I got some of this the other day when I was looking for some Nickel Silver Blueing, and figured what the heck, I would try it on the “rock rash” on my Ross reel, and Voila - it looks like new. Most Blueing/blackening products are for NS only, or actually steel, but this one is for aluminum and such. Don’t know how long it will last, but it sure looks perty now.
Is this the stuff you are talking about?
http://www.jtbuckonline.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=559
Larry —sagefisher—
Exactly! But you might look at it locally, at a gun shop or Big Box store, so you don’t have to pay shipping. My store didn’t have the gloss, though, just the black, which is great for the Ross, but not shiny reels.
Could this be used to turn shiny tippet rings to dull black?
Gemrod
Should work on a Pflueger Medalist shouldn’t it???
if ya apply the black/blueing to the metal when the metal is heated to about 350 or 400 deg. it works much better… do it twice… after the 2nd coat rub the metal with some oil and the colour will last a good while…
I would think it might work on the tippet rings and the Pflueger. I even put it on my aluminum windows in my trailer.
Bugman,
Somehow the idea of heating up my reel (like maybe in a 400 degree oven? or hitting it with a blow torch) just doesn’t appeal to me. They usually have sealed bearings and or a sealed drag system. I suspect 300 to 400 degrees of heat would damage them. Not to mention any plastic components that the real may have.
I think cold bluing with this stuff is the way I will go.
Larry —sagefisher—
I’m thinking this stuff is more like a marking pen…or say paint…do you all think it is like cold bluing?
This seems to be more their cold bluing product…
No, I don’t think it will replace cold blueing, but that won’t work on aluminum.
That brings up something…
I’ve been thinking of picking up a beater Pflueger Medalist…taking it apart and stripping the paint so it’s 100% aluminum…
Good idea…Bad idea???
I’m not thinking of collectability.
Just a suggestion ducksterman, but be careful how you strip aluminium because caustics will
attack the aluminium and shrink/dissolve it
eventually. Learned the hard way.
MontanaMoose
MM …are you saying the stripping process will do that to the aluminum…or that the stripped aluminum will be more susceptible to caustics?
Anyone have a suggestion for a good stripper?
Stage name Bambi, um nevermind.
Not sure how well bare aluminum will work. Most is at least anodized.
Is the Medalist aluminum anodized…I suspect not but really don’t know?
Sorry ducksterman, I was outside all day…well if you’re talking stripping the Medalist, I’d use a
mild stripper and stay with it…I wouldn’t leave it on for long. A harsh stripper could alter the
dimensions, especially a caustic stripper as mentioned if left on for a long time. The various stripping
chemicals are marked as such if’n they are. Once stripped, polished and sealed it wouldn’t be any more
susceptible to caustics than it would originally but then there’s no reason for the reel to be around caustics anyway.
Also, I’d say the Medalists are painted and since they are, herefishy’s Super Black would work good to freshen a Medalist up in my opinion. I mean I don’t see why not, but I haven’t done that…thought about it but also like the mojo of the past owners having worn the edges down, chipped some paint here and there.
All that being said, I do think it would be cool to strip one out, polish it and seal it with clear just to see how long it lasts and the comments it might bring. Careful once again though, aluminum isn’t that easy to polish in certain grades and I suspect Medalists are what machinists refer to as a ‘gummy’ metal. It actually wants to smear so to speak under the buffing wheel if it’s a softer alloy. Beyond that, heck, go for it ducksterman ! Man, I hope some of this helps.
Cheers,
MontanaMoose