I have lots of thread bobbins…most work fine, but 3 of them tend to fray and break 8/0 and finer threads. The ID’s of the barrels of these bobbins are pretty small. I’m thinking about being able to polish the inside surface of the barrels to get rid of any burrs that might be in there somewhere. Whatever’s snagging the thread isn’t at either end of these barrels. Is there any sort of a thread, wire, chenille, etc. that’s impregnated with or coated with an abrasive of some sort?
Just a thought, if the barrels are anything but ceramic, whatever you do to fix them will be very temporary. I have gone to all ceramic inserts or actual tips and I’ve been using several different models for years now without any problems. Bite the bullet, get rid of those metal tips and get the ceramics, you won’t be sorry you did.
Just my opinion. I tie almost daily year 'round so they get a lot of hard use.
I second the ceramic bobbins. The others seem like such a good deal because they are so much cheaper , but cheaper is what you get. Get a couple of Griffin ceramics or other good quality brand. When your tying a midge and the thread just seems to break for no apparent reason it sure makes you take a close look at your bobbins. The investment is well worth one less headache.
My only complaint with the ceramic bobbins is that the tip is thicker. I think mine is a griffin, but I can’t swear to it. It gets difficult to tie in the gape on size 14 and below hooks.
Is there a brand, not too expensive, with a thinner barrel? Of course, with my grace, thinner may not be better.
One benefit of the cheap, metal bobbin holders, if you wear one out, throw it away and buy another one.
it’s easy to polish them and it only takes a minute. Get your drill out, use a very fine bit (much thinner then the bobbin), twist on (dub) steel wool to the bit. It’s goes on easily. next polish away!
it’s easy to polish them and it only takes a minute. Get your drill out, use a very fine bit (much thinner then the bobbin), twist on (dub) steel wool to the bit. It’s goes on easily. next polish away! I have even made a dubbing brush with steel wool and done it by hand.
check with a welder or auto shop. there are files small enough to clean the tips on welders and they work wonders to clean bobbins or to (more likely) take the little burrs off from the manufacturing process. They even come in different diameters, in small increments, so that you can work your way up to the proper file size.
I have been using metal tubed bobbins for years with no problems although the only one I’ll use is a Matterelli. I still have my first one that has over 20 years of service.
ONCE, I suspected I had an issue with one of them and if I had to guess, I would almost guarantee it was at the tip. I got out the finest polishing point I could get for my Dremel, loaded it up with rouge and tried my best to jamb that point down the tube with the tool humming. If I didn’t have a Dremel tool I would have used some high quality cream silver polish and a Q-Tip.
I don’t know if I had a problem or not, but the bobbin is fine now. When it comes to getting a high polish on a bobbin tube, I really wouldn’t try anything as coarse as a file, sandpaper or steel wool. It may seem like it is smooth, but when you are talking about the tiny fibers that are part of a strand of 8/0 thread, the question is whether it is smooth enough.
Just an FYI, I believe the Tiemco bobbins Normand posted the link to have the nice thin ceramic tubes you are after. I’ve eyed them many times but I am addicted to the Long Tube Matterelli metal bobbins and I have WAY too many bobbins at this point to start switching over.
I also prefer that thinner tube and finer barrel of these TMC’s. I have a few of them and I typically tie #18’s to #22’s for my little spring creek guys.
YEA !!! go with all ceramics for the thread bobins and ust your all metal ones fer wire… when me first bobin started freyin thread i bought a ceramic which wasnt but about 2$ more than a all metal one, then i got more ceramic bobins… i just use the cheap metal ones i started out tying with for wire which works just fine fer that…
I was once told that you could polish the inside of your bobbin using Kevlar thread, I have never used it but it make since, the stuff won’t break and will groove a bobbin. Might be worth a try. also good for spinning hair and flies for big toothy critters.
Once a bobbin becomes a “bad boy” and starts cutting thread on a regular basis, switch them over to hold fine wire, oval tinsel or lead. Bobbins are cheap enough, even for me, that I just order a couple of new one with a ceramic tip. Most of my plain metal tube bobbins have become wire holders over the years. 8T
I appreciate all the responses received. 3 bobbins just changed job title from thread to wire duty. Ordered new Tiemco ceramic bobbins. I love new STUFF! PRM
I bought a $45 TMC bobbin last year and it fits nicely in my hand and is wonderful to work with - this bobbin however will only work without snapping the thread on Big Fly thread. It is a metal tube - I bought a ceramic tube one, and the bobbin itself is too long for my hand; I then spotted a smaller ceramic tubed bobbin that works well and is shorter ( but still a little long for my hand) for only $15.
My daily use bobbins are all metal. I have a Tiemco ceramic, but it stays loaded with black 8/0 only since it’s a pain to thread once it gets wax build-up. I can switch threads on my metal tube bobbins in seconds just sucking the thread through;-) I have gotten a few cheaper metal bobbins that broke thread over the years…they in turn became utility/material bobbins. But in the end, they most often don’t give me problems. Ut may be that I’m just too stubborn and cheap tobuy ceramic though.
I second everyone who has mentioned the Tiemco bobbins. I’ve tyed with the same one for about eight years now with no problems at all. That bobbin has literally tied thousands and thousands of flies. I prefer the “curved” model as the thread comes off the spool “inline”.
If you’re looking to go ceramic, I don’t think you could go wrong with the Tiemco.