wil do, a bench vise, or even a bit of duct tape and a table), and a way to hold the foam. Sticking a bodkin or needle through it is the typical method. You can start with foam cut into blocks, or whatever piece is handy. You can make non ‘centered’ bodies easier this way.
Drawbacks? Takes longer to make the bodies. They won’t be too ‘even’ since the foam doesn’t turn and counts on the eye/hand of the operator to keep them centered and straight (it’s a fly, it’s not all that critical anyway). It’s hard to get a really smooth surface with this method, since they don’t make sanding drums in a very fine grit. You can sand them by hand, but that’s really time consuming…but remember that ‘really smooth’ may not be needed at all for the body to fish just fine.
Shaping the body on the hook while holding the tool in the hand. This is the ‘simplest’ method, but takes by far the most time. You can get really in to this method. We had a recent article here about a tyer that did this type of work on a frog headed bait (I think he held the foam on a bodkin, but the principle is the same). The results can range from amaturish to pure art. It’s by far the best, if not the only, way to get complicated shapes and details into a popper body.
Drawbacks? Doing it well requires skill, and it’s not easy to do the first few times you do it unless you are good with this kind of thing already. If you aren’t a good carver, or into sculpture, you may want to just glue a square piece of foam to the hook and then round off the edges. That cetainly works just as well.
I use all of these methods, plus a few others, to make topwater bodies. Whatever method works for you, understand that other methods may work as well or even better for others. There is no ‘right’ way to do this, and as long as the results suite the user, it’s all good.
Plus, of coure, it’s loads of fun.
Buddy
I originally started with my Dremel mounted the way Jim Hatch mentioned in his article. I soon found that holding the Dremel in my left and and either an Emory board or small jeweler’s file in my right hand gives me the most flexibility. With the pointed and curved jeweler’s file I can cup out the face of the popper in about 10 seconds. I have full access to the popper body and I can really crank out the poppers. I start with round flip flop foam that I have punched out with bullet casings. I drill out the primer so that I can slip a 9/32 inch bolt into the shell casing so that the threaded part comes out the back of the shell. Then I tighten down two nuts and I now have a punch that fits in any drill or drill press and takes no time at all to punch out 50 or 60 “blanks”. I have these punches in several sizes from 22 caliber upto 50 caliber. Once I have a dozen or so bodies shaped, I slip them onto a piece of piano wire and hit them with a bit of spray paint. This colors the top and blends nicely into the sides. If I want to add scales, I use a piece of cloth mesh (think bridal veil) and hit them with just a small spritz of different color paint. The base coat might be gold and the top coat black or dark green. They’re now ready to slip onto the hook that has a good coat of thread on the shank. A drop of superglue and the body is locked in place. After the fly has been tied, I like to give them a coat of epoxy to add shine (for me) and durability and to help keep the eyes on.
It’s obvious that everyone has their own system, but this works great for me.
Jim Smith
Thanks for the help. it looks like i might have a tool by this weekend then i just have to get some foam.
Go to Sears and go back in the parts dept. and see if they sell reconditioned tools. This is where I get mine as I use the Industrial grade with flex shaft which is thinner than dremel brand and is not made of plastic. Last twice as long as Dremel also. I am getting ready to switch over to an air tool which are much better, last longer and much heavier duty for other jobs.
FOr what it’s worth, I’ve had good luck using round toothpicks for the mandrel. I do put a layer of thread down on the hook before mounting the foam body, the fit seems just right to me
This entire thread has been very helpful…Thanks ya’ll
If you are going to begin a commercial production the B&D Wizard below is not adequate. For personal use it is a dream. I upgraded the battery to the longer life version and added a variable diameter chuck to mine so I can use any round object up to 1/8" diameter. I have a section of a biopsy needed that makes very good damsel fly tails and parachute post. These seem to have gotten hard to find.
