Hey guys.
I use to add weight to my soft hackles. Beads or lead wire. Partridge series mainly, which are 90% of my softs.
The original patterns do not show lead nor any weight.
The reason is that I love to use foating lines almost all the time, and usually a relativelly fast current obligates me to go down fast, or deep waters to put the fly where the trout are. A sink tip is not the best option of course.
Do you use weight on softhackles?
R.
Slip a bead on the tippet above the fly. Brass or Tungston depending on what you want the sink rate to be. Very simple. Very effective.
It also helps to target stupid trout. Works for me.
I use weight for some soft hackles. When I do I use .015 lead free wire. It is environmentally sound and I can layer it to provide bulk. It really depends on the pattern and how and where I’m going to fish it. I would think weight would be most appropriate in still water or in fast moving water (as you indicated).
I don’t usually like to fish softhackles too deep so, if I want to get one down I’ll either use a beadhead, wire body or combination of both
Regards,
Scott
[b]There is no ‘best’ way to add weight to softhackles.
If you cast up-stream, the flies have a chance to sink deeper.
If you use hooks with a heavier guage wire this is another way.
Tie flies with wire bodies is another:-
I have used UTC fine and Xtra fine.
Here is an old favourite ‘wired up’.
I have never been very keen on beads, unless they are quite small.
You’ll notice the beads the beads are very small.
I have used Varivas hooks but they are not crucial.[/b]
You could also use Quick Descent dubbing for the body.
Another good way is to tie your fly on a hook the next size up. So, tie a size 14 proportioned fly on a size 12 hook (short body, smaller hackle, etc). This will leave a fair amount of hook out the back end, but that bare hook adds weight and cuts through the water nicely. As Donald mentioned, cast upstream, and use heavier gage wire.
I use beads with the hackle between the bead and the hook eye. Note Donald Nicholson’s photos where the “bump” is behind the hackle causing it to flare. That’s what i do with a bead.
[b]My attitude to beads on spiders (softhackles) is purely a personal thing.
The (usually) small thorax I put on some spiders is because I think they
need it for appearances sake. The same applies to using a bead on a
spider, in many cases the bead is too much for that particular pattern.
I tie flies that appeal to me visually, I do not know whether it makes much
difference to the fish, here in Scotland that means trout.
I do not need to use a thorax to set the angle of the hackle.
Chosing the hackle and winding it on the hook is how I try to get the angle
right. I did not say ‘do not use beads’, I said ‘I am not very keen on beads’
for the reasons stated above and anyone who wants to use beads in any
way they like, is ok with me. Nothing is carved in stone, either ‘to do’ or
‘not to do’ in fly dressing. I just have this feeling that using beads has to be
done with discrimination. Just a very personal attitude.
I do use beads in many ways, here are a few :-
http://donaldnicolson.webplus.net/page12.html
http://donaldnicolson.webplus.net/page51.html
http://donaldnicolson.webplus.net/page6.html
By the way, my name is spelled Nicolson. [/b]
I don’t. Small split shot - 8" up.
A weighted poly leader, such as those sold by AirFlo - could be an answer as well if one is simply swinging downstream.
I am tending more towards a hybrid of Donald Nicolson and Steve. I tend to not weight soft hackles that I’m tying now, but I do tie weighted flies to fish as a bottom dropper to take a cast down, if desired. That way the unweighted flies are taken deeper into the water profile but they are still light enough in weight to move and dance more naturally, like an actual “bug”.
Leo D. put me onto some hooks that mean I don’t have to pay the extreme prices for Varivas hooks that Donald uses. They are exactly the same, but the seem to be close enough.
I still need to tie more flies for Saturday.
Ed
P.S. Leo, I’ve got your 37160’s bagged for you. I’ll try to get by the shop on Wednesday evening.
I prefer beads. But that is just me. Easier to tie. Stay on better. Strengthens the fly. Looks more buggy. But it depends on how I’m fishing as to what fly i use. I tend not to use wire ribbing except for zebra midges.
You can use Tungsten Beads. Wire body is good to. Myself, I use a Type II or Type III wet Cell full sink line and just adjust leader length. And by leader, I mean a straight piece of Fluorocarbon. Usually 4 feet it good. This way, I can put the fly anywhere I want…even sub surface when needed.
Lots of my spiders are tied with wire bodies, another approach I use id to use a furled leader made from Kevlar. Untreated it goes sinks quite fast.
Cheers,
Alan.
I trail my soft hackle patterns 24 inches behind a bead head nymph. I jokingly call my weighted patterns “soft hackle delivery flies” since I am trying to get the SH down in quick current. I do not like to weight the SH patterns as I feel it messes with their zip and vitality. I know that is likely an erroneous thought but after many years it is hard for me to break my process.
Lots of other great responses - thanks to all for your perspectives.
Take care
Try using flat lead tape. Just cut a very thin strip and wrap it on. Adds weight without bulk. Here is a place, speaking bulk, you can buy it in large quantities. And no, I’m not associated with these people:
http://www.tapecase.com/p.712.201/3m-420-3m-lead-foil-tape.aspx
That is my thought too. Plus by using your idea, or my sinking line idea, that fly can be fished in any zone, were as, by weighting it you are limited.
Gaeronf, I’m with you. Lead tape is the way to go to keep a slim body.
I very seldom weight soft hackle flies. When I really have to, I use the lead foil from the tops of champagne bottles. As a non drinker, I have friends who save it for me. The only disadvantage is the lack of adhesive backing.
REE
I’m with REE on this one, once in a while I will coat the leader with snake river mud but thats it…