I’m looking for any info on either transferring designs or direct application of designs onto cork grips. I’ve seen some designs made by using a wood burner, but have wondered how the design was originally tranferred to the grip before burning? I have only played around a little with a wood burner and trying to do it free hand leaves no margin for mistake. I have also tried transferring a design following directions using a transfer tip with no sucess.
If anyone has any secrets on using a wood burner , or for that matter any other method on how to apply designs to a cork grip I hope you’ll share your secrets. Many Thanks…Ed
Although I’m not allowed to use things that result in burning (or sharp things, either!:p), an idea for transferring the pattern to the cork MAY/COULD be found in the fabric store. They have tracing paper, that when placed between the cork and the pattern, can be traced with a ball point pen, or other fairly sharp object, on to the cork. Then the burning tool could be used to carefully follow the pattern you’ve traced. Hold the tracing paper/pattern in place with painters tape. I’d suggest practicing on a piece of flat cork, before trying on a “real” grip.
In the old days, before the computer revolution, I did a fair bit of manual drafting. We used to make our own version of carbon paper to make transfers.
We would get the pencil lead ‘dust’ from a lead pointer and mix it with naptha (lighter’s fliud) This slurry was rubbed onto the back of a piece of paper with a paper towel. (very messy, use gloves!)
When the stuff dried out you had a sheet of ‘carbon’ paper that made a pencil mark when ever you traced over it with a ball point pen. The advantage of this over carbon paper is the marks it made could be removed with an eraser.
For a small project you could xerox the design onto a sheet of 8 1/2" X 11" paper and scribble pencil all over the back side. Use a soft lead pencil (like 2B) for best results. This could be taped over the handle and the pattern traced with a ball point pen.
Post it labeling and cover up tape works good also, any type of removable tape should work..
You can also carve directly into wood through the tape...
Like anything else practice really improves the outcome...
Just a follow up here…Tried the carbon paper ( that didnt work/ cork is soft and didnt want to take the transfer)
Tried the other method with copy paper ( that didnt work either) not sure why.
Fortunatley I am pretty artistic and have done a lot of free hand stuff.
I managed to get the design on the grip using a very thin black pen, then burned it in with the wood burner. After which I lightly sanded the grip again. It came out pretty good except I’m still not all that happy with the burning tip. I used the thinest tip I had , but I still think I need a finer line. I may have to make a tip on my own. I’m not ready to offer any burnt grips yet, without a lot more practice and better renditions.
You might try a battery operated cauterizer it has a super small tip. Mine is called Power Zap. I got it from Bass Pro a couple of years back. Just a suggestion. It heats up to 1200 degrees. John
IMO, there is only one way to do it with success. Put your graphic onto a flashdrive or CD. Take it to the nearest trophy shop with a laser engraving machine. Give them the grip and $15-20 and watch the magic. BEAUTIFUL work everytime. I have done various fish images over the years, names, quotes, etc. Done in bulk, it costs even less per grip - around $5-6.
Figured I’d show you my first attempt at burning an image on a cork grip. Like I said above , I still need a lot of practice and a finer tip, but it was fun doing. This was strictly all free hand at doing a stripper on my own personal 9ft 9wt that I use to fish for that species.
