I have just come to a conclusion. From now on, for any nymph I tie, size 18 and smaller, I’m only gonna use thread and dubbing (ala Al’s Rat). No ribbing, not tails, no beads, no wing cases, no nothing. I figure by varying the color of the thread and maybe the dubbing I’ll be close enough.
I love tying, generally find it very therapeutic, but found myself using a lot of foul language today when tying some small stuff.
Anyone else use this approach (the simplicity not the foul language)?
Nope I tie #22 Doc Spratleys, gnats, wooly buggers PTN etc all the time and put everything there that should be there.
I do tie almost all of Al Campbell’s too simple flies, that might be a suggestion for you. They only have the bare minimum to start with. A bloodworm is only red thread with a black or brown thread head. There are lots of patterns with using only thread such as a thread ant.
Yes, 20+ flies are tough.
1 – use a magnification light as discussed on another thread
2 – don’t overlook the value of floss or flat waxed nylon
3 – contrasting thread makes fine ribbing on tiny flies. Rod wrapping thread works well for bodies.
4 – Craft stores sell “seed beads” which work for bead head flies
5 – one or two strands of calf tail work well for many patterns
I think I will invest in a magnification light for sure. I use a NorVise and only have the standard jaws - I wonder if that’s part of the problem? Perhaps I should spring for the “fine point conversion” jaws. I do love fishing the small stuff, just not liking tying it right now.
Could also be that tying with poor light at the kitchen table after shoveling a snow drift from the end of the driveway has something to do with my disposition. Perhaps a Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA or 2 might improve my bad attitude. Dang shack nasties, come on spring!
I am tying down to size 26 for a trip to the San Juan River (New Mexico) where small flies are a must. If I feel I need smaller (down to 32), I buy them at one of the fly shops along the river. I use hooded magnifiers similar to this one http://www.amazon.com/hobbytoolsupply-Goldfinger-Jewelry-Magnifier-Headband/dp/B000TT66E6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hpc&qid=1267221241&sr=8-1 although mine does not have the loupe or the lights. I think I bought it at Sears about 30 years ago. Really handy for close work like fly tying or rod building.
After you tie these midges for awhile, it is hard to go back to tying normal flies, like 14 and larger! It is fun to tie these little ones but production goes out the window. You must have lots of patience so hang in there and good luck!
Forgot to add that midge jaws are a must.
I started with size 10 and over time went smaller and smaller. Now I can tie a size 20. How about you go with 14 and 16 for a few dozen, then down to 18 and then 20 will be easier. Maybe you have already done that. I saw a little flying critter the other day and said to myself, “size 28, no way”. It was good for a chuckle.
Paul
@bjames - you’re my hero. I wouldn’t even attempt a 26 right now.
@rockthief
Yeah, I know what you mean about the 28s. Quite frankly it’s hard to believe something that small can draw the attention of a fish, but I guess we’re not meant to understand all of mother nature’s secrets.
I can crank out 16’s and larger like a machine (which I need to as I tie for myself, my dad, my father in law, and my 12 yr old son). At size 18’s I’m generally still fairly efficient, but get to 20’s and my fingers get tied in knots.
what size tippet to people use for such tiny flies?
size 20!
how about a 32, 35 or even a 42! now thats a rant! 
That is a sick sick man…
7X. My first 2 trips to this great tailwater, I was getting many many breakoffs then a guide turned me on to this stuff
I started to net more fish, and I was getting more hookups. Don’t get me wrong, you lose many fish using this size hook and I am still amazed that you catch any if you look at the hook size and gap. Since this is catch and release water below the Navajo Dam, it really doesn’t matter. Most of the fishing is nymphing but occasionally you will come upon a group of risers. Dry flies are the ticket here.
AnW, no hero here, the fish will not hit larger flies and I am too cheap to buy them. When handling these small flies, you drop many. I quickly discovered that you have to go to the bank, sit down and tie one on hoping that if you drop it, it will fall in your lap. Still not always the case.
Ok, I am having trouble with links today. The leader I use is Dai Riki Dynamic 7X
Wow, 35s and 42s. I can’t even imagine - my hair’s grey enough already.
I’ve been using Varivas tippet in 7X. Seems to work pretty well, I guess. But I suppose you’ll have breakoffs with any brand in this size. Might have to try the Dai Riki.
I use 2lb test tippet, it fits in the 22’s and has enough strength to bring in quite large fish. I caught a 24inch rainbow at rocky ford on a #22 griffin gnat without the tippet breaking. That fish jumped three or four times , I couldn’t believe that tiny hook survived.
I tie down to #24’s. And honestly, take a look at the hooks brand-to-brand. They are not consistent. Some brands #24’s don’t look any different than anothers #20. I’ve found, that in many cases, instead of dropping further in hook size, I am able to proportion smaller to tie a smaller fly. I’m able to “minimalize” on a #24 hook to tie most any of the midge patterns I want. Most of my #20-#24’s are tied on straight eye hooks as well…which I much prefer.
Rocky Ford…I miss that place:^)
Size 22 is as small as I have needed to go for the SanJuan (NewMexico), Frying Pan, Blue, Taylor (Colorado), BigHorn (Montana), Green (Utah).
This has been my favorite midge/micro pattern for the past 6 years. I tie it in many different colors in sizes 22-16. Gray has been very good to me here in Colorado, while Chocolate has been my best producer on the San Juan. Red seems to be a universal color and catches fish anywhere. Like the topic of this post it is very simple and easy to tie.
Add micro fibbets or Mallard breast feathers as a tail and you get an instant baetis nymph/emerger.
Whats really fun is going to these famous tail waters where micro flys are the “norm” and dead drifting some of these size 6 Buggers with 1x leaders and pounding the fish. Yes, nymphing these huge flys not stripping them. If anyone asks what the fish are hitting tell them. You know they are calling BULL on you under their breath.
You may have hit part of the nail on the head with the standard jaws on the Nor Vise perhaps not being your best option. I too use a Nor for a lot of my tying. I also have the luxury, (or something else) to have many different vises. Nor does sell a set of midge jaws for your vise. These will help in a couple of ways. What may be the least obvious is simply one of scale, and how very small those larger jaws are making the hook appear. Size 20 and smaller are really small to begin with. The much smaller jaws will help as a matter of perception. You will find that the smaller jaws will immediately make you feel more comfortable or less intimidated by the small size of the hook. The larger jaws can also limit your ease of access to the hook when tying.
Magnification has also been mentioned as well as GOOD lighting. You can’t tie what you can’t see.
Also, another great suggestion of starting with a larger size anytime you tie a new pattern, and tying several (6-12) of that size, going to the next smaller size and so on. The next thing you know you will be amazed at what you are able to tie.
Unlike some tiers who answer the challenge of “how small can I really tie this” (sz 32 for example) I rarely tie below a size 24. But, you can miss a lot of good fish between 20 and 24. So get the jaws, get the magnification, and get the light.
OK, got all that stuff?
Now get tying and in the next couple of months post a picture of a size 24 on here (or smaller) of a fly consisting of more than just thread. I’d really like to see your fly attached to a nice fish!
You can do this, and I can’t wait to see your picture (s).
Tight lines,
George