Finally got the proportions and hook type right on this deer hair mouse. I saw this pattern on Youtube, it’s the Deer Hair Mouse by Andreas Andersson. Not a complicated tie when it comes to deer hair flies.
Enjoy,
Alberto
Not complicated!! My eyes cross just thinking about it!!!
Could you post the YouTube link please, I’m too lazy to look for myself!!!
Thanks,
Mike
Mike,
Here is the link to the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHAGrBGo1Ys
It is a long video, 40 minutes or so, as most deer hair patterns tend to be, but Andreas does a great job explaining the techniques he uses. I called the fly non complicated because it uses two techniques to fill the hook with deer hair. The belly is a clump of deer hair that gets rolled to the bottom of the hook, then flared. The back of the fly is a clump, with tips left intact, that gets tied on top like an elk hair caddis wing. Then secure both clumps, pack, and repeaat. When compared to other bass bugs, it’s less complicated.
Alberto
Very nice rodent, Alberto.
Regards,
Scott
This is one of my favorite patterns to tie. It also works very well on the Ausable at night and not bad for Bass in the Florida lakes. Great job on this one. Keep’em coming.
Thanks Alberto! Ae you tying at the NH Show this year?
Mike
Mike,
Unfortunately not, we have family from NY that comes up every year on that weekend to go skiing. I have not tied at that show in a couple of years. I’m working on switching this family visit to another weekend.
Alberto
Very nice tie, Alberto. I forgot who wrote the article, but it has been pointed out that the ears and eyes are probably more for the tier than the fish, so I tend to favor patterns that emphasize profile over details personally (e.g. Morrish Mouse or Master Splinter). One suggestion I would make is you might want to rethink your hook choice. I know I tend to like having as much gape as I can get away with, and deer hair mouse patterns tend to crowd classic streamer hooks a bit too much for my taste. For bass something like the TMC8089 is usually favored, but that can be too light for other species. I like the B10, and some favor even heavier hardware, but that might be something else to consider when you go into production, especially considering you are in an area where you might go after pike, musky, etc. Just a thought.
Okay Alberto I’m going to try to get to Concord on a Wednesday night before the tying closes down. I didn’t make the show last year but I’m going to try this year.
Good skiing to you and the family, hopefully there will be snow for you.
Mike
Whatfly,
Hook gap is definetely important and should not be overlooked in bass bugs. The hook on that fly is a Mustad 3366, size 2/0. You are correct, a streamer hook would not be ideal. Another good option would be a Mustad 37187 but the only sizes I have are 6 and 10 (too small) and 1/0 (a possibility but this hook is hard to find so I save those for when I get comfortable with a pattern). I think the angle of the fly in the photo is hiding some of the actual gap. The fly is laying cantered to one side due to hair.
Regards,
Alberto
I use the Mustad 37187 Stinger on many of my bass patterns to include the mouse. Yes, the 37187 is now hard to find, but I have a ton of them in sizes 1/0, #2 and #6. I don’t particularly like the design, but have landed several 6-8 pound bass and one Carp without a problem. Don’t know about Pike and such, but works for my game fish. Alberto, if you want, I’ll sent you a dozen or so of these. No charge, since I enjoy your pictures.
I agree that the detail in the standard mouse pattern doesn’t matter allot to the fish at night, but I enjoy putting the detail into them. Better then some of the ugly patterns that don’t even look like a mouse. After all, realism in tying is fun and challenging.
WhatFly’s post
“Very nice tie, Alberto. I forgot who wrote the article, but it has been pointed out that the ears and eyes are probably more for the tier than the fish, so I tend to favor patterns that emphasize profile over details personally (e.g. Morrish Mouse or Master Splinter). One suggestion I would make is you might want to rethink your hook choice. I know I tend to like having as much gape as I can get away with, and deer hair mouse patterns tend to crowd classic streamer hooks a bit too much for my taste. For bass something like the TMC8089 is usually favored, but that can be too light for other species. I like the B10, and some favor even heavier hardware, but that might be something else to consider when you go into production, especially considering you are in an area where you might go after pike, musky, etc. Just a thought.”
I appreciate it when someone uses the term gape correctly! 
Gap is actually a different measurement on the top of a curved shank hook.
As a fussy word guy it bothers me like someone using the term palmering when wrapping a body with touching turns!
Hap,
I did not know that about gap and gape, thanks!
Alberto
Many misuse the terms and I suppose they have become so misused that either could be considered correct… the State of Alaska calls it gap, but they go on to define it so it is at least legal… I tend to stick to history…
After reading Hap’s post, I visited several websites which publish the parts of a fish hook. I found only one that uses the measurement as Gap and it was in Australia. The others use Gape. To tell you the truth, I had always used Gap. So, now I am educated:) Thanks
Did not mean to cause a dust-up but accuracy is very important to me and getting it right and consistent is easier on everybody!