I have been using Trondak u40 rod finish (two coat epoxy) and bubbles have been a problem. These are minute bubbles, but I am picky. It seems like the air in the threads caused the bubbles, so I used color preserver on the last rod and it seemed to minimize the problem. I don’t want to use cp on the rod I’m doing now. Any advise?
Greg
I read somewhere that if you pour the epoxy onto a clean piece of aluminum foil after mixing, then blow across the surface, that the bubbles will rise to the surface and dispense. I’ve tried it with Flex Coat and find it to be true. Can’t imagine the Trondak u40 being much different. I do know that the thicker the mixture, the more difficult it is to get rid of bubbles.
Hope this helps.
Joe
If the bubbles are coming from air entrapped when mixing the method Joe described will help.
If they are comming from air trapped in the thread I would try applying a very thin coat of epoxy and heating it with a heat gun or hair drayer while rotating the rod. This will thin the finish to the consistancy of water and allow it to penetrate more easily.
A second top coat should complete the application.
Use aluminum foil, thin coats and watch your application brush. You might try using a spatula of some sort to help. A cut up credit card will work nicely for a spatula if you need one. I had problems with bubbles and found my brush was a large part of the problem.
I learned the bubbles can sometimes come from impurites in the thread. All the care in the world during mixing will not solve the problem in this case.
What I do now is mix 1 part A, 1 part B, and 1 part Denatured Alcohol. This produces a very thin mix. I apply a very thin coat to lock the thread impurities into the thread.
The second coat goes on as directed. This eliminated all the bubble problems I used to have. Believe me I was the bubble king at one time!
Yes, I do pour the mixed epoxy onto foil to let the bubbles from mixing out. The thin coat just wetting the threads sounds like a good idea, using epoxy instead of cp, then two more thin coats of epoxy. I like the look of a light coat of epoxy, just enough to cover the threads and flow out smoothly. The cut up credit card has worked well for me. I apply and scrape off the extra epoxy with it, and it keeps my wife from overspending.
Greg
You can’t heat LS Supreme, it has an extremely low boiling point and will make a jillion bubbles. Also you cannot use solvents to thin it, it will not behave properly. It is great finish, but you have to understand how to use it.
Apply a generous amount to allow it to penetrate fully, after the wrap is well soaked - remove almost all the finish via the brush. This will leave a very thin coat with the thread texture still showing.
Allow it to dry for 18-24 hours and then go back and apply the final coat to the thickness desired.
You are getting your bubbles most likely from air trapped in the threads, not the mixing. By applying a thin layer first, the air can easily escape AND the thread is now sealed so you aren’t facing the same issue with the heavier second coat.
You should be mixing gently, but thoroughly, and then pouring it out onto a thin surface to keep it from setting up quickly and to allow the air from mixing to escape.
You have the right finish and it doesn’t need heat or chemicals, just a better technique.
TJ -
Now that is cool stuff TJ
There is alot of good suggestions mentioned already, I Mix my epoxy on aluminum foil then I take a straw and blow on it to remove bubbles. I then aply a light coat of finish on the threads wait a couple minutes then blow on the finish with my trust straw That usually pops all bubble that came from the thread.
I have noticed that a warm room helps the bubbles to rise out of the epoxy anything warmer than 70 should be good.
TampaJim, that’s good to hear. Sounds like you’ve figured out the LS Supreme. Thanks for your help.
Greg