Some of the bobbins I use are lighter weight than I would like. In general, I would observe, this is the case when plastic balls are used for the “ears” rather than some kind of metal.
Any tips on adding weight to these light-weight bobbins?
Peter F
Peter,
I have read that many put split shot into the empty hole in the middle of the spool of thread. I have added wraps of sticky lead tape to the arms (for lack of a better word) of the bobbin for a more permanent solution.
Joe
Joe… Both of those are great ideas. I thought about wrapping lead around the arms, and I should that. But the idea of inserting lead (perhaps a long lead sinker like those I used as a kid with a bait casting rod??) inside the spool is an excellent idea! It gets the lead “inside” the hand where it is easily… excuse the pun… handled. But it will still add weight when needed… when the bobbin is hanging.
Peter F.
Peter, if you are going to use lead for the weight, then I would highly recommend putting it inside the spool rather than on the arms of the bobbin where it would be in constant contact with your bare hand. Lead can be asorbed through the skin and is not a substance to taken lightly.
If all you need is a ‘little’ more weight, then the bits of lead in the thread spool is an easy solution. You can use high lead content solder for this if the ratling of split shot becomes too annoying. Does mean that you have to remember to put the lead in each spool when you change thread.
If you reaqlly want to add some ‘weight’ to a bobbin, a large egg sinker can slipped over the tube and ‘crimped’ in place. The center hole in most large egg sinders is usually large enough to fit over the end of the bobbin, but if it’s not, just ream it out with a drill bit. It will slide naturally down to where the arms of the bobbin spread. Add a drop of CA glue under it, and smash it flat with a pair of pliers.
Adds both weight and a convenient ‘thumb tab’ to the bobbin.
A couple of coats of epoxy OVER the lead seals it and stops health hazard worries. (Or, you can wrap it with thread and finish that for a nicer ‘look’ as well).
Good Luck!
Buddy
Hi Peter, Years ago I melted some solder into holes drilled in a piece of wood and then split the wood to remove the lead slug. It seemed to work but I eventually gave it up. Note that Mary Dette, in her DVDs, doesn’t use a bobbin at all. She uses half hitches between operations or uses her hackle pliers clipped onto the free dangling piece of thread.
P.S. Use a Brad Point drill for smooth holes.
water gremlin rubbercore sinkers will work and are readily available anywhere
May I ask why you need the extra weight??? If you are spinning hair and it is needed to hold it tighter do what one big name tyers does–add a halfhitch after each packing. One long time tyer that I know make his bobbins and used ball bearings in place of the plastics. :lol: BILL
A quick temporary weight can be as simple as clipping your forceps to the bobbin , this works on hackle pliers also.
Bill,
That sounds like something fishbum would do. :lol: He’s pretty creative.
Joe
I am asking this in a very sincere fashion. Why would you need or want to weight a bobbin? I tie wet flies with a standard bobbin and have no issues and I tie all my dry flies now adays with out a bobbin. So this is why I am a little confused. Could some one please expand upon this a little more. I just don’t see the reason why.
Andy B
Andy,
Not everyone wants or needs more weight in a bobbin.
The ‘benefit’ is primarily holding power while the bobbin is hanging. You can get by with less thread wraps, things won’t move as easily, you can avoid half hitches in some cases, and for some of us the heavier bobbin feels ‘better’ or more balanced’ in the hand.
It’s a very subjective thing.
I have and use both, but I ALWAYS use my heaviest weighted bobbin on dry flies that use hackle, it seems to really help keep wraps down, especially on the very litle ones…
Good Luck!
Buddy
This was one of the reasons I switched to S&M bobbins; although they probably don’t weigh that much more than a lot of the wire frame types, I never feel the need to add any additional weight. I also like the way they fit in my hand - just my preference.
Regards,
Scott
Thanks for the great tips. I found a related solution that I will report back on, with a picture or two.
The reason I posted the question in the first place is that my preference is for a slightly heavier bobbin than what I get with the plastic-eared bobbins. I like “shorty” bobbins and have not been able to find any with metal ears (which would give them the weight I am looking for.)
The reason I prefer the weight of the metal/brass eared bobbins is:
- hold materials in place with fewer wraps, just by the weight of the hanging bobbin
- I feel a bit more weight in the hand gives me more control. (For me, for example, the light weight cameras now being sold are harder to hold steady than a heavier camera… I think the weight gives your body feedback that helps control the tool).
Peter F.
I am sorry to come along with an afterthought. Here is another way to skin the cat. Traditionally tyers use a clip of some sort to maintain tension when the thread or bobin is released. The clip is mounted on the bench. Then too, Ruben Cross and Tom McNally used spring actuated clothes pins to hold things when they ran out of hands. From what I have read in their books, they give no instructions on how to use one. They must consider it self evident.
Is anyone up for a clothes pin swap? :lol:
Peter, I also like a heavier bobbin. Just makes sense for me, outside of other solution on the bench to hold the bobbin in place - isn’t there a better bobbin available that’l do this?
Tim