In a two fly nymph rig, attaching the second fly to the hook shank of the first, which fly do you consider the anchor fly? Is it the fly you tie as the second nymph nearest the bottom of the steam?
In a two fly rig, the anchor fly is the first (usually heavily weighted) fly tied to the tippet to which, a lighter pattern is tied - off the eye or bend:
This is one of my favorite anchor patterns for heavy flows in the Spring:
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](http://s305.photobucket.com/user/planettrout/media/TROUT LEGEND/SENICEHARE-1-_zps22b3aeef.jpg.html)
HARE’S ICE ANCHOR BUG - TroutLegend J Competition Hook, #8
This is one version/diagram of the rigging:
[http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NOmVdv-0Ndg/VL75ZY5yMnI/AAAAAAAAHY4/G6KdnlKZ-t0/s1600/adjnymphrig.png
P](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NOmVdv-0Ndg/VL75ZY5yMnI/AAAAAAAAHY4/G6KdnlKZ-t0/s1600/adjnymphrig.png)T/TB
Here in Michigan putting the weighted fly below the other fly without a dropper line to the upper fly would be legally considered a snagging rig. Even if that is not your intention you could be ticketed.
The first fly, tied to the tippet is my anchor. My Gold steak and eggs thread is my best example. Skittle is my anchor.
My inderstanding is that the anchor fly is the heaviest fly, regardless of it’s position.
I like a pattern tied on a 1/80 to 1/132 oz. jig hook. A prince nymph, blue assassin, rainbow warrior all work good where I primarily fish for trout. The jig doesn’t seem to snag as many roots and limbs as a bead head pattern. I have had the jig head really get hammered on a good float.
On the tailwaters I fish in MT, first fly is weighted and the trailer, usually a Zebra nymph, may have a brass bead, or glass (neither of which provide much weight since the fly is usually a #20). In the spring, they’re usually tied with a bright pink or orange bead
Firebead Scud
Firebead Ray Charles Softhackle
same fly with UV Ice dub instead of ostrich
Bloom’s Weight Fly
Later in the year, before the weed hatch, if I’m really desperate to catch something and dries just won’t bring them up, I’ll use something a bit more “subdued”
Amex
Bloom’s Weight Fly Dark (pretty much a Grape Slushy on steroids)
With current flows on these rivers, it usually takes some extra weight to get the flies down to the fish, so I’ll add whatever split-shot is necessary.
Regards,
Scott
Jim,
Good to know. Thanks.
Ed
Just happened to be reading … http://troutbitten.com/2016/03/18/tags-and-trailers/ … earlier today. Thought he had some interesting thoughts on rigging multiple nymphs that tie into this subject. For what it’s worth, he says “The heaviest fly in my rig is … the anchor”.
By placing the heavier or anchor fly first, with the lighter or unweighted fly off the bend, it allows the dropper fly to drift more freely. Its drift will vary in depth as it travels dependant on the length of the dropper, often rising above the anchor.
If you want both or all (Colorado allows 3 flies) patterns to be at the same depth (moving water), make the anchor fly the closet to your leader. If you want one or more flies to ride higher in the water column, make the anchor fly the farthest from your leader. Both techniques work in different situations.
Although I don’t fish with two subsurface flies, this is what I have always understood to be the method and the reasoning behind it.
Buoyancy of the trailing fly, length of tippet between dropper and anchor, current speed, and conflicting currents all have an impact on where the dropper will ride in the water column. Generally it is just a few inches above the anchor if any.There are times when that is the perfect location for the dropper.