Beginner question - matching bug to fly...

Okay, since I?m a beginner let me see if I got this right. When I first get to the trout stream I want to look around for a while to see if I see any trout rising or if I can see any of them in holding places. I then look around on the surface for bugs and seine a few to get a closer look. I can also wade out and kick some rocks around and seine downstream to see what I get. Now I got some bugs in some stage of their lifecycle.

How do I relate the bug in my hand to a fly in my fly box. I know I look at size 1st then color but what next. The fly?s I buy have names like Bead Head American Pheasant Tail is there somewhere I can look to see the real bug it?s supposed to look like

Thanks for helping another beginner.

KCMark:

The simplest thing to do is use your eyes and forget the names. If what you have in your fly box looks like the real bug you see; use it.

Add to that some flies are called EHC, BWO, Pmd,etc etc.

We Newbies just have to learn the names of the flies and which bug they are supposed to represent. No way around it that I can see. :slight_smile:

Try here
http://www.flyanglersonline.com/features/nqento/

An older book, Art Flick’s “Steamside Guide” has pictures of flys and the bugs they represent side by side
It’s eastern hatches, drys, and mostly mayflys.
Still it might be the kind of thing you’re looking for.

Thanks for the replies. The link from Castwell looks like a good start. I’ll also lookup the book dudley recommended.

Thanks again.

True story. Last fall 5 if us were fishing almost side by side.
One in the center of the group was catching fish almost every other cast. I asked him what he was using and he said “I tied a piece of carpet to a hook last nite” It didn’t look like much to me but the fish loved it.

TonyC.

KCMARK,
If and when you end up at Tanycomo (and you will ,trust me) avoid overtly making any show of kicking or shoving any rocks or the bottom around. First of all you will mostly find scuds, sculpins and some shrimp. If the warden sees you doing this he will assume that you are engaging in the ever popular “Tanycomo two step” :shock: . Its what the cheaters do when they cant figure out how to catch fish.
Kick up a bit of the bottom and hold your line in hand and let the fly drift in the mud just kicked up.
Bingo, fish on.
To the best of my knowledge it’ll cost ya.
Seining wont cost you anything. See ya there.
Perch

Actually it will not cost you anything other than a little bit of respect from fellow anglers. To some people you will be scum of the earth.I personally don’t like it but, it’s not illegal so I can’t do anything about it.They call it shuffling and in some states it is illegal.I think with the amount of people moving around you could probably seine and get enough samples without stirring up the bottom yourself.
Good Luck
Rich

Tony, Thanks I needed that!
Doug :lol: :lol: :lol:

Check out the foloowing web site…
http://www.westfly.com/patterns/patterns.htm

Look through the ‘pattern’ and ‘entomology’ pull down menu’s. You will find flies, pictures of bugs and patterns cross referenced by common names and scientific names. Under the general names, such as ‘bluewing olive patterns’ you will find a ‘FlyMatch’ button that will make suggestions for what pattern to use for a particular bug. Also include tips on tactics and how to fish a particular pattern. A really good resource.

KCMark,

The above advice is all good. Once you’re on the stream you’ll want to match whatever you see with the closest thing in your fly box. But if you don’t have an exact match… then what?

Many folks (and I’m one of them) think that the most important features are size, profile, and color (in that order). As a case in point there have been a lot of Missouri fish caught on Cracklebacks and they don’t imitate anything that I know of. Another thing to consider is whether it’s fast or slow water.

You can get a lot of mileage out of generic patterns like the Adams (for mayflies) and Elk Wing Caddis (for caddis) to be able to fish most hatches with confidence.

For someone just starting out I’d recommend a neutral buggy looking fly like an Adams in sizes 20, 18, 16, 14, and 12 to imitate mayflies in moving water. To fish slow moving water where fish can get a better look at the fly a Parachute Adams in the same size ranges, or if you want to spice things up, substitute a tan body Sparkle Dun in the same sizes for the Parachute Adams. (In my opinion the Sparkle Dun is more versatile and will stand up to more fish before it falls apart, but it may be a little harder to find in tackle shops out there.)

For fast water, you’ll want something that will float like a cork and be visible to you, so a fly like a Royal Wulff or Ausable Wulff in sizes 18, 16, 14 and 12 might be a good thing to have. The white wings make them easy to see and trout ususally don’t have time to study them to hard as they flash overhead.

For caddis a bunch of neutral looking Tan Elk Hair Caddis in sizes 18, 16, 14 and 12 would be good in fast or slow water.

So if you see a fly coming off that you don’t have an exact match for, figure out if it’s a caddis or a mayfly. If it’s a caddis (usually an erratic flier with “buzzy” looking wings), pick a Tan Caddis in the closest size. If it’s a mayfly, go with the Royal or Ausable Wulf in fast water, the Adams in moving water, and the Parachute Adams or Sparkle Dun in slow water.

And for those times when you don’t see anything hatching, or if the trout aren’t responding to your dries, swinging a wet fly like a Partridge and Orange Soft Hackle by casting across stream and letting it swing downstream may get you some fish. They imitate a lot of things like emerging mayflies and caddis. A couple in sizes 16 and 14 would be good.

A couple of Muddler Minnows (or black Marabou Muddlers) in 12 and 10 would be a wise investment for pools when there isn’t anything hatching, fished across stream and swung below you the same way you fish the soft hackles. These will imitate sculpins, though you could also grease them up with flotant and fish them as “grasshoppers” too in a pinch.

Over time you’ll want to add more specific patterns to match hatches. A good idea would be to get a Hatch chart for your local water and recommendations from your local shop. That way you’ll know what to expect, and can do some research to get ready including here at FAOL and in books like Hatches II by Caucci … for example you might find there is a size 16 Blue Wing Olive hatch in mid June, so in addition to having some 14 BWO’s you might also have some 14 Rusty Spinners to imitate the same insect in spinner fall and some 14 Pheasant Tail Nymphs to imitate its nymphal form since you’ll know the nymphs will be active prior to the hatch.

The hatch charts will often tell you the approximate time of day of the hatch, and with a little research may also tell you whether they’ll typically be found in riffles, or pools. All these things will help you to be at the right spot as well as the right time. They’ll also alert you to hatches outside of the size ranges covered by your Adams and Elk Hair Caddis like Tricos, which are very small, and green drakes and some stone flies that can be big honkers so you can be ready for them too.

I hope this helps. The whole hatch thing can be very intimidating at first, but you really don’t to learn Latin, The main thing to recap is, get some hatch charts to know what to expect when and where you are going to fish, and have back up plan with a very basic assortment of flies that will match in size and profile 80-90% of the hatches you’re likely to run into.

Good luck!

Peregrines

Wow :smiley: what great information.

kengore, the site link you sent is very helpfule for study. thanks

peregrines, thanks for the suggestions. This will work for how to fill my first fly box and get me started.

I appreciate all the information and enjoy just surfing this site.

Mark

Hey KCMark,

I came across some more info that may be useful to you. Sorry I had trouble with the “clickable” URLs, but you can cut and paste in your browser.

For a trout fly fishing organization in KC that might be good to check out, and has a lot of links and info that might be helpful:

http://www.geocities.com/kcmtfa/index.htm

For fishing reports and hatch info on the Roaring River:

http://missouritrout.com/timsflyshop/report.html

For a list of links to Missouri fishing conditions, fishing reports, weather, water flow etc.

http://missouritrout.com/weather.html

Here?s a Hatch Chart for Montauk State Park, Current River with a ton of useful info.

http://www.missouriscenicrivers.com/hatchchart.html

This Montauk Hatch Chart chart will give you a general idea of what might be hatching on the waters you fish during the season, so you can plan a budget to add to all those Adams. (I fish mostly in the Northeast and these hatches, and when they occur, pretty much correspond to the ones I fish, and when I fish in the Adirondacks in upstate NY the hatches occur in the same order, but about 3 weeks later.) Note that the time of day of hatches typically take place are listed too.

Taking the first entry, Little Blue Wing Olives (sizes 16, 18,and 20), you?ll see that they typically start hatching in the early afternoon. Remember they?ll start as Nymphs, go to Emergers, then Duns, then Spinners. The hatch time of early afternoon refers to the Duns.

Searching here at FAOL and doing a Google on Baetis or Blue Wing Olives you?ll see that you can imitate the nymphs with a Bead Head Pheasant Tail Nymph, or a regular Pheasant Tail Nymph. There are a bunch of Baetis emerger patterns out there (but since you?re just starting out you could use an unweighted Pheasant Tail with some dry fly floatant, or one of your Soft Hackles). For a Blue Wing Olive (BWO) Dun you can use a ?regular? BWO, a BWO Sparkle Dun, BWO Comparadun etc. For the Spinner stage the Rusty Spinner is a great imitation. So for a Baetis Hatch if you get on the water in the late morning before the hatch starts, you could fish a Pheasant Tail Nymph until you start seeing the duns starting to emerge. If the fish aren?t rising and you’re not getting any action on the nymphs, switch to a Soft Hackle to imitate the emerger. If fish start rising switch to the BWO dries. And as it gets later in the day if the fish are still rising but you?ve stopped getting hits, look at the water to see if there are spinners? (Baetis spinners often seem to start falling while the Duns are still hatching). Sometimes switching to a Rusty Spinner solves that problem.

Anyway this is a long winded example of how you can put together a plan to fish a whole day for a specific ?hatch? that may only last a little while in any given day. Sometimes you might have days where there is likely to be a hatch of one thing in the morning and another in the afternoon (Or several at the same time time) And by Googling the different hatches you?ll often get info on the types of water they prefer. Baetis and other BWOs are very common countrywide and are one of the most important hatches. They occur in many different sizes and different times throughout the season because they?re actually many different species all imitated by the same patterns. They seem to be especially fond of spring creeks and at the tails of pools.

Also, looking at the chart, you?ll see that the first hatches of the year listed are for the Early Black and Early Brown Stone Flies in March and April so you may want to get some of those first. And since they?re both very dark and have a different profile then mayflies and caddis you?d be wise to pick up a few of each in the sizes listed if you plan to be on the water at that time of year.

Let us know how you make out,and feel free to ask any questions.
Best regards, peregrines