Cabelas has the Sage VT2 as a complete kit. I have 2 questions - how hard is it to do a good job by hand, ie, no turning machines? Is the kit really complete? Thanks for any info.
You don’t need any fancy turning machines, etc. If you have a fair collection of tools you likely have all you need or can make what you need (some V blocks, etc) Not sure I would start with an expensive Sage but I’m sure you can do it if you have the time
My first rod was a cabelas spinning kit. Not bad at all, but I really don’t like the finish that they provide. I had to replace all of it that I ever used because it lifted up and didn’t stick to any of my rods. I’ve never had that problem with FlexCoat.
The only thing you should need is a rod support for wrapping and a way to tension your thread. You can get by with a cardboard box, a towel or t-shirt (to protect the rod from the box), and a fly tying bobbin. I’d suggest that if you are going to do a high end blank, do some research and pick all of the components out yourself. The kit components will be ok, but if you are going to that level, I’d want to have my choice for everything, including Amtak Titan, SIC, alconite or REC recoil, premium seat and hardware, etc.
The VT2 blanks go for $200-218 on average, so you’re getting a $20 kit to go along with that blank. It’s been my experience that you get what you pay for, so the kit is probably comparable to the standard H&H kit which is just OK, but nothing to write home about. I’m not a fan of big name rods, but if I was building on a $200 blank, I would be using top line components as ol’ blue said. I also agree with his assessment of those squeeze packets of glue & finish. I like to measure my own, and recommend Flex Coat or Threadmaster for the thread finish. I use Devcon 30 minute epoxy from Wal- Mart ($2) with excellent results for the grip and reel seats.
What weight rod were you planning on building? Why Sage for your first rod? Pretty fancy for a first rod.
Joe
I’ve built many rods (though not nearly as many as Joe!), and I can assure you how easy it is to totally mess one up (did it today!!). I’d suggest starting on a kit from H&H and work your way up to a Sage. You don’t need anything fancy to build one, just lots of time, patience, and practice. Plus, by the time you reach Sage level, I’d think you’d go for the best guides, grip and reel seat you could get!
Double on Joe’s and Betty’s feedback. Consider a Dan Craft blank for a smudge over half the cost. TERRIFIC blanks. And Dan can help you pick out exactly what you want for the blank line and components as well. There are a lot of blanks on the market for the $125 or less mark. You might do yourself justice to look into those first. Unless you are set on the Sage (nothing wrong with them), you can get comparable performance for less money. That is definitely a consideration for your first build. It will fish fine, but may or may not be perfect aesthetically.
Batson blanks are a great bargain, too.
I would second the Rainshadow recommendation …
The RX7 for a med-fast - the four-piece models are between $87-106.
The RX8 for an extra-fast - the four-piece models are between $111-140.
Get assistance, but pick the components and don’t do a kit. These blanks are an exceptional value and make for a great rod for any experience level.
As far as equipment, I build for a living and still do EVERY rod by hand. I do use a dryer when using heavier rod finishes, but with urethane (Permagloss) there is no need - turn by hand for 5 minutes. I would highly recommend you use Permagloss on a fly rod - hard as nails, flexible as all get out, no yellowing, extremely thin and light and no mixing (one part). You can’t screw up, just don’t spend too much time sniffing the stuff or you may end up naked, at the mall, and unsure how you got there. LOL
Jim -
Tampa Jim,
Where do you get your rx8 blanks? I paid a lot more than that for a rx8+.
RX8 and RX8+ are two different animals. The RX7+ and RX8+ are manufactured in the US by a VERY popular manufacturer FOR Batson. The PLUS (+) is the indicator of the US manufacturing by the OEM source.
Schneiders has some RX8 and RX7 blanks on clearance right now. RX8 under $90 and the RX7 for around 50. Not a huge selection, but a good price.
My favorite 2 rods are a DanCraft Sig V (old model) 8’3" 3/4 weight and a Rainshadow RX8 6’6" 2 weight. They are both outstanding rods. For the record, I picked up the RX8 on sale for $15 shipped :shock: to my door. One of the best rods I’ve ever had. Maybe I’ll show them to you at the Missouri FishIn… 
And the down side of that is…??? :shock: Gotta order me some of that stuff right away. After all, I’m a product of the 60’s.
Sign me,
Joseph the Lightheaded
Joe, we have to meet someday. Twisted minds think alike…
Seems people always remember us twisted folks. I demonstrated my craziness awhile ago by posting pictures of fish caught with a spinning rod on the Code of Conduct thread in Sound Off. Wait till Doug sees that one! :lol:
LOL! I’m going to have a spinning rod at the FishIn, too. :shock: But it is a 9’ 4-8 lb rod, so it will be sort of camoflaged. Except for the funny reel on it…
Anyway, I may or may not make it out of there in 1 piece.
My fishing partner does all the rod repairs for a large urban tackle shop.
He swears by the Cabela’s finish, the stuff in the little packets
It’s all he uses.
raw,
I have built my fair share of rods. The last two that I did were kits from Cabela’s. Their kits are indeed complete. I decided to get a couple of “accessories” though. I like wood reel seats and got the rosewood burl, rather than usinig the composite seats that came in the kit. The single foot line guides that come in the kits are what I prefer and are of good quality. I like their rod finish. It’s premeasured and easy to mix and use. The same is true for for the epoxy they send along to use on the tip top. I like U-40 adhesive for putting the reel seat together and the cork handle on, so I got that as another “accessory” a while back. It keeps well and the 4 oz. size is plenty to do quite a few rods. I also use an adhesive called pliobond to position the line guides as well as to protect the blank from abrasions. You can find it in most hardware stores. The kit comes with Gudebrod thread, again good quality and good quality cork handles. You’ll want to go to the web site for the brand of rod you choose to get their recommended spacing for the line guides. The Cabela’s spacing is more “generic.”
Building a Sage rod is no different than building a less expensive one. The steps, procedures, etc. are all about the same. It’s just more expensive. If you mess it up, it is a more expensive mistake. If you take your time, do “dry runs” to be sure you are ready to proceed, and ask for help if you have a concern, you’ll do fine. Make your decision based on what you want to fish with when you’re finished. Good luck…
Just finished this Cabela’s Premium Kit with a St. Croix SCIV Graphite 8’ 6" 4 wt.
:lol: Came out good. Used Flex Coat though.
Learning on a Sage blank? Wow. That takes guts. I highly recommend some practice first. You could go to Wal-Mart and purchase an Arrow. It is shiny, black, and about the size of a fly rod…but about $1.65. Wally also sells tip tops and double foot wire fly rod guides cheap. I would practice wrapping on guides and gluing on something cheap before doing it on a Sage blank. I bought (3) 6’-6" 2wt blanks on sale for $20 each. I have three 9’ three piece 5wt COMPLETE kits I paid $37.50 apiece for. Guess I like three’s.
Just fyi
Not to be nosey, but where did you get those complete kits for only $37.50? Are they still available? Sounds like nice Christmas presents for beginner fly fishers, and would keep me in chains for awhile at the bench! (I just love that sort of bondage). LOL
Joe
Testing new camera. 9’ 9 WT. RX 8