I can cast small amounts fine, but when I get to 30-40 feet, I cant do it with one hand. If I try with one hand, the rod shakes after I stop (dampening?, which I would imagine cant be good for a cast. I have to use two hands and really whop the rod hard, and the loop unfurls very quickly. With two hands, the rod doesnt shake. What could I be doing wrong?
Anthony,
Sounds as though you’re not properly “loading” the rod in your front and back casts. Don’t worry, your rod’s fine, you don’t need a better rod…
Make time to practice casting, even if it’s only 15-20 per day.
Turn slightly sideways so that you’re casting somewhat in front of you and you can see the line during the front and back cast. Begin your casting and wait 'til the line is juuust about straight then smoothly begin your cast in the opposite direction. Keep the rod tip in an even plain front and back. Get the smooth rhythm down and it becomes second nature.
You’ll be fine…Jim
Well It occurs on the first back cast
Click on the link below. Print it out. Take it outside with your rod and reel. Do it! [url=http://www.flyanglersonline.com/cst/cst3498.html:e26bc]http://www.flyanglersonline.com/cst/cst3498.html[/url:e26bc]
LadyFisher, Publisher of
FAOL
…that’s what I was trying to find for you…
Also, try this,
[url=http://www.jimteeny.com/indexMain.html?content=tripsTips/tripsIntro.html:81247]http://www.jimteeny.com/indexMain.html?content=tripsTips/tripsIntro.html[/url:81247]
Hi Anthony,
Just out of curiosity, are you using a graphite rod or a fiberglass rod? I use to have the same problem when I was casting my old fiberglass rods, when I switched to graphite, the vibrating just about completely stopped. I do aggree with jim though, practice as much as you can, and the problem should stop no matter what type of rod you use. Just have to get your own rhythm down. Take it slow and steady and you’ll work it all out. Good luck, Dave
Tying and Flying is the only way to fish!
Just out of curiosity, are you using a graphite rod or a fiberglass rod?
Its a cheap 8 foot 6 weight graphite rod. I also question the quality of the line. I was told that line that comes with a combo is no good, plus it is a level line. I saw some WF line at a new sporting good store for like 16 bucks.
Yep,
Level line is pretty Bad. Best thing to cast on that type of line is a 5 oz. sinker (LOL). Weight forward line is much easier to cast. I would recomend trying it out, the quality of your line is more important than the quality of your rod. After all, it is the line that casts the flies, not so much the rod. Try cortlands 333 Pro line, it’s good quality, and is around $25-$35 (mid -range price). You’ll get a couple of years out of it as long as you take care of it. Cheaper line dosen’t always work well. The coloring bleeds off and can ruin flies,backing, and anything else it comes in contact with. You’ll cast better with better line. Good luck, Dave
Does WF help even with casts under 40’?
By the way, my line is also very short. How do I know? Well i was able to cast it all. THATS short line.
Most fly lines you buy are 90 feet, some can be 110 feet. If you are casting all your line you are either casting pretty good, or you are right by saying it is a short line. By the way, do you have backing under your line ? If not then you should get some put on before you get new line. Backing helps if you need to play a good fighting fish. Talk to a local fly shop and they’ll tell you how much you would need, and make sure when you put the new line on you don’t reverse it. The ends are marked with a tag that says “this end to backing”. If you put it on backwards, you’ll have the same problem you have witgh level line, it won’t cast well if at all. If you want to look into double taper line ask a shop. A double taper is tapered at both ends insted of one, so you can reverse it after you ware out one tip.
Anthony;
Use the word cheap with caution. Practice can make everything take on a different prospective.
I own a “Cheap” shot gun! A Ruger Red label 20 ga. ($1300.00) It does not fit me right! But, after 1500 birds a week and leasons I became a class “A” skeet shooter (96 out of 100).
I own a Cheap Savage Varmint Rifle ($350.00 with a cheap Tasco Target Scope, $199.00) I have a registered pasture poodle kill at 650 yard’s with it!! Practice, practice, practice!!
I also own a “Cheap” Remington 788 in .308 (95 bucks) that I’ll put up against any Remington 700 (500+ Bucks)any day!!
Practice, practice, practice!!
Anthony, I’m still practicing myself and have a long way to go! 35 years and still a novice!!
Anthony, If you are fishing freshwater, there’s basically no difference in casting performance between a WF and a DT line at the distances you’ll be casting and fishing most, if not all, of the time. The difference doesn’t come into play until you get to longer casts. Since you are on a budget, a DT line will last essentially twice as long since it can be reversed on your reel when the first end you use gets worn out.
Here’s another tip. Get some cheap knitting yarn in white or a light color that is easy to see. Run it through your guides and run a few feet out through your tip top guide --as much as you can handle. Practice casting with it.
The yarn is easy to see and performs much like fly line when it comes to making loops. You can pratice with it outdoors in a relatively small space and you won’t be beating up your fly line practicing on grass. Try getting to the point where you can control whether your loop is tight or open.
The yarn won’t give you the same feel you get lifting line from water to make your back cast, but is very helpful for learning how to control your loops, how to load your rod, and how to make your stops.
The line is about 40 feet for some reason. I have 150 feet of backing, so im all set their. I was considering triangle taper. How much does it cost and how helpful is it for casts less than 40’
Also, I know its probably been discussed, but I dont understand, physically, how DT has an advantage over level line when back casting. Its just one of those concepts I can grasp. I know the shape of each one, but i just dont get it
Anthony, Both lines will cast basically the same until you get into the running line on the WF. The thinner running line will not transfer the energy of the thicker head turning over. With a DT there really is no thin running line.
Anthony
The quest for distance has a strong pull
on new casters, but the real focus should be on mechanics and form. I would highly recommend you buy Joan Wulff’s Dynamics of Fly Casting. You can get this video in VHS or DVD, and it will take you from basics to advanced casting. It will also teach you about the basics of fly lines and even how to hold your fly rod. The best thing about a video is that you can watch the section you are working on over and over until you master it
Anthony,
I think LF and okflyfisher hit it directly on the head for you.
It don’t matter what stick and string you use, put in the STOPS. It is hard to find any stick and any string that will NOT work.
Toss “distance” out the door until you learn the basics. After you learn the basics, ALL ELSE can be added to a CONTROLLED loop. 
…lee s.
those awful cheap kits with the level line turned me off. They cast horribly. If you are getting 40 feet with a level line you are doing well. Trash the level line. Get a DT or WF and practice with the yarn on the end of your line. Forget about distance. Go for accuracy. Distance comes over time. Get rid of that line.
“Give me ambiguity or give me something else”
I agree with the Joan Wulff DVD. Its great. She even casts line with her hands (no rod) to teach you. Another thing is get the book “Master the Cast” [url=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/007137972X/qid=1141389834/sr=2-1/ref=pd_bbs_b_2_1/002-2512487-4046447?s=books&v=glance&n=283155:1d9d3]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/007137972X/qid=1141389834/sr=2-1/ref=pd_bbs_b_2_1/002-2512487-4046447?s=books&v=glance&n=283155[/url:1d9d3]
The “Go to the fly shop and yell help” is the best too, but you might emerge with a lighter wallet than when you walked in. Bass Pro Shops has free casting clinics too. Last but not least, don’t despair - it takes about 4 years to get really good at casting so enjoy each day as it comes. Remember that its 75% presentation, and not so much distance that matters. If you can cast to 60 ft. accurately and with a soft landing you won’t need much more in most cases. -Migs
Anthony, we have a young man about your age that we fish with around my neck of the woods, and while I agree with most of the answers you have got (specially the Joan Wulff) You being young and not sure of your build, I do feel that your gear will play into this. I hate to say this to you but, young men and older women are probably in the same strength class. You are a beginner and starting with older heavier gear is tough. Sure a good caster can cast anything and you will get there, but I do feel it is important early in the game to get a light, very responsive set up. I am not talking 2wt -4wt. but 5wt or 6wt. 9’ med to med/fast light rod and GOOD line. If you are fishing ponds, WF is a good choise. This is my suggestion for what it’s worth.
she who dies with the most toy’s wins.