Not sure if this should go in the rod building section, if so i’ll move it. On the most recent issue of northwest fly fisher (summer 2006) there is a pictures on pg. 67 of a small mouth bass and a rod. The rod has a cork handle that extends to the end of the rod, acting as the reel seat. Is this a “traditional design” for the purists? Or just a personalized thing? Thanks for any input.
-David
I have & have had a number of rods with cork reel seats, NO problems & lighter weight. I had a guy turn down a Scott G series 844-5 because “a friend told him that cork reel seats are no good”. I say: “Bushwah, baby” I have had more trouble (twice) with downlocking reel seats (reels ended up in the river, thank God for the Arbor knot). So, I for one, am in favor of the cork seat!!! (Except on a Winston, they use some beautiful wood)
Later,
Peter
Then again, some are just born stupid,
(“a friend told him that cork reel seats are no good”.)
and stay that way…
Dear Mountain Laker,
I have an Orvis 1 weight with a cork reel seat and sliding bands to hold the reel foot in place. I’ve never had any trouble with it holding the reel securely.
Still, I don’t think I’d consider a cork reel seat, or any sliding bands, on a rod much larger than a 2 or 3 weight and on my smallmouth rods which are 7 and 8 weight rods I want a metal reel seat with double uplocking rings.
That’s just me though.
Best Wishes,
Avalon
Don’t you think it might be a personal choice? Some folks just like the look and feel of cork…and yes, it is lighter.
LadyFisher, Publisher of
FAOL
Like anything else, well-designed and built cork seats work well, and poorly executed ones don’t. I like them, but, like LF says, it’s a personal choice. I’ve seen them successfully used up to 6wt rods, but usually on shorter ones, where the weight difference is most noticeable. “Brush busting” rods (very short rods, often for 4-6wt lines) often have screw-lock seats where you might expect cap and ring or double rings, but I’ve often thought screw-lock seats provided a false sense of security on little rods. They work loose, too, and you might be more likely to forget to check. I’ve never had a reel fall out of a properly built cork and ring seat that had the reel fitted to the seat. I use only my very best cork for seats, btw.
if they made more, I’d probably go with all cork reel seats - -hmmmm, another reason to start making my own rods
I have a four weight with a cork seat.
Wonderful rod, I love it. Very light in the hand.
Then again, some years back I had another rod with a cork seat, an 8wt. As I remember the seat lasted only a couple of months before it fell apart and needed to be replaced
May the fish that you catch always be larger than the hole in your net
[This message has been edited by dudley (edited 09 June 2006).]
The older loomis glx’s in 3-4 weights had uplocking reelseats with cork inserts instead of woods,i was told pacbay made the handles back then.I know my two 7’6" 4 weight loomis’ have them and are light at 1.55 oz!
For lighter weight fly rods, there is the option of not using threaded hardware for securing the reel to the reel seat.
You can either chose a setup that had a ring to secure the back of the reel on the reel seat, with a hidden cavity under the handle grip, or you can go with two rings for securing the reel to the reel seat.
The reel seat can be cork, or it can be shaped out of a hardwood, whichever you wish to have on the fly rod assembly.
All options will hold the reel securly to the reel seat.
As stated at the beginning, this reel seat setup is for light weight fly rods.
Parnelli